Commercially sensitive Santa chose Sunday evening to visit the children of Nerja. As the streets were closed to traffic, he would have been too disruptive on a weekday.
He set off with his large entourage from the Town Hall. There were so many elves, that 2 large 'sleighs' were needed, given a helping hand by the local farmers & their tractors. You could tell where Santa had passed, as great heaps of ticker tape littered the pavement. You could tell where he was by the cacophany of the Children's Band leading him back to the Balcon De Europa. The drum section was particularly noisy. Sweets, from bags the size of pillowcases, were thrown to children lining the route (but Sue did not manage to catch any!)
Fortunately it was a mild dry evening as, by the time Santa sat down on his throne in front of the Church of San Salvador, there was an orderly queue of every child in Nerja. It took Santa an hour to 'meet & greet'. He will have to be a bit slicker on his global big night, but it was a good dry run!
We enjoyed our favourite Frigiliana cycle ride again this week, although there were a few more motorcyclists about due to the holidays - Santa needs to bring some of them cycle helmets! Also saw our walking friends Mike & Roz in 'Irish Annies', a local bar where Mike & some chums play folk music & the Guiness is keptwell.
Wonderful to be able to spend Christmas Eve lunch eating a fantastic Paella on the beach in the sun.
As we won't have access to the internet tomorrow, we will take this opportunity to wish everyone a Merry Christmas & Happy New Year.
FELIZ NAVIDAD!!!
Monday 24 December 2007
Friday 21 December 2007
Local Entertainments
Repeated the walk into the rio Chillar from Capistrano - thought we ought to make sure we know where we are going as we may take visitors there! Just as well as we got lost near the end & ended up on a very slippy steep slope. We promise to take future walkers the right route! Sue was very grateful for the use of a walking pole loaned to her over Christmas by Gill.
We passed the Ox-Man - a local who has a pair of oxen hitched to a plough which he uses instead of a tractor on the inaccessable parts of local fields. They look very smart, with red tassel fringes (just the oxen, not the man).
We went to see the latest Harry Potter film in english with spanish subtitles, in the Cultural Centre in Nerja. Only about 25 in the audience. Great not to have all the dross of adverts before the film, just a little low-budget Spanish film so well made we could understand it without knowing the language. Took in the B&W photo exhibition in the lobby of the Centre - 50's & 60's shots of Nerja & inhabitants. Roads having cobbles laid, women fetching water from the various town communal supply points.
Our Caretaker at the Flats has found other distractions from clearing the leaves out of his beloved fountains. He has installed a string of yellow flashing lights over the access gate, & spent the good part of a day up a ladder trying to coax his cat down from the large tree at the entrance. As usual, in Spain, he soon attracted an audience of local men who seem to have nothing else to do. We wondered how long it would be before he resorted to his trusty chainsaw!
We were fortunate to attend "Luces de Invierno" (Lights of Winter) performed in a small 16thC chapel. A gorgeous church incorporating lots of gold filigree, but not gaudy. The ladies choir sang 16th century songs in English, French, Spanish, Latin and German, accompanied by a cellist, violins and flamenco guitars - very professional. The chapel was packed - and finished with a moving rendition of Silent Night sung by the audience in a variety of languages.
We are getting in the Christmas spirit, & are looking forward to seeing Santa when he visits Nerja on Sunday. We have been told to put sweets & a note at the door of the Church (Sue v hopeful will produce results!) Hopefully his reindeer won't tangle with the oxen, could be messy!!!
We passed the Ox-Man - a local who has a pair of oxen hitched to a plough which he uses instead of a tractor on the inaccessable parts of local fields. They look very smart, with red tassel fringes (just the oxen, not the man).
We went to see the latest Harry Potter film in english with spanish subtitles, in the Cultural Centre in Nerja. Only about 25 in the audience. Great not to have all the dross of adverts before the film, just a little low-budget Spanish film so well made we could understand it without knowing the language. Took in the B&W photo exhibition in the lobby of the Centre - 50's & 60's shots of Nerja & inhabitants. Roads having cobbles laid, women fetching water from the various town communal supply points.
Our Caretaker at the Flats has found other distractions from clearing the leaves out of his beloved fountains. He has installed a string of yellow flashing lights over the access gate, & spent the good part of a day up a ladder trying to coax his cat down from the large tree at the entrance. As usual, in Spain, he soon attracted an audience of local men who seem to have nothing else to do. We wondered how long it would be before he resorted to his trusty chainsaw!
