Monday, 20 August 2007

Scotland - coast to coast

We forgot to mention we reached our 2000 milestone 11th August.
Afternoon ferry to Ullapool.Great views of water falls on either side of the Loch as we approached port.As we disembarked the heavens opened and a very strong head wind -fortunately only had a few hundred yards to cycle to Ullapool campsite
14th.When we emerged in the morning sunshine we could see what a fab setting surrounded by mountains and estuary views.The glorious weather continued as we cycled towards Inverness through wonderful mountain scenery.Camped at Beauly on the river.
15th.Another sunny day -went down South side of Loch Ness to lovely unspoilt village of Fort Augustus ,where there is an opening road bridge to allow yachts through to 4 locks at the Caledonian canal.
16th.Cycled the tow path and off road through private estates and forest.Met a very interesting lock keeper who was busy letting yachts ,holiday barges and all sorts through Gairlochy Lock and operating an opening swing road bridge.There were quite a lot of touring cyclists following this Great Glen cycling route.We paid our respects at the Spean bridge Commando memorial -magnificent with the back drop of Nevis.The summit was hidden in cloud.
17th The cloud lifted from Nevis as we left Roybridge campsite ;glorious view of the summit and snow patches on this North side.Cycled through the Drumocther pass to Blair Atholl on wonderful cycle route beside the railway and river,surrounded by the Cairngorms.The highest railway in UK.Camped in the Blair estate by the castle .A 5 star enormous site .The village is still all estate owned and very quaint.
18th .We knew it couldn't last -the weather deteriorated and rained all day -so we decided to keep on cycling past Perth -67 miles to camp near pleasant village of Kinross .The rain continued all night !
19th Fine in the morning and all day as we headed for the Forth Rd bridge ,pausing to take photos of the railbridge-then a puddley trip along the canal to Linlithgow and up the hill to Jane and Mikes where a feast of lamb and sampling of Mikes famous wine cellar sustained us.We are now drying out as everything got wet when we had to wade through a flooded section of cycle route near Dunfermeline -even deeper than in Wales -keeping Jane's washing machine busy .
20th To spend pm in Edinburgh sampling the Fringe.

Plan to head south thru the Borders from Wednesday, to call at Mike's sister's in Mansfield.

Monday, 13 August 2007

Further Islands

8th Aug - Ferry from Tobermory to Kilchoan on Ardnamurchan Peninsula (mainland). Great ride from Kilchoan thru Peninsula & Miodart area to Arisaig.
9th - Arisaig to Mallaig then ferry to Skye. Good weather all day for ride to Sligochan. Wonderful views of the Red & Black Cuillin. Good off main drag routes.
10th - Portree then to Staffin via 'Old Man of Storr'. Great coast & mountian views & waterfall to sea at Kilt Rock.
11th - Wonderful ride over the Quiraing rode to Uig. Saw Hen Harrier close to road. Ferry from Uig to Tarbert on Harris. Amazing 'lunar landscape scenery of south Harris.
12th - Steady days ride from south Harris to Stornoway on Lewis. Poor visibility, but some good coastal loch views.
13th - Stornoway Library internet while waiting for 1345 ferry to Ullapool

Will spend next few days cycling down thru Scotland (Great Glen etc) to Edinburgh to see Sue's sister Jane & family. Weather forecast not brilliant - might get wet!

Tuesday, 7 August 2007

West Scotland - Islands

Spent lovely weekend in NI withLiz and family ,Great to be chauffered us up beautiful Antrim coast rd in brilliant sun .
30th. Road past Slemish mountain to pm ferry from Larne to Troon. Met LA cyclist with trailer ,
31st ferry to Arran ,Mini Scotland -mountains lakes .2 beautiful days -Golden eagles ,seals red deer. Geologists dream -huttons unconcormity!
2nd ferry to Isla .Fab weather camped in dunes -views of Gigha.
4th mainland route ( to Oban to catch ferry to Mull.Great views of Osprey family.
20mins off ferry on Mull saw white tailed sea eagle .
7th Camping Tobermory -off north to mainland and Skye tomorrow.

Friday, 27 July 2007

Sligo, Mayo then North

Friday. Westpoint.Very grateful for stay with inspirational touring cyclist Mike Murphy and his lovely wife, Sheila (who cooked us a feast). A chance meeting with Mike whilst we looked for a campsite in the rain led to a dry night for us in great company
Sat. Mike M. led us on our way North via very quiet roads past lovely lakes and mountains. Camped Insihcrone-very hot and sunny .
Sun. Sligo -bought mike a new rear tyre as a spate of punctures -trying a `Continental`.Camped @Rosses Point.View from tent of lovely `Oyster` island with its tiny lighthouse.View ,brill weather and Guiness so good we stayed 2 nights -our 1st rest day since Rosslare!.
Tuesday. Carney -hamlet just north of Rosses. Ancestral home of Kevin Davenport.The other famous son is WB Yeats ,after whom everthing is named ,including local football team -Yeats UTD.
Fabulous queit ride past breathtaking montains..Camped on shore of Lough Erne.

