Crossing the border...

Musician Howard looks after us really well and waves us off at 8.00 next morning to meet up with Janet and Ian. The cycle route passes along under the raised concrete track that the Skytrain runs on, then through a Sikh residential area of Strawberry Hills, before finally reaching farmland. The traffic is heavy all the way to the USA border. We queue for 3/4 hrs to be processed and are allowed through! High Five !
The farm roads are much quieter now, with big Dutch timber barns, and crops of blueberry, corn , apples and potatoes.
Our host in Bellingham, Stephanie, lives in a traditional wooden bungalow, painted egg blue, surrounded by veggie gardens and chickens. She is invited to a "Potluck" supper at a friends house, so takes us too! The evening of delicious home made food is rounded of by a sort of game of charades, that broke down any national barriers!
A dazzling blue Stellar Jay annoys the chickens as we leave, next morning. Bellingham is a really charming historic town, freight trains hooting as they trundle past, but cars not, even though we accidentally ride the wrong way up the main street!


There is a fantastic new cycle track, built out on wooden trestle bridges in places, for miles from the town, then we are on the edge of one of the most scenic roads we have ever travelled, Chuckanut drive, snaking along the edge of the tree covered cliffs above a bay edged with oyster beds. The road is very quiet with lots of view points.Then it is across a flat farming plain, and we arrive at Anacortes. We check out the town, then ride south down the coast to where the view from our Warmshowers host's (Mike M) house is wonderful.





Tour miles to date: 600

Location:Vancouver to Anacortes

More friends reunited!...

Hosts Jan and Rick's house is perched on a hillside in North Vancouver, with magnificent views to the southwest (Mount Baker, 3285 metres high and 100 miles away can be seen!) and treetops, great for bird watching - especially the hummingbirds. They have been on lots of "bike and boat" holidays, which sound a great idea, accommodation on a small cruise boat which stops at lots of biking destinations, especially good for island-filled countries like Croatia.
They watched a bear visiting their garden recently! We were hoping for his return but no luck.


Jan takes us for a walk in a mountain forest park called Lynn Canyon - dotted with water falls and a vertiginous suspension walkway over a very deep gorge.


She also arranges for us to join her and 2 cycling friends for a bike tour of Vancouver's Gastown, a pretty, historic centre with a steam-driven clock, and Chinatown (the biggest one in the world outside China).
In the afternoon we meet up with Janet and Ian, unmistakeable on their new yellow tandem. Then we go off to our separate WarmShowers hosts for the evening, arranging to meet in the morning to head for the border!


Tour miles to date: 492

Location:Vancouver

Friends reunited...

The traffic becomes heavy now, folks making the most of a very sunny Saturday, 4x4s whizzing past trailing boats, massive camper vans and still the occasional logging lorry. All the buses have bike racks on the front, often filled with bikes. We love the way an assortment of castoff old chairs are left at bus stops for prospective passengers to rest on.
It is a relief to turn of to a quieter residential area of Gibson to the home of Renie and Jerry, their bungalow backing on to tranquil woods. They have recently cycled the Oregon coast and confirm what others say that it is very picturesque. On TV we watch the very exciting Spanish Tour, where the cyclists effortlessly power up into Andorra. Away early for a 10k ride to our 7th ferry, back to Horseshoe Bay.
We meet up for coffee with Erin and Dave in West Vancouver as they are up here from Victoria for the weekend.


They take us on a bicycle tour of the waterfront with great views of the city over the water, seals , a vintage car rally and finish up at massive waterside Lonsdale market in North Vancouver. After sampling the endless choices in the food hall we are attracted by a big band playing on a nearby square. It is a Seniors Strawberry tea dance. Lots of oldies are energetically jiving to a band. The whole area has been renovated to include parks, cafes and shops to a really high standard, and is full of families in the sun.


Tour miles to date: 471

Location:Sechelt to Vancouver

Back to the mainland...

Our Nanoose host, Peter has a house is right on the beach, picture windows taking in the entire Bay and islands and mountains beyond. Canada Geese wander on his beach - a dream location.


Dinner is taken facing the setting sun, salmon straight out of a local river.
After breakfast of crepes and eggs, Peter leads us a forest and beach road route to set us well on our way to the ferry back to the mainland. Off the ferry at Powell River around 5pm we head south along the undulating coast road through forests, glimpsing sea views. After a couple of road kill deer we spot some live ones and then an Elk crosses in front! After a days ride of 82 miles we are at Saltery Bay. Our campsite pitch is lovely, very quiet, set deep amongst mature trees and ferns, a short walk from the ocean.


