Completed Tour miles: 1,083
Location: Clevedon to Exeter
Saturday, 26 May 2012
Swansong...
It is a familiar route home from Clevedon, along the Strawberry Line rail trail, through orchards and across the Somerset levels. I stop to count the cygnets with their parents on a drainage channel - 8! "Our" swans on the Exe had their nest and eggs all swept away by flood waters, days before we set out, so we will see if they have a new batch. We have worked out the best way through Bridgwater, but stopping at so many busy road junctions is still a pain. The canal routes towards Taunton and then Tiverton are a relief from cars. We chat with a young couple of Dutch touring cyclists - with a Bobcat trailer and lots of panniers, heading for Exmoor. A coffee break at Tiverton Parkway station, then eventually the old A38 bypassing Killerton, the fastest way back into the city and home. Are the union jack flags a leftover from the Olyimpic torch route or a welcome home? With our last energies a trip to Sainsburys to restock then sound sleep after today's 88 miles and a memorable 3 weeks in the Brooks saddles.
Completed Tour miles: 1,083
Completed Tour miles: 1,083
Thursday, 24 May 2012
Four Bridges...
Our bikes spend the night in Bridgend Wetherspoon's conference room. We depart at 7.00 once we have manhandled the bikes down in the lift! The early start means missing the rush hour and the Olympic torch melee as it will be running right past Wetherspoons! Coastal mist stays with us all the way to Cardiff, where we find a very accommodating 'greasy spoon' for brekkers. Refuelled, we head on eastward towards Newport with its unique Transporter Bridge. I stop to photograph it, the lights change to red, and so Mike gets on board just as it is departing and I dont. The operator kindly waits for me saying as I get on "your husband offered me money to leave without you" - as if!
On the levels after Newport, we pass a pair of Mute Swans with a family of 4 cygnets. They are the first we've seen this year and hope there are some to greet us on the Exe.
Next we whizz over the Severn bridge. I look down into people's gardens. How awful it must be living right under this terrible noise. In centre span we can feel the bridge flexing.
On the busy dual carriageway just into Blighty a car pulls over, the driver very excited to talk as he is planning to cycle end to end. Then it's onto the sweeping Avonmouth Bridge, with the thundering rush-hour traffic alongside the cycle track. Nearing Clevedon a cycling commuter wants to talk too, with the unique chat up line - "what an attractive front brake system you have!" We finally reach our friend Mike's house for a welcome coffee, shower and delicious evening meal.
Tour miles to date: 995
On the levels after Newport, we pass a pair of Mute Swans with a family of 4 cygnets. They are the first we've seen this year and hope there are some to greet us on the Exe.
Next we whizz over the Severn bridge. I look down into people's gardens. How awful it must be living right under this terrible noise. In centre span we can feel the bridge flexing.
On the busy dual carriageway just into Blighty a car pulls over, the driver very excited to talk as he is planning to cycle end to end. Then it's onto the sweeping Avonmouth Bridge, with the thundering rush-hour traffic alongside the cycle track. Nearing Clevedon a cycling commuter wants to talk too, with the unique chat up line - "what an attractive front brake system you have!" We finally reach our friend Mike's house for a welcome coffee, shower and delicious evening meal.
Tour miles to date: 995
Location: Bridgend to Clevedon
Wednesday, 23 May 2012
We are not alone...
There are a few hills once we wave goodbye to Bill and Lin in the morning, so we are ready for a rest after 20 miles at Kidwelly. The only cafe had a CTC (Cycle Touring Club) sign in the window! It is on a narrow pavement so no room for the bikes, but the lady proprietor tells us to bring them inside! Then two lady touring cyclists from Newport turn up, and we help bring their bikes in too. They have trained it to Fishguard, and cycled over the mountains to Carmarthen, heading on to Swansea tonight. One is on a heavy mountain bike with panniers & a rucksack, so hard work. Soon after this stop we take a forestry path only to find a locked gate at the end. With much muttering we lift our loaded bikes over. In sight are 2 touring cyclists who are thinking of using this route - they have 4 panniers each so we advise them to take the road round. They are Aussies from Queensland, heading for Ireland and then Scotland. They are "warmshowerers" like us so hope they may come our way on their return.
