Began last weekend with a farm walk by the rio Seco on the outskirts of Nerja (strangely named Seco (dry) as it is one of the few rivers with any water in it!) There were so many little offshoot roads to explore that we returned the next morning on bikes, fording the river & getting high up the valley side on the small farm roads & rough tracks. We met a party of locals out riding their magnificent horses, not a riding hat amongst them!
Sue & Graham E. joined us for Sunday lunch at Antonio's Chiringito Breine on the beach. It was heaving with people by about 1.30pm. Great Paella!
Our 'big' cycle of the week was up to the village of Competa. We think it must have been 'Goat Tuesday' as we cycled through three separate herds of goats, holding our breath as we understand there is a local outbreak of virulent brucellosis, transmittable to humans!!! We overtook two motorcyclists on the 10 mile return descent - they had switched off their engines to conserve fuel, but not their heads, as again, no protective headgear!
Enjoyed a wonderful walk with Sue & Graham E. along the ridges (up to 600 metres) directly behind their apartment. Spring flowers seem to have suddenly appeared in abundance, including the delicate white 'Star of Bethlehem'. Also lots of butterflies, notably the large yellow & black Swallowtails, & some little stripey lizards. Graham photographed lots of flowers we couldn't identify to look up later in their local fauna book. A very hot day, 23 degrees in the shade of their balcony, & Sue E. needed to put on her very fetching (nearly) pink sun hat!
As usual on our cycle to Cerro Gordo we saw a party of Ibex, but have still not seen the elusive dolphins.
Friday, 1 February 2008
Friday, 25 January 2008
Almond Blossom
We were reminded in this weeks Spanish lesson that not only are there two verbs for 'to be', but also there are two for 'to have'.....aaaah!
We joined the Walking Group to one of our favourite views at the top of El Fuerte (1000m), higher than a 'Munro'. The views of the Med to the south, & rolling hills to the north were breathtaking. Fabulous weather at about 23degC.
A new cycle trip on Thursday to the reservoir at Vinuela. It was the first time we had cycled more than 50 miles in a day for quite a while. At lunchtime we sat above the reservoir, & watched a shepherd walk his flock of 100 or so around the shores. The water level looked about half full - probably not good for this time of year! Our ride took us to the western side of 'Maroma' (2065m), which we usually see from the southeast - from this new aspect it completely dominates the landscape & is extremely steep.
The weather has been so good in Andalucia this week that it has been reported on local TV as 'la primavera en enero' (spring in January). Perhaps this is why the almond blossom is appearing so early, especially around Vinuela where there are so many almond groves. It looks rather like white cherry blossom, & promises to be a good show when in full bloom.
We joined the Walking Group to one of our favourite views at the top of El Fuerte (1000m), higher than a 'Munro'. The views of the Med to the south, & rolling hills to the north were breathtaking. Fabulous weather at about 23degC.
A new cycle trip on Thursday to the reservoir at Vinuela. It was the first time we had cycled more than 50 miles in a day for quite a while. At lunchtime we sat above the reservoir, & watched a shepherd walk his flock of 100 or so around the shores. The water level looked about half full - probably not good for this time of year! Our ride took us to the western side of 'Maroma' (2065m), which we usually see from the southeast - from this new aspect it completely dominates the landscape & is extremely steep.
The weather has been so good in Andalucia this week that it has been reported on local TV as 'la primavera en enero' (spring in January). Perhaps this is why the almond blossom is appearing so early, especially around Vinuela where there are so many almond groves. It looks rather like white cherry blossom, & promises to be a good show when in full bloom.
Sunday, 20 January 2008
The Two Towers...!
Walked to Spanish class in the rain this week! Opened the classroom door onto an enormous puddle (drains for rain not a strong point). Continuing to enjoy our lessons, but we think it would be much easier if they didn't have male & female words (it seems to work ok in English!)
Later in the week the sunshine returned so we enjoyed our usual walks & cycles. Returning past the Caves of Nerja with Sue & Graham E. we stopped to watch 'Black squirrels' chasing up & down trees. We are not sure if they are really Beech Martens, not squirrels, but the photo in Sue E's new wildlife book is inconclusive. All that day we had heard rocket fireworks being let off in Maro as part of their festival.
One evening we watched the September storm damage being repaired on our local Torrecilla Beach. Earthmovers piled sand from below the tide line back higher up the beach. They also carefully reinstated a palm tree & a beach hut which had been knocked over.
