For the first time in weeks we had to pack up a wet tent in the morning drizzle. We kept to the German side of the Rhein as it had been such a good route thus far, but we were soon plunged into woods, & then a bike 'No-Entry' sign blocked our way. We ignored this (as we usually do), but were soon up to our pedals in mud, as they were logging.
Ten wasted miles later, after going round in circles, we gave up on Germany, taking a car-ferry to France, & soon were on a lovely clean tarmac towpath on the Rhein-Rhone Canal taking us easily to Strasbourg. We stopped to let a Mallard marshall her 9(!) tiddly-tiny ducklings across the path into the Rhein, then crossed back into Germany to camp at Kehl.
Thursday, 12 June 2008
Towns with a past.....
On our way to Colmar, we passed through Neuf Brisach. An enormous ditch surrounded thick octagonal walls, they really didn't want visitors in the days of old Alsace. In 1951 however, French N Brisach & German Breisach were the first European towns to sign a Common Market Agreement, leading to todays EU. What were they thinking of!!!?
Entering woods on the Cycle Route, we were going in the opposite direction to a large enthusiastic group of teenagers taking part in a cross-country running & cycle relay race. Unscathed, we reached Colmar. Many medieval timber-framed houses & public buildings remain. There is also an area referred to twee-ly as 'Little Venice', where a few canals surround the old Fish Market. The steep tiled roofs & gable fronts to the houses lining the canals, we thought, were more reminiscent of Amsterdam then Venice.
There was enough time left in the afternoon to follow a town trail around Breisach. In contrast here, most of the old buildings were destroyed in 1945 by American troops shelling across the Rhein.
Entering woods on the Cycle Route, we were going in the opposite direction to a large enthusiastic group of teenagers taking part in a cross-country running & cycle relay race. Unscathed, we reached Colmar. Many medieval timber-framed houses & public buildings remain. There is also an area referred to twee-ly as 'Little Venice', where a few canals surround the old Fish Market. The steep tiled roofs & gable fronts to the houses lining the canals, we thought, were more reminiscent of Amsterdam then Venice.
There was enough time left in the afternoon to follow a town trail around Breisach. In contrast here, most of the old buildings were destroyed in 1945 by American troops shelling across the Rhein.
Wednesday, 4 June 2008
Downhill all the way from here.....?
We now choose to cross the Rhine into Germany & follow the E. bank, as on this side there is an unsurfaced but excellent cycle path right along the waters edge, separated by beech & oak woods from any development. No large vessels use this part of the Rhein, as there are electricity generating barrages across. A few yachts tack passed, & rather unsettlingly, a German Army Unit is practising with amphibious vehicles.
We camp in an orchard in the village of Hochstetten. A pair of Greater Spotted Woodpeckers pick ants off an ash tree trunk by our tent. We are stayinfg here 2 nights as tomorrow we are to cycle across the bridge at nearby Breisach to reach the French town of Colmar, another of those 'Thousand Places to see before you die'.
We are blogging in the local library for free!!!
We camp in an orchard in the village of Hochstetten. A pair of Greater Spotted Woodpeckers pick ants off an ash tree trunk by our tent. We are stayinfg here 2 nights as tomorrow we are to cycle across the bridge at nearby Breisach to reach the French town of Colmar, another of those 'Thousand Places to see before you die'.
We are blogging in the local library for free!!!
Last of the Lakes....
We cycled the S. shore of Bodensee, & then lake Untersee, our 12th & final Swiss lake. The water was very busy with yachts & dinghys. The cycle route took us alongside the railway, passed many village stations, & over innumerable level crossings. We saw more touring cyclists today than we have seen in our entire lives! There were also herds of Roller-Bladers & Nordic-Walkers of all ages.
The Rhein-side campsite near Schaffhausen has lawns down to the waters edge. We breakfasted next morning beside some hopeful looking ducks, & watched early morning scullers pulling hard against the very strong current. Only a few miles from here we had magnificent views from a fortified village over the Rheinfalls, where 600cu.m/sec of water pours over enomous boulders in a white frenzy.
The cycle path now took us through villages of timber frame houses. In one of these the Rolls-Royce Appreciation Society of Switzerland was meeting, & showing a fine collection of vintage cars. We camp at Zurzach. The 2 Dutch touring cyclists on the next pitch are cycling to Rome from Maastricht, & give us directions to our next campsite N. of Basel. We found this most useful at the end of the following day, as Basel was a mares nest. An attractive old town, with fountains, murals & trams, but complicated by roadworks & some enormous football event they were hosting. Eventually we found our way to the recommended site in the French village of Huningue. The dutch touring cyclist here was also cycling to Rome!
The Rhein-side campsite near Schaffhausen has lawns down to the waters edge. We breakfasted next morning beside some hopeful looking ducks, & watched early morning scullers pulling hard against the very strong current. Only a few miles from here we had magnificent views from a fortified village over the Rheinfalls, where 600cu.m/sec of water pours over enomous boulders in a white frenzy.
