Seven Devils...

Reedsport was a lumber town, but is now very run down with many empty houses and businesses. Bigger North Bend is a little more prosperous, but we have first to cycle a busy bridge, precariously balancing on a raised path.
Then on to the best ride of the trip so far, Seven Devils Road, up high through pine forests on the dunes, with views of the Pacific and inland to forested mountain, and tiny lakes.
Then down, across another busy bridge, with no hard shoulder, over the wide Coquille River to camp at our hosts in a marvellous rural big plot with uninterrupted wide views of the river and flood plain. Bryan takes us down to his jetty to pull up the crab pots. The 9 crabs are prepared by Nicole for our dinner, with salmon Bryan caught at the river mouth this morning. Two young cyclists arrive, also heading south, one just starting a round world trip, the other escaping the cold in her Alaskan home, heading for Texas.
We have seen little fishing boats at all the river entrances, catching the rising salmon. Apparently this bounty goes on until October. Early next morning they are already trailing lines, as we enter
the lovely old historic centre of Bandon. We order breakfast at a very popular cafe - Janet and I love granola, the men prefer breakfast butties. In walk the 2 young cyclists we had met in Shelton a week ago (a bit surprising as they had taken a "short cut" through Portland!!) It is great to catch up with their adventures. They spent the previous night on a local baseball pitch, woken at 5 by the sprinklers!
Today is the anniversary of 9/11 so there are many stars and stripes flags in front of people's houses.
The coast route today is stunning, frothy seas crashing onto miles of empty sandy beaches and sea stacks.


The coast-hugging road suddenly sweeps inland to go around Humbug Mountain. Then there are very wet fields that are apparently cranberry bogs, a high value crop.
Our last full day in Oregon - full of sun and sea - and California tomorrow!






Tour miles to date: 1,245

Location:Reedsport to Gold Beach

Wildlife...

The Perpetua coast road twists in and out of tiny bays.This is one of the most beautiful stretches of coast with views to the horizon as fog free! No logging lorries as it's a Sunday, instead lots of ENORMOUS camper vans towing big cars or boats - as long as buses. As if we aren't getting exercise enough, a keep-fit class took place at one of our stop-offs!


Black Oystercatchers are on the beach and Surf Scoters, surfing. After surviving a short uphill tunnel (that we had not expected), we are rewarded with brilliant views of a the seal lion colony entering caves in the cliffs under us, and we look down on turkey vultures landing on the rocks below.


Our Coffee stop almost betters our previous meeting with the sheriff, as we speak to a man dressed as a tree! The hunters out here are not satisfied with wearing camouflage - they have leaves and twigs stuck on them as well. After he had gone a deer came near our outside table - a close call. Lunch is a picnic by a peaceful river. Two little steam driven boats are puttering about on the water.


From lunchtime onwards we are in Oregon Dunes State Park, where enormous sand dunes, often covered in fir trees, line our route. As we enter Reedsport we cycle round a deer, unfortunately road kill.


Tour miles to date: 1,131

Location:Yachats to Reedsport

Boiling seas...

A fellow camper tells us the "pesky" racoons broke into their storage box last night, stealing all the dog food. We had hung the small amount of food we have in a tree as usual, with no probs. At breakfast, we spot a Golden-crowned Kinglet (like our Goldcrest) eating pine kernels in the tree alongside us.


First stop Saturday morning is Depoe Bay, advertising itself as the smallest harbour in the world. Standing on the bridge over the harbour entrance, we watch a fishing boat power out of the tiny gap in the rocks, and a harbour seal enjoying the jacuzzi affect of the crashing waves.
We pause at Boiler Bay viewpoint, where Pacific waves are crashing in, but there is no sign of the boiler that is all that remains of the wrecked freight schooner from 1910, that gives the bay its name. Using the restroom there, I encounter a distressed ample lady who, having found herself locked in the cubicle, had squeezed out under the door to escape!
The old road provides us with a cycle route for several miles so we enjoy peace from the busy Hwy 101 traffic, and some great views to the cliffs and surf below as we climb to 400 ft.
Newport has a spectacular bridge, but typical of many on this road, with no shoulder for us to cycle, so we're on the sidewalk to avoid the traffic!