At the end on the week we cycled east to Cerro Gordo, locked our bikes & walked out to the headland where there is a completely intact Watch Tower. This is part of a chain of towers built all along the coast as lookouts & safe refuges for the locals from marauding pirates in days gone by. From here we could see at least 3 more towers, wonderful coast views, & snow still visible on the western Sierra Nevada, but clear on the summit of Maroma (2000m). As we left the tower to return to the bikes, two male horned ibex passed close to us on the footpath.
The next day we tried to walk from Maro Pueblo (village) to Maro Torre (tower) thru' the local crops, but got a bit lost so spent several hours sunbathing on Maro beach instead!
Later in the week the sunshine returned so we enjoyed our usual walks & cycles. Returning past the Caves of Nerja with Sue & Graham E. we stopped to watch 'Black squirrels' chasing up & down trees. We are not sure if they are really Beech Martens, not squirrels, but the photo in Sue E's new wildlife book is inconclusive. All that day we had heard rocket fireworks being let off in Maro as part of their festival.
One evening we watched the September storm damage being repaired on our local Torrecilla Beach. Earthmovers piled sand from below the tide line back higher up the beach. They also carefully reinstated a palm tree & a beach hut which had been knocked over.
At the end on the week we cycled east to Cerro Gordo, locked our bikes & walked out to the headland where there is a completely intact Watch Tower. This is part of a chain of towers built all along the coast as lookouts & safe refuges for the locals from marauding pirates in days gone by. From here we could see at least 3 more towers, wonderful coast views, & snow still visible on the western Sierra Nevada, but clear on the summit of Maroma (2000m). As we left the tower to return to the bikes, two male horned ibex passed close to us on the footpath.
The next day we tried to walk from Maro Pueblo (village) to Maro Torre (tower) thru' the local crops, but got a bit lost so spent several hours sunbathing on Maro beach instead!
Thursday, 10 January 2008
Friends Reunited...
7-1-08 Sue and Graham returned from wet Wales yesterday. We met up for Paella lunch at Ayos on Burriana beach. They got the bus from Malaga - 3 euros 50 cents for 40 miles, then 7 euros for a taxi the last 250 metres! Their case was so heavy they couldn´t carry it - Graham blames Sue - he had only packed 1 pair of walking socks! Sue admits the luggage did include a bag of spuds!
8-1-08 We cycled West to Velez Malaga to visit the advertised Tourist Office. We have started to plan our onward journey from Nerja, & needed information about campsites. No sign of the Tourist Office, so Sue popped into the local Library, which was brand new & the super-efficient staff gave us lots of useful brochures (& the advice that there is now no Tourist Office in Velez Malaga!!!).
As we sped back along the N340 coast road, Sue remembered the account in Josie Dew's cycling book of her journey along this road 15 years ago. It was then apparently the most dangerous road in Europe! Thankfully the new autoroute A7 has taken away a lot of the traffic. We were held up by one old local pushing his wheelbarrow of vegetables along the carriageway. I expect he & his barrow have been making this journey since it was a donkey dirt track!
We spotted our local oxen tethered at the roadside munching grass on common land. Despite the building boom there are still many patches of common grazing with tethered horses & donkeys & wandering goatherds a common sight.
9-1-08 About 18 of us set out with the Mike & Roz walking group, from Pueblo Acebuchal for a lovely rambla & ridge walk with fantastic valley views & some ibex spotting. We have noticed recently lots of 'nests' of the dreadful Processionary Caterpillars developing in the pines. The spines on the caterpillars are very nasty, & can apparently kill dogs on contact. They will start their 'processions' from their nests sometime in March, so we will have to be careful they don't fall onto us as they can cause a nasty rash to humans. This is a growing Andalucian problem.
10-1-08 First Spanish class of the year, & Graham joined is as his New Year resolution. We did a lot of work on 'Profesiones'. The Spanish have a very loose interpretation of the meaning of Profesiones, as it included cyclists (ciclistas) & assassins (asesinos)!
In an apartment above us, the occupants managed to lock themselves out onto their balcony & called to us for assistance. We eventually tracked down our trusty Caretaker who was able to use his cat-rescuing ladder to climb through their bedroom window & let them back in. We were rewarded with some local beer.
8-1-08 We cycled West to Velez Malaga to visit the advertised Tourist Office. We have started to plan our onward journey from Nerja, & needed information about campsites. No sign of the Tourist Office, so Sue popped into the local Library, which was brand new & the super-efficient staff gave us lots of useful brochures (& the advice that there is now no Tourist Office in Velez Malaga!!!).