The cycle path now took us through villages of timber frame houses. In one of these the Rolls-Royce Appreciation Society of Switzerland was meeting, & showing a fine collection of vintage cars. We camp at Zurzach. The 2 Dutch touring cyclists on the next pitch are cycling to Rome from Maastricht, & give us directions to our next campsite N. of Basel. We found this most useful at the end of the following day, as Basel was a mares nest. An attractive old town, with fountains, murals & trams, but complicated by roadworks & some enormous football event they were hosting. Eventually we found our way to the recommended site in the French village of Huningue. The dutch touring cyclist here was also cycling to Rome!
Tuesday, 3 June 2008
Oops, there goes another country.....!!!
Along the S. shore of Walensee, through 2 specially made bike tunnels, very steep inclines (the Swiss don't do hairpins for bikes), then an easy valley floor to Sargens & a short hop to the Rhine. Here there are some WWII gun emplacements. We cross over into Liechenstein at its souternmost border at 11:10am, follow the Rhine Dam Cycle Path, with a small diversion to whizz round the village of Ruggel. At 12:40pm we pass out of the N. border into Austria. After 2 hours, which included a lunch stop, we are through Austria & back into Switzerland near the Bodensee.
The Rhine had seeped through the dyke as it approaches Bodensee, & flooded the cycle path. An elderly Swiss lady cyclist turned back with us, saying she'd never seen it that bad, & helped us find a dry route around. Soon we happened upon an immaculate campsite on the S. shore at Altenrhein & had a good nights sleep after 69miles of rather warm cycling in 3 countries!
The Rhine had seeped through the dyke as it approaches Bodensee, & flooded the cycle path. An elderly Swiss lady cyclist turned back with us, saying she'd never seen it that bad, & helped us find a dry route around. Soon we happened upon an immaculate campsite on the S. shore at Altenrhein & had a good nights sleep after 69miles of rather warm cycling in 3 countries!
Lake Lucerne to Walensee....
Our journey continues back through Lucerne on Cycle Route 9, N.E. to the top of the Zugesee. At the improbably named lakeside town of Zug, we lose our way in roadworks, but the local postman on scooter with trailer leads the way to open countryside. We then head E., passed another small lake, gaining height most of the way, on forest tracks up the side of the tumbling Lorse River. Now into a magnificent high valley of traditional farms, it was a very hot day &, panting from a very steep climb, we saw a mirage. In the middle of nowhere, there were tables & chairs outside a barn, & a farmers wife selling ice-cold beer through a hatch. The local Eichof beers didn't touch the sides going down. Not much further on we camped at a farm in the tiny village of Bennau. We share a small field with 2 Christmas trees & 3 empty caravans, with a view of the valley & ski-lift in the foreground.
Raised at 5.30am by the Church bell opposite the farm, we had an early start. Not far down the road, we passed an enormous ski-jump, snow -blowers & chairlifts, with cows grazing under - it must look so different in the snow. We cross 2 lakes by road bridges, including the E. end of Lake Zurich. We camped in a wooded site at the W. end of the Walensee, right on the waters edge. There we met 2 Canadian touring cyclists, who had started from Barcelona. The lake is full to bursting with snow-melt, rivers tumbling in from the mountains carrying loads of driftwood. There is a magnificent waterfall opposite, & a village with access only by water.
Raised at 5.30am by the Church bell opposite the farm, we had an early start. Not far down the road, we passed an enormous ski-jump, snow -blowers & chairlifts, with cows grazing under - it must look so different in the snow. We cross 2 lakes by road bridges, including the E. end of Lake Zurich. We camped in a wooded site at the W. end of the Walensee, right on the waters edge. There we met 2 Canadian touring cyclists, who had started from Barcelona. The lake is full to bursting with snow-melt, rivers tumbling in from the mountains carrying loads of driftwood. There is a magnificent waterfall opposite, & a village with access only by water.
Wanderweg....
Leaving the bikes at the camp for the day, we walked up Pilatus Mountain following well-marked footpaths (Wanderwegs). through decidous woods with myrtleberry bushes under, then across alpine meadows straight from the 'Sound of Music' poster, with acres of marsh cotton, purple orchids & enormous buttercups. We pass wooden ski lodges closed up for the summer, decorated with antique wooden skis.
At 1,430 metres, just under the snowline, we picnic with a view of the end of the chairlift & the start of the very steep cable car to the summit. This is as far as we can manage today, but hope to return someday to take the rack-railway up the other side. On the way back down, we take a slightly different route, passing through a traditional farmyard, with herds of goats with tinkling bells, & some reindeer. As it is midweek, we have the mountain to ourselves, just a few nordic walkers & mountain-bikers.
At 1,430 metres, just under the snowline, we picnic with a view of the end of the chairlift & the start of the very steep cable car to the summit. This is as far as we can manage today, but hope to return someday to take the rack-railway up the other side. On the way back down, we take a slightly different route, passing through a traditional farmyard, with herds of goats with tinkling bells, & some reindeer. As it is midweek, we have the mountain to ourselves, just a few nordic walkers & mountain-bikers.
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