We break camp at dawn to catch the 7.15 ferry that sails close round picturesque Nelson island, across a wide river mouth - our 6th ferry. Then an undulating ride, sometimes with and sometimes without a hard shoulder. It amuses us that, at any roadworks, attractive young ladies are employed to control traffic with the stop/go boards - better than the hairy contractors back home. We pause at inlets to look for the local turtles but are out of luck.

Location:Nanoose Bay to Sechelt

Island hopping...

With no light pollution in this sparsely inhabited spot, our garden camp night sky is crammed full of stars. A surrounding 2.5 metre high wooden fence keeps the deer from the fruit trees and Tiger lilies.
After fond farewells in the morning, it is a hilly ride north across the island to the Capital, Ganges. The prettiest town yet, traditional wooden houses and a harbour full of yachts. We pass vineyards and apple orchards on the way to the ferry, with only spasmodic traffic every time a ferry docks.
Back on Vancouver Island, we retrace our way up Chemainus Road and on to Cedar Road. Sometimes having to pedal on the shoulder of the main road, we are passed by very, very, long logging lorries!
Hosts Dorothy and Bob live on a small farm, with young Sadie, the very friendly coyote-Sheepdog cross, old Roxy (another dog), 5 Alpacas (for lawn mowing duties) and 20 laying hens, in a henhouse straight out of "Chicken Run". They own a big Bike shop in Nanaimo and have toured lots, including West Coast, Costa Rica and Mexico.
Next morning we continue north, calling in on their bike shop for expert help as Mike's front brake cable needs replacing. A bit more on a shoulder of a busy road is unavoidable as the mountains come right down to the water's edge, leaving room for only one road. The stunning coastal views make it all worthwhile. Eventually onto a quieter forest route at Nanoose Bay. Canada Geese skimming over the water and 2 Bald Eagles pass a few feet away! The back drop is of forested mountains on the mainland, the highest still snow capped.





We stop to admire the Eagles and photograph a stripy snake slithering across the grass.





Tour miles to date: 307

Other birds today - Turkey Vultures and Chickadees feeding on Dorothy's Sunflowers.

Location:Salt Spring Island to Nanoose Bay

Lochside Trail...

We are wending our way back north now, taking a detour via Salt Spring Island. The island ferry leaves from Sidney at the top of the Peninsula. The route to there starts out on the Galloping Goose trail, and then takes the coast as the Lochside trail, all on gravel surfaces that are level and easy to pedal. About halfway the forests open out to farmland with our coffee stop at a farm shop.




Coming off the lunchtime ferry onto Salt Spring, we are spotted by Darcy, a friend of Erin and Dave (the union jack flags on our racks are a give away). He owns a bike shop right by the jetty and directs to his nearby house where youngsters Isiah, Abe, Eve and Tiger Lily make us very welcome.




Bird report - Bald eagle , Red-tailed Hawk.
Tour miles to date: 236

Location:Victoria to Salt Spring Island

Galloping Goose...

A short ferry ride deposits us on the Saanich peninsula and an easy ride down to Victoria to stay with Erin, Dave and kids. This is the first use of our new tent when we pitch in their back garden, and we are their very first Warm Shower guests.


Dave and Erin are food and wine experts, so dinner is a local halibut feast. Staying two nights, we can cycle without the panniers next day, and their teenage son John (a future Olympian track cyclist) finds time in his busy training schedule to lead us out to the start of the Galloping Goose bike trail. It is nearly all on rail trails, 30 miles north and then west through the ubiquitous forests and over wooden bridges. Finally along a stunning sea inlet shore to Sooke, a town named after the local Native tribe. We celebrate with bison burgers. Good birding with a family of California Quails, an Osprey, and too many American Robins to count.


It is an easy run back with only a few other cyclists and dog walkers sharing the trail.
The good weather we have had since we landed is forecast to stay with us for at least the next couple of days.


Tour miles to date: 216

Location:Mill Bay to Victoria

Show & shine...