As we sped back along the N340 coast road, Sue remembered the account in Josie Dew's cycling book of her journey along this road 15 years ago. It was then apparently the most dangerous road in Europe! Thankfully the new autoroute A7 has taken away a lot of the traffic. We were held up by one old local pushing his wheelbarrow of vegetables along the carriageway. I expect he & his barrow have been making this journey since it was a donkey dirt track!
We spotted our local oxen tethered at the roadside munching grass on common land. Despite the building boom there are still many patches of common grazing with tethered horses & donkeys & wandering goatherds a common sight.
9-1-08 About 18 of us set out with the Mike & Roz walking group, from Pueblo Acebuchal for a lovely rambla & ridge walk with fantastic valley views & some ibex spotting. We have noticed recently lots of 'nests' of the dreadful Processionary Caterpillars developing in the pines. The spines on the caterpillars are very nasty, & can apparently kill dogs on contact. They will start their 'processions' from their nests sometime in March, so we will have to be careful they don't fall onto us as they can cause a nasty rash to humans. This is a growing Andalucian problem.
10-1-08 First Spanish class of the year, & Graham joined is as his New Year resolution. We did a lot of work on 'Profesiones'. The Spanish have a very loose interpretation of the meaning of Profesiones, as it included cyclists (ciclistas) & assassins (asesinos)!
In an apartment above us, the occupants managed to lock themselves out onto their balcony & called to us for assistance. We eventually tracked down our trusty Caretaker who was able to use his cat-rescuing ladder to climb through their bedroom window & let them back in. We were rewarded with some local beer.
Sunday, 6 January 2008
Visitors (including Three Kings!)
25/12/07 - Christmas dawned a beautiful sunny day. We were amazed to see many shops & restaurants open for normal trading. We lunched on various fish dishes at Burriana Beach.
26/12 - Mike & Roz led a walk in the rain (it was the "Garage" walk for those who know the area). The locals must have thought us "loco" for walking in the rain.
27/12 - Our last Spanish lesson of the year. Cleo tells us all the names for family members - the various distinct names are more numerous than we have in England, & the same must be true in other countries as the Swiss lady at the front of the class remarked "we don't have this many relatives in Switzerland!"
28 & 29/12 - Chris arrived from Exeter to lovely sunshine here, followed the next day by Janet & Ian from their holiday in the Malaga area, & Jacquie from Glasgow Airport.
30/12 - A day walking wih Janet & Ian whilst Chris & Jacquie lounged on the beach.
31/12 - Another fine walk with J&I (El Fuerte where we saw Ibex & a poss sighting of short-toed eagle). C&J recovering from late night out at Tutti-Frutti Plaza (Nerja night-life!) We cooked dinner together at the apartment,the best course being the Clootey Pudding brought all the way from Peterhead by Jacquie (like Christmas Pudding but lighter & with lots of cinnamon - went well with custard). Saw the New Year in on the Balcon de Europa - masses of fireworks & a band playing everything from flamenco to Elvis for a large jovial mixed-age multi-national family audience! Ensured we all partook of the traditional Spanish New Year Champers & Grapes.
01/01/08 - As we set out on our New Year walk at 10.00am, we met several young couples still in their glad-rags from the all night party. Chris was the only one of us brave enough to take a New Year dip in our shared outdoor pool - brrr!!!
02/01 - Jacquie had an early flight back to Glasgow. S & C cycled to Frigiliana. M, J & I walked the wonderful "Liman" trail, marred only by low cloud early on & rain later.
03/01 - Chris got the 6.30am bus to Malaga for his flight home. The rest of us got a later bus &, after a splendid 2 hour lunch, looked round Malaga sights including the splendid Cathedral. We then said goodbye to J & I who were heading back home to Exeter.
04/01 - Cycled to Torrox Costa in the morning & saw splendid views of Maroma mountain covered with snow. Then spent the rest of the day catching up with our Spanish homework on our terrace in the sun.
05/01 - The "Three Kings" (Magi) toured Nerja (as they do every Spanish town on the eve of the Epiphany - a more important holiday to the Spanish than Christmas). The procession had 7 floats, several groups of dancers, & at least 4 bands (drums a major feature!) Tractors again supplied by the Benitco Bros, from a small old one which had difficulty starting, to a brand spanking new MF6480 (Brian take note).
06/01 - cycled to Cerro Gordo then into the hills climbing to 450metres with great views of serious snow on the western Sierra Nevada. Saw a family group of 11 ibex on the old N340 road near Cerro Gordo.
26/12 - Mike & Roz led a walk in the rain (it was the "Garage" walk for those who know the area). The locals must have thought us "loco" for walking in the rain.