Sorry to be leaving Eire as shall miss staggering scenery ,sunshine ,beaches etc but mainly the lovely people-especially the many little old ladies who insisted on giving us complex detailed routes to places ,even if we werent going there!

Wed. Lovely back roads through bigger fields -cows now Charalei and Chocolate. Lots of donkeys.Farm dogs have often rushed out -if you are going 12 mph or more they cant keep up -all right down hill or on flat -difficult up hill !Camped by lake in park south of Dungannon.

Thurs. 71 miles today(got a bit lost ) -longest yet -its great to be so fit now -we couldn`t have done 1/2 that a mounth ago .Camped on shore of river Bann .Next tent a cyclist from Holland -he had such dreadful weather crossing England -he gave up and took train to Liverpool.Has just rung his Mum in Holland who is flooded too! We met many fellow touring cyclist in SW -mainly French -much fewer now.
Friday in Ballymena to meet Liz and stay a while -Then off to Scotland. Total 310mils since last blog update - just under 1,500 miles so far!

Friday, 20 July 2007

Moher, the Burren, Galway & Connemara

Friday .Westport,pased lakesMask and Corrib down little roads with grass down middle -hares everywhere -brilliant sushine.
Thursday, Connemara mountains and enormous lakes full of little islands and bobbinng fishing boats.
Wednesday, Peatbogs,tiny fields with limestone walls -honey coloured cows with calves,blackfaced /socked sheep and thoroughbreed horses and foals.
Tues ,Banna,fantastic limestone landscape -cliffs and lakes ,completely unspoilt.
Monday,1000miles in total !Early start in sunshine along the Atlantic road on the north side of the Loop -wonderful Basalt cliffs almost as good as cliffs of Moher which we saw later in day . Camped by the sea at Doolin and had guiness in good pub recommended by Mo spent evening talking to a very interesting Ozcouple.
Sun. Heading north to the Magnificent Shannon estuary -crossed by car ferry in a shower .Camped on the shore overlooking colonies of Sandwich terns and blackheaed gulls.
Sat.Visited Inch beach where `Ryans Daughter` filmed sat out in sun to eat Full Irish. Beautiful setting with mountains behind but spoilt by parking -litter on beach and quadbiking in dunes!

Cycled over wonderful Connor pass to Dingle.Fab camp site with views of Dingle BaY.25 Mile cycle without gear round caost of Dingle peninsula in sun ,great views of the Blaskett islands .
The papers here are full of the housing market as values dropping and negative equity.
Last 2 weeks no signs /directions have been in English .I soon discovered fìr is gents not ladies.

Friday, 13 July 2007

On to the Peninsulas

Off to the Dingle Peninsula today, then continuing across the Shannon heading north up th west coast. Mileage since last blog entry 270.

Killarney. Reached here early 8.30am so avoiding traffic. Charming town a bit like Bath ,well preserved, quite posh hotels -worth a visit.

Thursday was best days cycling ever. The mist lifted and the road went high round the coast wqith views of bays and farms. Then the road through the centre of the peninsula was quiet as no HGV .Went through two high passes with stunning mountain views on 3 sides Maccilycuddies Reeks the highest mountains in Ireland -,plus flower meadows and hanging lakes -clear views and sunshine all day .10 miles from Kilarney found beautiful little campsite -1 other tent only ,behaind a shop on a river -dried out all gear and had evening walk to look at mountains.

Wednesday Ring of Kerry road going West clockwise,some views ,lots of traffic including at least 20 tourist coaches going opposite way -dangerous speed -by afternnon heavy rain and mist ,camped at end of peninsula on sea edge -but could see little.

Monday /Tuesday Beara Peninsula -The most beautiful place we have seen yet -views all round of Bays ,distant islands and The Ring of Kerry in distance .Had Veronicas guiness fruit cake and tea in bruilliant sunshine before cycling on clockwise East to wild camp just over a high pass om the warmest night so far -very early start next day so beat all the traffic

Bantry Bay area wonderful views, sunshine all day .Curlews, oyster catchers shelduck and
ducklings.

Blarney - despite big tourist attraction of castle still a charming village centre with colourful cottages. Mike thought I didn`t need to kiss the stone! Great campsite with views for miles -
sunshine all day.

Cork much like anyother large congested town ,but the suburbs very Irish little terrace houses and corner shops.

Kinsale a disappointment as stuffed full of queuing traffic,tourists and carparks -prettier and quiet was Glandore -lovely yachty bays and fab scenery. Campsite "The Meadsow" in a quiet country garden.

Friday, 6 July 2007

South East Ireland

Have arrived Cork this morning in sunshine !150 miles since Rosslare.Thursday rained from taking down tent @7.30 until 1.30 then force 8 gusting 9 headwinds -Oh Joy. N25 road from from hell including roadworks and blocked exit to field campsite. Highlights -Irish breakfasts at Dungarven and outskirts of Cork,beautiful coastal views. Japanese knotweed along roads and canals. Mike growing beard. To camp at Blarney tonight then on to Kinsale and West to Dingle.
Are taking photos but can't attach presently.