1, 2, or 3 ferries?...

The route from Reydon passes through Dunwich and then the RSPB reserve at Minsmere, and peaceful farm land.


We startle several hares and a weasel along the route. Plan 'A' is a gentle 43 mile ride to take 2 foot-ferries across the river at Bawdsey, and then over the estuary from Felixstowe to Harwich. On the way to the first one, we phone the ferryman to check he is operating. He says he is having a day off due to the strong winds - it sounds like he is in the pub! When we check with the second ferry, we get a similar reply. So it's plan 'B' then - 70 miles to Harwich via Ipswich and Manningtree, crossing the river bridges. We do not see much in Ipswich as there is a sudden deluge of rain. We shelter under a projecting bit of a modern office block. A builder spots this and tries to join us. He quickly realises there is not enough room for us all and stands apart, the rain bouncing off his yellow hard hat. We hurry on to Harwich to check that the Stena ferry Captain has not also decided to have a day in the pub. Fortunately he is more reliable and we are soon ensconced in his bar celebrating the 72 mile dash into a head wind.




Miles to date 551

Location:Reydon to Harwich

Winds...

Our WarmShowers hosts are in a village on the outskirts of Norwich. Martin is a very adventurous touring cyclist having travelled the length of Chile, Turkey and lots of exotic spots that make us feel we have been really timid. He kindly leads us out of the city in the morning, past Delia Smith's football club. We follow quiet lanes through little villages in sunshine, but such strong winds! Southwold, on the coast, has beach huts, a pier, a lighthouse and everything you expect from a seaside town.








Miles to date 479

Location:Norwich to Reydon

Pebbles and Peregrines...

The route south dips in and out from the coast, through the charming seaside towns of Cromer and Mundesley, and then undulating lanes through villages, each with an ancient flint church, one with an unusual round tower. We eat our lunch in a particularly beautiful churchyard full of bluebells under cherry tree blossom. Around Happisburgh we meet a stream of carbon-bike riders in a very well-supported Sportif.
Norwich centre is dominated by the cathedral behind its high flint pebble wall.





The centre is quiet, but we found it difficult to avoid traffic on the way in.
There is a nesting box on the Cathedral spire with a pair of Peregrines Falcons and four young; a web-cam on the nest is provided at a nearby RSPB stall for all to have a look.





Miles to date 433

Location:Sheringham to Norwich

Cream Teas and Puffers

As forecast there is drizzle as we set off south. By mid-morning this is blowy rain. On quiet roads we meet streams of cheery cyclists, sharing the ordeal, on a local Audax. At pretty Burnham Market we gratefully drop into a very upmarket pub. Using their wifi we see the rain will stop at 12.00 so we idle for one and a half hours over coffee and cream teas, reading their newspapers. On cue the rain ceases, and we follow cycle paths 1 and 30 along Sunday empty lanes, and a puddly, unmade track through a private estate. At a village fête is a brilliant scarecrow competition, including a birdwatcher and a cyclist! A convoy of 20+ antique tractors passes! All the villages cottages are a delight in local flint.
Approaching Sheringham we smell a steam engine, and watch a train puffing out of the old station in the town centre, on the Poppy Line to Holt. We stock up at Tescos, before they shut at 4, and then make our way to a shepherds hut in the garden of our next WarmShower!


It's a warm, sunny evening in Sheringham so we spend a splendid hour on the old railway station, reminiscing in the carriages of the vintage train of the evening, before it chugs off, whistling, manned by a volunteer crew. Then we are head down the high street, passing 1/2 a dozen very busy fish and chip shops, to join locals soaking up the sun on the front, with wind turbines whizzing around on the horizon. In "The Two Lifeboats" pub Mike discovers a very tasty red bitter called "Sirius The Dog Star" and is very happy!


Miles to date 380

Location:Dersingham to Sheringham

A Royal arrival

Our WarmShowers hostess, Alex, lives in a terraced cottage, walking distance from Cambridge city centre, in an area around Mill Road which has its own village atmosphere with lots of local shops. Alex gives us a great route out of the city, along the Cam riverside path. The only cyclists out on an early Saturday morning are the rowing coaches hollering instructions to the students in singles or eights. A quiet Route 11 cycle path takes us to near Ely and then a bit on a pavement by a busy road. We have chosen the perfect moment to visit the Cathedral as the choristers are all out in their resplendent scarlet robes, taking part in some bizarre hoop and stick race in front of the Cathedral, egged on by classmates and dignitaries.


Next is Ten Mile Road, along a canal dyke, blissfully quiet as it is shut for repairs but with no workmen around on a Saturday, we can sneak through. Then through the centre of historic Kings Lynn and the Royal Sandringham estate to WarmShower host Trevor who has been busy today on a pedal with mates raising money for the RNLI, but still has the energy to cook us smoked salmon omlettes. Perfect.


Miles to date 333

Cambridge

The first "stop in your tracks" sight in Cambridge is a sign "Stephen Hawkings Building" on Gonville & Caius college, then the view of Kings college chapel across manicured lawns. Most of the colleges are shut to internal inspection as the exams are still on, but we can appreciate the exteriors. Magdalene College resplendent, with flowering lilac over the river side elevation. Tubs of enormous bright tulips decorate the porters lodge entrance at the oldest Peterhouse College (founded 1284!).
Punt renters are busy in the sunshine, some "chauffeured", others less skilfully propelled under the low bridges by enthusiastic amateurs.

Location:Cambridge

Route 51 and Politics

Leaving Oxford North East through the old Jericho area; terraced streets with bikes chained outside every house. Families bike the school run.
Route 51 takes us nearly all the way to Cambridge, interrupted in Bicester where they felt the need for even more shops so have closed the cycle path to build over it! Electioneering posters beam with the grinning face of the Speaker John Bercow. The editorial in the local paper indicates that not everyone is happy having him as the local MP, as this means they get no other main stream candidates to vote for.
Bedford centre is a bit like Exeter, dominated by a wide river. Then the path dips into fields, around cricket pitches on village greens.


We cycle on, through the National Trust's magnificent Wimpole Estate. I'm wary of their big horned Highland cattle, lying by the path, but they and the chocolate brown lambs in the next field ignore us.
The tourist office in Cambridge provides us with a map of the sights and we set off to explore.


Miles to date 267

Location:Oxford to Cambridge