As our route hugs the coast we pass other tourers. Through Swansea and then a bit of a slog past the steel works of Port Talbot and off road through some stately home gardens, smothered in Rhododendrums. They are clearing acres of these "weeds" and spraying the more unsightly Japanese Knotweed, which unfortunately is everywhere. At the end of the gardens are gates that we have to squeeze through with more muttering. After 70 miles we reach Brigend town centre and take the last room in The Wetherspoons, whose chef lets us know he has run out of veg! So veg roast of the day would be roast pots with extra roast pots!
Tour miles to date: 911
As our route hugs the coast we pass other tourers. Through Swansea and then a bit of a slog past the steel works of Port Talbot and off road through some stately home gardens, smothered in Rhododendrums. They are clearing acres of these "weeds" and spraying the more unsightly Japanese Knotweed, which unfortunately is everywhere. At the end of the gardens are gates that we have to squeeze through with more muttering. After 70 miles we reach Brigend town centre and take the last room in The Wetherspoons, whose chef lets us know he has run out of veg! So veg roast of the day would be roast pots with extra roast pots!
Tour miles to date: 911
Location: Llangynog to Bridgend
True Grit...
After a beautiful sunset the night before, we set sail in fog, easing away from the terminal with the fog horn blasting!At least it is flat calm all the way and we use on board wifi to catch with emails. Docking is at 1pm in sun then National Cycle Route 4 takes us through Pembroke docks, and will take us most of the way to England! Mike is also using Bike Hub to design the route, which has been great at keeping us on quiet roads. We take photos where the path takes us through cliff tunnels and then alongside the wide sandy beach at Saundersfoot.
We stop for coffee at Amroth Castle where we had also stopped in 2007. Now the farm roads get really hilly as we move inland, and to make it worse there is new thick grit and gravel top dressing for miles. Generally though a beautiful route in broiling sunshine. We are staying this evening with Bill and Lin , friends of Janet and Ian, who they have shared walking holidays with. They have restored their lovely old farm house, and transformed the 3 acre site to a gorgeous garden which attracts lots of birds in this quiet backwater. A Greater Spotted Woodpecker feeds from the bird table right by the window. Apparently there are also 700(!) Pipestrelle bats in the loft over our bedroom, just recently venturing out after hibernation. The only sound we can detect from the roost is a slight fluttering. Pickles the terrier makes up for the dog chasing episodes we have suffered, with a very friendly welcome and posing in front of the camera every time I get it out. He is a star.
Tour miles to date: 841
We stop for coffee at Amroth Castle where we had also stopped in 2007. Now the farm roads get really hilly as we move inland, and to make it worse there is new thick grit and gravel top dressing for miles. Generally though a beautiful route in broiling sunshine. We are staying this evening with Bill and Lin , friends of Janet and Ian, who they have shared walking holidays with. They have restored their lovely old farm house, and transformed the 3 acre site to a gorgeous garden which attracts lots of birds in this quiet backwater. A Greater Spotted Woodpecker feeds from the bird table right by the window. Apparently there are also 700(!) Pipestrelle bats in the loft over our bedroom, just recently venturing out after hibernation. The only sound we can detect from the roost is a slight fluttering. Pickles the terrier makes up for the dog chasing episodes we have suffered, with a very friendly welcome and posing in front of the camera every time I get it out. He is a star.
Tour miles to date: 841
Location: Rosslare to Llangynog
Tuesday, 22 May 2012
The Slaney...
We have hardly had any rain this trip and today, our last day in Ireland, is wall to wall sunshine. Chris shows us the way off his mountain, pausing for us to take in the panoramic view over Carlow with the Blackstairs
Mountains in the distance. A canal path leads into Carlow, then on to inspect a big Dolmen, looking wonderful surrounded by bright yellow rapeseed. Bye to Chris as we head south down the Slaney river valley, all the way into Wexford harbour where fishing boats line the harbour wall by the old bridge.