We book into a motel at the little village of Yachats, the enormous rooms big enough to house the bikes as well as air the tents! After a five minute stroll to the bay we have seen the whole place and pick the very friendly locals' pub for dinner - the only choice, Rock fish and chips, is good cyclist fodder. Then we have a great laugh in the Karaoke (well, we join in the choruses with "Elvis", a 90 yr old "Sinatra" and "Emmy Lou Harris").
We have fallen in love with Yachats, the friendliest place, finding it hard to drag ourselves away next morning from breakfast at the Green Salmon.


Tour miles to date: 1,081

Location:Lincoln city to Yachats

Tunnel!!!...

The fog is very local, disappearing offshore as we leave town next morning. A friendly young Swiss Lady touring cyclist keeps pace with us most of the day. At a view point the mist rolls off the sea, up the cliff, forming plumes in the fir forest.


Cannon Beach is a charming seaside town of wooden houses with verandahs and flowery gardens.
Then the one tunnel of the trip, and it is uphill! The Swiss girl goes in front of the tandem as she has no rear light. Mike presses the button to warn the traffic (mostly lorries) that cyclists are in the tunnel (with no hard shoulder). This is ignored by a double length tanker doing at least 60mph, who passes us by inches. We all emerge in a state shock.
Wheeler is a tiny, tidy fishing port on a wide bay. We stare at a large herd of elk on the other bank. They all stare back, I don't think they have seen hi-vis humans before. We stop at a road side shack called Karla's at Rockaway Beach, selling the best ever smoked fish, so we sample the black cod, salmon and tuna. Karla is still there behind the counter, smoking and selling the fish herself, as she has for 40+ years.
At blue Tillamook Bay, brown pelicans dive, and we arrive at Dee and Mark's house in Bay City. Their well behaved 2 standard poodles and 2 Scottie dogs greet us. We are spoilt with 2 lovely rooms for the night.
Two BIG hills next day, both over 800ft. From a viewpoint on the second, we see a flock of Stellar Jays, with their distinctive vibrant blue backs and black headcrests.


Once we have seen the view of crashing surf from the first summit, we whizz down through acres of sand dunes, which look out of place with fir trees growing on them. We reach a wide sunny farmland valley, stuck in a '50s time warp. We join the Sheriff of Tillamook for coffee on the wooden verandah of a tiny, faded general store on a lonely cross road at Sandllake.


Lunch is at Pacific City, eating home-bottled tuna made by Dee, and watching the occasional 4x4 try and drive up the steep dunes onto the beach - not many make it at first attempt.


We camp in a state park at Lincoln City and eat in a massive busy fish restaurant right on the beach. We are a day ahead of our (Lonely Planet) schedule.


Tour miles to date: 1027

Location:Seaside to Lincoln City

Mount St Helens...

Another morning of mist which burns off by breakfast. The summer holidays have finished, so the bright yellow school buses are busy in town and country. We climb from Centralia to be rewarded with stunning views of snow-covered Mount St Helen's to the east. The enormous crater on the side, caused by the devastating eruption in the early 1980's, is still clearly visible.
After Toledo we ride easy undulating roads beside the River Cowlitz. It is beautifully sunny, and we pass typical farms with enormous dutch-style wooden barns.


Our evening stop is at Longview on the Columbia river, camping in the back "yard" of Bonnie and Steve. Their beautiful garden has grass like a bowling green. A balmy evening is passed enjoying a barbie and fresh produce from their garden.
The route next morning along the riverside road is shared with many logging lorries charging along in both directions! Then we cross to an island by bridge, and just catch the 11am small ferry from the other side to Westport. We had to negotiate with the ferryman to get the tandem on for the price of a single bike, then we disembarked into the state of Oregon.
Some of the route now is along the Lewis and Clarke trail, named for the pioneers from c1800. Panoramic views of this major river from a view point at the top of our biggest hill yet (Catsop Ridge), and info here about John West and his famous salmon canning factory.


