By 800 metres we are approaching the town of Reinosa, surrounded by snow topped mountains, then take a small, empty, flat road for the last ten miles to the tiny farming hamlet of Abiado. Climbing a final hill, storks flap overhead and foals on the road are chased away by a billy goat protecting a kid. A local farmer drives past holding the reins of a very large horse through his side window.
Our Warm Shower hosts are Marta, Icar and beautiful baby Noa who live in a restored stone cottage at the top of the village. Chatting with 2 local school girls whom Marta is teaching English, we are surprised to find these sisters holiday each year in Nerja, (near Malaga) where we have English friends. We finish the day with a walk up the hill behind the house, under the imposing Sierra de Cordel. Icar tells us there are Wolves and Bear here!
We throw open the shutters in the morning to an idyll. Tiny fields surrounded by stone walls keep in brown cows and their tiny calfs, and a sliver of mist lies in the valley bottom under blue skies. Breakfast is a feast - home made yoghurt and bread, local honey, porridge and fruit, then we take the cycle path back to Reinosa, (past the Billy goat again). We pause in a wood to note the source of the great River Ebro, which in 2007 we followed all the way to the Med.
An easy undulating ride south follows, still on our quiet N611, never without a bird overhead, either stork, vulture, harrier or the ubiquitous red and black kites. Mike is in birding heaven.
At Alar del Rey we join the sandy track alongside the Canal de Castille for a peaceful pedal past locks, ancient stone bridges and mainly derelict lock-keepers cottages.
The campsite at Herra de Pisquera has closed, so we take a room at a very friendly Hostelry, with a balcony overlooking the river, and take advantage of the endless hot water and sunshine to wash some clothes. Even our bikes are given their own secure room. All this pampering for 36 euros.
Miles to date: 158
Location:Santander to Herrera de Pisuerga