From here it's a fast ride down the hard shoulder into Rosslare ferry terminal. Mike nearly bought tickets for the boat to Fishguard by mistake, but they sorted us out with tickets for the following morning 8.45 sailing to Pembroke Dock. After our 80mile ride we only had energy to cycle back up the ramp from the terminal to a welcoming hotel a few yards away. Our bikes happily secured in the empties store, we enjoy dinner in their bar, chatting to a lovely couple from Fermanagh who knew all about the farming scene. They confirm what others had told us that Chinese delegations are currently visiting Ireland to secure supplies of beef, now that their diet is including more meat.
Tour miles to date: 807
Mountains in the distance. A canal path leads into Carlow, then on to inspect a big Dolmen, looking wonderful surrounded by bright yellow rapeseed. Bye to Chris as we head south down the Slaney river valley, all the way into Wexford harbour where fishing boats line the harbour wall by the old bridge.
From here it's a fast ride down the hard shoulder into Rosslare ferry terminal. Mike nearly bought tickets for the boat to Fishguard by mistake, but they sorted us out with tickets for the following morning 8.45 sailing to Pembroke Dock. After our 80mile ride we only had energy to cycle back up the ramp from the terminal to a welcoming hotel a few yards away. Our bikes happily secured in the empties store, we enjoy dinner in their bar, chatting to a lovely couple from Fermanagh who knew all about the farming scene. They confirm what others had told us that Chinese delegations are currently visiting Ireland to secure supplies of beef, now that their diet is including more meat.
Tour miles to date: 807
Location: Carlow to Rosslare
Dogged...
We take the usual farm lanes to start this morning, but also the wide verge down a bigger road, as there were few cars to share it with, being a Sunday. We pause for a coffee break at Delaney's Garage (we resist the temptation to ask after his donkey), and then cross our outbound route again as we enter Abbeyleix. Just outside we are ambushed by 4 dogs waiting for us behind a wall, nearly spilling us onto the road! We had been chased by a few farm dogs earlier, it must be their Sunday sport - one terrier keeping up with me for 100 yds even though I was doing more than 20 mph! The rascal!
We pause at the tiny village of The Swan, that exists because of the big brick factory, mostly derelict now, making just clay drainage pipes. The pub is of course called The Swan Inn. The landlord and 2 customers make us very welcome, explaining the Gaelic football match rules as we watch Galway slaughter Roscommon on the TV. It seems very like Australian rules footie to us - fast and furious. At the top of a forested hill near Carlow is the lovely home of our Warm Showers hosts English Chris and Irish Eilish, and and their two lovely friendly rescue dogs. Their only neighbours are a farm and a few wind turbines, still for our visit as there is not a breath of wind. Chris is a professional photographer, so their house has beautiful photos as well as Asian artifacts from their extensive travels. We sleep like logs after a lovely dinner, mostly from their poly-tunnel vegetable factory!
Tour miles to date: 728
We pause at the tiny village of The Swan, that exists because of the big brick factory, mostly derelict now, making just clay drainage pipes. The pub is of course called The Swan Inn. The landlord and 2 customers make us very welcome, explaining the Gaelic football match rules as we watch Galway slaughter Roscommon on the TV. It seems very like Australian rules footie to us - fast and furious. At the top of a forested hill near Carlow is the lovely home of our Warm Showers hosts English Chris and Irish Eilish, and and their two lovely friendly rescue dogs. Their only neighbours are a farm and a few wind turbines, still for our visit as there is not a breath of wind. Chris is a professional photographer, so their house has beautiful photos as well as Asian artifacts from their extensive travels. We sleep like logs after a lovely dinner, mostly from their poly-tunnel vegetable factory!
Tour miles to date: 728
Location:Birr to Carlow
Sunday, 20 May 2012
For the love of peat...