Astoria, at the mouth of the Columbia river, is a charming small port, with historic wooden jetties and terrific views of a massive iron road bridge across the estuary. From here 5 miles to Seaside and fog! Apparently this has hung around here all day. This coast is famous for fog, but fingers crossed it lifts sometime soon.


Tour miles to date: 930

Location:Centralia to Seaside

Lakes and forests...

From the 2 ferries taking us back to Port Orchard, we spy seals sunbathing on the channel markers, and then the mountain top cloud dissolves to reveal snow on the majestic peak of Mount Rainier.


After a fine cooked breakfast we wave goodbye, for a flat ride to near the end of the Hood Canal where a pair of Bald eagles are eating fish. Then gentle undulations around lakes, surrounded by fine wooden holiday homes. The traffic is lorry-free as it is Sunday, but fairly busy with holiday traffic, mainly 4x4s pulling caravans or boats. Hand written boards advertise "garage" or "yard" sales. As always, Janet and Ian's smart yellow tandem attracts admiring glances, from the tiny girl who accurately calls it a "double bike", to teenagers saying it's "cool"!
At Shelton we stop outside the library to use their free wifi and replace worn brake blocks before, 5 miles on, reaching our Warmshowers Host, also generously hosting 2 young Americans who have cycled from Maine. Mike helps them repair broken spokes. They explain to us the rules of golf frisbee , involving 3 different sizes of frisbee.
An autumn mist hangs amongst the morning trees, but soon burns off. The easiest road yet, very quiet on a Holiday Monday, (Labour Day). After a river valley of cattle and horse farms, at Elma there is a long cycling and running road race, which confuses us as they are going in both directions!
We bump into the two American cyclists again at Oakville, and reach Centralia by 4pm. The very basic camp site was also very cheap and VERY close to the busy freight line, so we expect to be woken early by the loud hooting at crossings.


After our evening meal, we hone our frisbee skills with a large lid from a giant yoghurt pot, leftover from our dessert.


Tour miles to date: 794

Location:Seattle to Centralia

The Olympic Peninsula...

The 'Lonely Planet' guide describes the road today as "undulating", but we all find it very hilly, however worth it for the startling views of the blue waters of Rosario Strait. Crossing a high bridge over the waters of Deception Pass, we look down onto salmon fishermen below.
Around the Whidbey Naval Air Station, fighter jets practice frequent take off and landings with ear splitting roars.
We make good time, just catching the 11.45 ferry to Port Townsend. A lovely little town with a restored high street, of 19th century brick properties, some with old murals.
A few miles further south we camp in a tiny state park (Lower Oak Bay) between a lake and the sea.


An Osprey swoops down to catch three fish as we put up the tents and a Cedar Waxwing, a first for us, clings to reeds. A fisherman with a caravan on a sand spit gives us 2 enormous crabs he has just caught and cooked. He won't accept any payment.
It is chilly the next morning but we are soon warmed by a few more hills. Chestnut-coloured deer are frequently seen in the roadside woods and gardens, and we are then rewarded with expansive views as we reach the enormous floating concrete bridge that crosses the Hood Canal. The bridge is a bit scary as we are on a hard shoulder beside heavy traffic, some of the ride on slippery metal plates. A few miles further on and we hit busy Bremerton, a huge naval base that reminds us of Plymouth. A foot and bike ferry whips us over Puget Sound to small Port Orchard. A final steep hill and we are welcomed by Anita and Neil, and a fantastic view back across the water. The evening is rounded off with a barbecue, in their rear garden, beside a log fire burning in a metal cauldron.
The next morning is a day off the bikes as we catch the ferry to Seattle, in the continuing brilliant sunshine.


The waterfront is buzzing with food outlets and ferry and cruise ship docks. A few streets in is Pike's Place and the enormous old covered market famous for the fish stalls, but also packed with local produce and flower stalls. Nearby is the first ever Starbucks !(1921?)


Tour miles to date: 691

Location:Anacortes to Seattle