Saturday, and Barry and Dave (a local cycling club mate) lead us the first dozen miles south, taking rail trails and back roads, then safely onto long Cedar Road.
As always we are surrounded by fir forest, as we pass the entrance to native Indian reserves and reach little Ladysmith by lunch. We had wondered why so many classic cars had been passing us, and discover them now, lining the streets. It is the 7th annual "Show and Shine". The main street is closed to traffic with crowds admiring the polished Chevis, Cadillacs and Thunderbirds (& our 2 Thorn tourers!).


Next on a coast road to the small town of Duncan and a little way up the Cowichan Valley. Our hosts here have had a hectic day as their marvellous garden has been open to the public, showcasing Permaculture methods. Their typical white painted timber house is in a breathtaking setting surrounded by forest, under a mountain backdrop.
In the morning we wi-fi in Duncan before heading down to Mill Bay for the ferry to the peninsula where Victoria the Capitol of British Columbia sits. On the way we pass lots of vineyards and a lavender farm. Being a Sunday cheery groups of cyclists whizz past. Waiting for the ferry we watch seals and a Belted Kingfisher.


Tour miles to date: 123

Location:Nanaimo to Duncan

Island bound...

Friday morning John thinks he is reassuring, informing us the cougar that attacked a boy on Vancouver Island has been caught. I expect there are lots more cougars that might like a tasty cyclist!
We join the morning commuters cycling north over Lions Gate Bridge. Giving the busy main road a miss, we follow quieter Marine Drive, undulating through the welcome shade of pine trees. At Horseshoe Bay we wait for the lunchtime ferry to Vancouver Island. It is difficult to think of a more picturesque setting, the steep forested mountains, plunging into a dark blue bay, dotted with small boats.


The boat was far bigger than we had imagined - the size of the Rosslare ferry! 1hr 40 mins on flat calm passing close to small islands and then we pedal off onto a car choked dual carriageway! Extricating ourselves from this and fuelled more by enthusiasm than commonsense we head for a lake which turns out to be at the top of a VERY steep, VERY long climb - I am not ashamed to report that I push the bike the last 100metres. We are rewarded with a lovely ride back down Jingle Pots Road, through forest and farms, reminiscent of Switzerland. Our Nanaimo host, Barry, has cycled all over Europe, so we have many tales to swop.


Tour miles to date: 73

Location:Vancouver to Nanaimo

Meeting Stanley...

John take us on a guided cycle of of the top spots in Vancouver today. We share the cycle routes with throngs of bikers enjoying the fabulous weather. A dedicated path leads us to the Lost Lagoon, and then 10 miles around the picturesque shores of famous Stanley Park, glimpsing a Bald Eagle as a bonus. Seaplanes swoop in and out of the main harbour as we visit Downtown and then Granville Island for the busy covered market. It is easy to see why Vancouver is always voted one of the most attractive cities in the world.


In the evening M and J drive us to to the shore at Spanish Banks for a barbie as the sun sets into the sea. We could not have had better hosts for our introduction to this gorgeous area.


Tour miles to date: 36

Location:Vancouver

Well, we got here...

We have arrived in Vancouver with everything going smoothly! High 5! Leaving the bikes with the man in charge of "extra big luggage" at Heathrow, we wondered whether they would make it onto the plane, but there they were, unscathed in their plastic bags. Locals Margaret and John had cycled to meet us and helped in the reassembling - reattaching handle bars and pedals and re-inflating tyres, before leading us to their home, via tree lined residential roads.The backdrop of snow tipped mountains and cloudless blue sky was breathtaking.


Tour miles to date: 9 (well you've got to start somewhere!)

Location:Vancouver

Pacific West Coast Tour 2012

In the final preparation stage now for our next tour. We fly to Vancouver, Canada, on Wednesday next & after a mini-tour to Vancouver Island, we will meet Janet & Ian on their tandem to set off south down the Pacific West Coast route.

J&I will be with us until San Francisco, when they fly back to the UK. We will carry on to Los Angeles & the Mexican border at San Diego, then a short inland return to LA to stay with Harriet before returning to the UK in November.

Have done some last-minute reading on cycling in USA. Included in the list of 'problems & annoyances' are bears (grizzly & black), mountain lions (aka pumas & cougars), poisonous snakes & venomous spiders! So, just marginally more dangerous than riding out with the local Bike Bus then.

Hopefully the next blog will be from across the Pond, sometime after 15th August.