Another gorgeous morning as we leave the village past lots of little bodegas where the villagers used to store their wine in these semi underground stores, many now derelict. We cross the Rio Duero for one more time at San Esteban de Gormaz. A few miles east we inspect El Burgo. You would think we have seen enough ancient walled towns, but this one is particularly well preserved, with metal balconies at every window, hand made bricks, and stone and timber colonnades. Despite all this the Cathedral Plaza is deserted.
After a few miles down a main valley road we head north on an empty side road through an uncultivated area of pines, under grown with heathers and orchids. We gradually gain height, coming out at a view point on the top of a high escarpment, looking down onto the red rooftops of the village of Abejar. The lady proprietor at our afternoon coffee here
confounds us by returning to the bar in few minutes in a different t- shirt, then both identical twins emerge together and the mystery is solved. They take down their calendar so we can show them the progress of our tour. Just down the road Griffen Vultures are feeding on something in a field of spring corn, yards from us. About 30 others circle low over our heads.
Our WS host lives in a little Puebla near Soria. We had wondered why we did not have a street address for him but soon see none of the village roads have any names (most had no tarmac) or numbers. The houses were in lovely honey coloured stone, most lovingly restored. We arrange to meet Fernando at the only bus stop. He has built his house recently, but it blends in well with the older houses. The log burner is an amazing stylish Italian design in red tiles, concealing a small oven! Fernando has cycled in Nepal China and Iran. He and girl friend Gemma are planning a month in Japan next.
We set off early next morning as we have a few miles on a busy road into Soria, over the rio Duero for the last time on a narrow cobbled bridge. Then a fantastic country road, above the cultivated area rising up to 4000 ft for most of the day, through pines under grown with herbs and lavender. In a tiny Puebla with a fancy sign showing the temperature is a chill 13 degs. we join 2 logging lorry drivers and 2 local painters in the bar for Menu del Dia. The main course is a choice of rabbit or goat. Three courses, a bottle of red wine and coffee for 10 euros each.
Then down hill into the valley of the rio Ebro and the hill top town of Tarazona.
Miles to date:- 1491
Location:Peñalba to Tarazona