27/12 - Our last Spanish lesson of the year. Cleo tells us all the names for family members - the various distinct names are more numerous than we have in England, & the same must be true in other countries as the Swiss lady at the front of the class remarked "we don't have this many relatives in Switzerland!"
28 & 29/12 - Chris arrived from Exeter to lovely sunshine here, followed the next day by Janet & Ian from their holiday in the Malaga area, & Jacquie from Glasgow Airport.
30/12 - A day walking wih Janet & Ian whilst Chris & Jacquie lounged on the beach.
31/12 - Another fine walk with J&I (El Fuerte where we saw Ibex & a poss sighting of short-toed eagle). C&J recovering from late night out at Tutti-Frutti Plaza (Nerja night-life!) We cooked dinner together at the apartment,the best course being the Clootey Pudding brought all the way from Peterhead by Jacquie (like Christmas Pudding but lighter & with lots of cinnamon - went well with custard). Saw the New Year in on the Balcon de Europa - masses of fireworks & a band playing everything from flamenco to Elvis for a large jovial mixed-age multi-national family audience! Ensured we all partook of the traditional Spanish New Year Champers & Grapes.
01/01/08 - As we set out on our New Year walk at 10.00am, we met several young couples still in their glad-rags from the all night party. Chris was the only one of us brave enough to take a New Year dip in our shared outdoor pool - brrr!!!
02/01 - Jacquie had an early flight back to Glasgow. S & C cycled to Frigiliana. M, J & I walked the wonderful "Liman" trail, marred only by low cloud early on & rain later.
03/01 - Chris got the 6.30am bus to Malaga for his flight home. The rest of us got a later bus &, after a splendid 2 hour lunch, looked round Malaga sights including the splendid Cathedral. We then said goodbye to J & I who were heading back home to Exeter.
04/01 - Cycled to Torrox Costa in the morning & saw splendid views of Maroma mountain covered with snow. Then spent the rest of the day catching up with our Spanish homework on our terrace in the sun.
05/01 - The "Three Kings" (Magi) toured Nerja (as they do every Spanish town on the eve of the Epiphany - a more important holiday to the Spanish than Christmas). The procession had 7 floats, several groups of dancers, & at least 4 bands (drums a major feature!) Tractors again supplied by the Benitco Bros, from a small old one which had difficulty starting, to a brand spanking new MF6480 (Brian take note).
06/01 - cycled to Cerro Gordo then into the hills climbing to 450metres with great views of serious snow on the western Sierra Nevada. Saw a family group of 11 ibex on the old N340 road near Cerro Gordo.
Monday, 24 December 2007
Papa´ Noel
Commercially sensitive Santa chose Sunday evening to visit the children of Nerja. As the streets were closed to traffic, he would have been too disruptive on a weekday.
He set off with his large entourage from the Town Hall. There were so many elves, that 2 large 'sleighs' were needed, given a helping hand by the local farmers & their tractors. You could tell where Santa had passed, as great heaps of ticker tape littered the pavement. You could tell where he was by the cacophany of the Children's Band leading him back to the Balcon De Europa. The drum section was particularly noisy. Sweets, from bags the size of pillowcases, were thrown to children lining the route (but Sue did not manage to catch any!)
Fortunately it was a mild dry evening as, by the time Santa sat down on his throne in front of the Church of San Salvador, there was an orderly queue of every child in Nerja. It took Santa an hour to 'meet & greet'. He will have to be a bit slicker on his global big night, but it was a good dry run!
We enjoyed our favourite Frigiliana cycle ride again this week, although there were a few more motorcyclists about due to the holidays - Santa needs to bring some of them cycle helmets! Also saw our walking friends Mike & Roz in 'Irish Annies', a local bar where Mike & some chums play folk music & the Guiness is keptwell.
Wonderful to be able to spend Christmas Eve lunch eating a fantastic Paella on the beach in the sun.
As we won't have access to the internet tomorrow, we will take this opportunity to wish everyone a Merry Christmas & Happy New Year.
FELIZ NAVIDAD!!!
He set off with his large entourage from the Town Hall. There were so many elves, that 2 large 'sleighs' were needed, given a helping hand by the local farmers & their tractors. You could tell where Santa had passed, as great heaps of ticker tape littered the pavement. You could tell where he was by the cacophany of the Children's Band leading him back to the Balcon De Europa. The drum section was particularly noisy. Sweets, from bags the size of pillowcases, were thrown to children lining the route (but Sue did not manage to catch any!)