At first we had thought that our Ballinsloe B&B smelt of cigar smoke, then realised the house was smelling from the peat fire. There is only one other guest, and the owner tells us how the whole town is so quiet since the motorway was built 3 years ago, making it too easy to whizz pass the centre of Ireland. They still get packed out with visitors in October though, when the largest horse fair in Ireland is held here. She says people come there "even though they can't tell one end of the horse from the other!". We have allowed ourselves short mileage today to see the sights, starting with the village of Shannonbridge, which does what it says, with an ancient 15 arch stone bridge.
It being a Saturday there are fishermen in waders in the wide Shannon waters. Heading north west from here, a hare pops onto the road 20 metres ahead, stops momentarily for a look at us, then shoots back into the field alongside. Next stop is the 6c priory ruins at Clonmacnoise, and from the hills here we have views for miles along the meandering river. There is a private railway for the mini-engine pulling the trucks of peat from the mechanically stripped bog to the nearby processing factory, where they are compressed into the briquettes sold at all garages. I remember us using the very same at home in Belfast in the 1960s. In the local paper we follow the story of how the EU has banned the removal of peat from many areas from the 1st of Jan this year. There are strong protests, as peat is still used by so many homes around here.
Heading south we pass a lone fully-laden touring cyclist and exchange greetings, his accent hinting at Netherlands or Scandinavia.
We are then back at the beautiful old B&B in the centre of Birr , lucky to secure the last room as they are taking overflow guests from another wedding at Doolys Hotel opposite. The main street is full of small businesses, not quite such an embarrassment of pubs and betting shops as our last stop, but more than enough pharmacies, hinting at a tendency to hypochondria. There are terraces of fine Georgian houses, all retaining their sash windows and handsome front doors.
We explore Birr Castle gardens, which are full of wonderful mature trees and an astonishing enormous 72 inch wooden telescope built by the 3rd Earl of Rosse in the 1840s. It was the biggest telescope in the world for 70 years.
Over the river is a suspension bridge, the oldest in Ireland, a small prototype for the Avon bridge. As a bonus we spot a family of Goldcrests in the bushes against the castle wall, a first sighting for Mike of the smallest bird in the UK & Ireland.
After all this we enjoy the roast of the day at Doolys, whilst watching on their TV Leinster playing rugby against Ulster in the exciting Twickenham Heineken Cup Final.
Tour miles to date: 676
It being a Saturday there are fishermen in waders in the wide Shannon waters. Heading north west from here, a hare pops onto the road 20 metres ahead, stops momentarily for a look at us, then shoots back into the field alongside. Next stop is the 6c priory ruins at Clonmacnoise, and from the hills here we have views for miles along the meandering river. There is a private railway for the mini-engine pulling the trucks of peat from the mechanically stripped bog to the nearby processing factory, where they are compressed into the briquettes sold at all garages. I remember us using the very same at home in Belfast in the 1960s. In the local paper we follow the story of how the EU has banned the removal of peat from many areas from the 1st of Jan this year. There are strong protests, as peat is still used by so many homes around here.
Heading south we pass a lone fully-laden touring cyclist and exchange greetings, his accent hinting at Netherlands or Scandinavia.
We are then back at the beautiful old B&B in the centre of Birr , lucky to secure the last room as they are taking overflow guests from another wedding at Doolys Hotel opposite. The main street is full of small businesses, not quite such an embarrassment of pubs and betting shops as our last stop, but more than enough pharmacies, hinting at a tendency to hypochondria. There are terraces of fine Georgian houses, all retaining their sash windows and handsome front doors.
We explore Birr Castle gardens, which are full of wonderful mature trees and an astonishing enormous 72 inch wooden telescope built by the 3rd Earl of Rosse in the 1840s. It was the biggest telescope in the world for 70 years.
Over the river is a suspension bridge, the oldest in Ireland, a small prototype for the Avon bridge. As a bonus we spot a family of Goldcrests in the bushes against the castle wall, a first sighting for Mike of the smallest bird in the UK & Ireland.
After all this we enjoy the roast of the day at Doolys, whilst watching on their TV Leinster playing rugby against Ulster in the exciting Twickenham Heineken Cup Final.
Tour miles to date: 676
Location:Ballinasloe to Birr
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