Apart from that it is a fabulous place, encircled by two walls, enclosing a warren of twisty streets, where ancient doors are embellished with ornate carvings and knockers, and not a tourist in sight.
Next morning there is still a head wind at first, but this disappears as we gain height into the hills alongside the Douro. Wild lavender in full flower competes with roses in the tiny fields, then it turns into a Dartmoor landscape of granite field boundaries and monolithic slabs.
The Douro has carved a deep ravine through the granite plateau, now a Natural Park. We finally sweep down to cross it on a reservoir dam, as we enter Portugal. High on the cliff in front is our first Portuguese town, Miranda do Douro.
Having just mastered rudimentary Spanish, we are now grappling with a whole new set of words, where no one speaks English! "Nâo" = no, and "Sim" = yes, is about all we can manage, but this does not prevent us booking into the best room in town, the balcony overlooking a dramatic bend in the river, with the Cathedral on a nearby bluff.
Miles to date:- 364
Location:Toro to Miranda do Doura