Fortunately it was a mild dry evening as, by the time Santa sat down on his throne in front of the Church of San Salvador, there was an orderly queue of every child in Nerja. It took Santa an hour to 'meet & greet'. He will have to be a bit slicker on his global big night, but it was a good dry run!
We enjoyed our favourite Frigiliana cycle ride again this week, although there were a few more motorcyclists about due to the holidays - Santa needs to bring some of them cycle helmets! Also saw our walking friends Mike & Roz in 'Irish Annies', a local bar where Mike & some chums play folk music & the Guiness is keptwell.
Wonderful to be able to spend Christmas Eve lunch eating a fantastic Paella on the beach in the sun.
As we won't have access to the internet tomorrow, we will take this opportunity to wish everyone a Merry Christmas & Happy New Year.
FELIZ NAVIDAD!!!
Friday, 21 December 2007
Local Entertainments
Repeated the walk into the rio Chillar from Capistrano - thought we ought to make sure we know where we are going as we may take visitors there! Just as well as we got lost near the end & ended up on a very slippy steep slope. We promise to take future walkers the right route! Sue was very grateful for the use of a walking pole loaned to her over Christmas by Gill.
We passed the Ox-Man - a local who has a pair of oxen hitched to a plough which he uses instead of a tractor on the inaccessable parts of local fields. They look very smart, with red tassel fringes (just the oxen, not the man).
We went to see the latest Harry Potter film in english with spanish subtitles, in the Cultural Centre in Nerja. Only about 25 in the audience. Great not to have all the dross of adverts before the film, just a little low-budget Spanish film so well made we could understand it without knowing the language. Took in the B&W photo exhibition in the lobby of the Centre - 50's & 60's shots of Nerja & inhabitants. Roads having cobbles laid, women fetching water from the various town communal supply points.
Our Caretaker at the Flats has found other distractions from clearing the leaves out of his beloved fountains. He has installed a string of yellow flashing lights over the access gate, & spent the good part of a day up a ladder trying to coax his cat down from the large tree at the entrance. As usual, in Spain, he soon attracted an audience of local men who seem to have nothing else to do. We wondered how long it would be before he resorted to his trusty chainsaw!
We were fortunate to attend "Luces de Invierno" (Lights of Winter) performed in a small 16thC chapel. A gorgeous church incorporating lots of gold filigree, but not gaudy. The ladies choir sang 16th century songs in English, French, Spanish, Latin and German, accompanied by a cellist, violins and flamenco guitars - very professional. The chapel was packed - and finished with a moving rendition of Silent Night sung by the audience in a variety of languages.
We are getting in the Christmas spirit, & are looking forward to seeing Santa when he visits Nerja on Sunday. We have been told to put sweets & a note at the door of the Church (Sue v hopeful will produce results!) Hopefully his reindeer won't tangle with the oxen, could be messy!!!
We passed the Ox-Man - a local who has a pair of oxen hitched to a plough which he uses instead of a tractor on the inaccessable parts of local fields. They look very smart, with red tassel fringes (just the oxen, not the man).
We went to see the latest Harry Potter film in english with spanish subtitles, in the Cultural Centre in Nerja. Only about 25 in the audience. Great not to have all the dross of adverts before the film, just a little low-budget Spanish film so well made we could understand it without knowing the language. Took in the B&W photo exhibition in the lobby of the Centre - 50's & 60's shots of Nerja & inhabitants. Roads having cobbles laid, women fetching water from the various town communal supply points.
Our Caretaker at the Flats has found other distractions from clearing the leaves out of his beloved fountains. He has installed a string of yellow flashing lights over the access gate, & spent the good part of a day up a ladder trying to coax his cat down from the large tree at the entrance. As usual, in Spain, he soon attracted an audience of local men who seem to have nothing else to do. We wondered how long it would be before he resorted to his trusty chainsaw!
We were fortunate to attend "Luces de Invierno" (Lights of Winter) performed in a small 16thC chapel. A gorgeous church incorporating lots of gold filigree, but not gaudy. The ladies choir sang 16th century songs in English, French, Spanish, Latin and German, accompanied by a cellist, violins and flamenco guitars - very professional. The chapel was packed - and finished with a moving rendition of Silent Night sung by the audience in a variety of languages.
We are getting in the Christmas spirit, & are looking forward to seeing Santa when he visits Nerja on Sunday. We have been told to put sweets & a note at the door of the Church (Sue v hopeful will produce results!) Hopefully his reindeer won't tangle with the oxen, could be messy!!!
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