We were fortunate to attend "Luces de Invierno" (Lights of Winter) performed in a small 16thC chapel. A gorgeous church incorporating lots of gold filigree, but not gaudy. The ladies choir sang 16th century songs in English, French, Spanish, Latin and German, accompanied by a cellist, violins and flamenco guitars - very professional. The chapel was packed - and finished with a moving rendition of Silent Night sung by the audience in a variety of languages.
We are getting in the Christmas spirit, & are looking forward to seeing Santa when he visits Nerja on Sunday. We have been told to put sweets & a note at the door of the Church (Sue v hopeful will produce results!) Hopefully his reindeer won't tangle with the oxen, could be messy!!!
Sunday 16 December 2007
Nearing Christmas
12/12 - approximately 20 people on today's walk, including 1 Canadian lady, escaping the wet & cold winter of Nova Scotia. A ridge walk to the viewpoint of Cruz De Pinto. The shrine here built by a grateful sea captain & his crew after their miraculous escape from a ship wreck on these shores. A steep, slippy descent to a country road & the rio Chillar, spotting a Short-toed Eagle on the way.
We are so used to Spanish ways that we no longer remark when a car, delivery van or motorbike drives along the riverbed! It can't do the vehicles any good, but everybody does it. There are numerous properties to which this is the only access.
13/12 - exploring by bicycle country lanes north of Nerja. A few promising routes came to nothing, but all passing interesting little farms. Ate our picnic lunch at a well-tended shrine to the Virgen of Lourdes. Most of the avocado crop now picked, but there are plenty of oranges & lemons still on the trees, & bananas coming on behind.
14/12 - walked up rio Chillar & Hiqueron riverbeds, then by road up to the Castillo above Frigiliana, & back down to the village by wonderful windey cobbled streets.
15/12 - walked to Burriana Beach & up to Maro road, finding a little footpath back via fields. Noticed a few more holidaymakers about including children (school hols already?). Visited the very friendly Spanish lady owner of the Hotel Regina where we stayed when we arrived in Nerja. Joined her in the bar to watch a terrible Spanish soap. It made Eastenders look cheerful. It was obvious to our hostess we were not taking it seriously, so she gave us an old-fashioned look & assured us that the programme was "muy romantica"!
16/12 - 1st cloudy day for weeks! Cycled coast road to La Herredura, trying to spot mountain road turnoff recommended by Gill. Eventually found it obscured by roadworks,but no time to explore it on this trip - will definitely return now we know where it is.
Stopped for usual wonderful sea view at Cerro Gordo - searching with binoculars the natural park cliff slopes below the road for ibex. After spotting none we gave up & turned to our bikes, to see a family group of 6 ibex close by on the slopes above, silently watching us (no doubt wondering what we were looking for!)
We are so used to Spanish ways that we no longer remark when a car, delivery van or motorbike drives along the riverbed! It can't do the vehicles any good, but everybody does it. There are numerous properties to which this is the only access.
13/12 - exploring by bicycle country lanes north of Nerja. A few promising routes came to nothing, but all passing interesting little farms. Ate our picnic lunch at a well-tended shrine to the Virgen of Lourdes. Most of the avocado crop now picked, but there are plenty of oranges & lemons still on the trees, & bananas coming on behind.
14/12 - walked up rio Chillar & Hiqueron riverbeds, then by road up to the Castillo above Frigiliana, & back down to the village by wonderful windey cobbled streets.
15/12 - walked to Burriana Beach & up to Maro road, finding a little footpath back via fields. Noticed a few more holidaymakers about including children (school hols already?). Visited the very friendly Spanish lady owner of the Hotel Regina where we stayed when we arrived in Nerja. Joined her in the bar to watch a terrible Spanish soap. It made Eastenders look cheerful. It was obvious to our hostess we were not taking it seriously, so she gave us an old-fashioned look & assured us that the programme was "muy romantica"!
16/12 - 1st cloudy day for weeks! Cycled coast road to La Herredura, trying to spot mountain road turnoff recommended by Gill. Eventually found it obscured by roadworks,but no time to explore it on this trip - will definitely return now we know where it is.
Stopped for usual wonderful sea view at Cerro Gordo - searching with binoculars the natural park cliff slopes below the road for ibex. After spotting none we gave up & turned to our bikes, to see a family group of 6 ibex close by on the slopes above, silently watching us (no doubt wondering what we were looking for!)
Tuesday 11 December 2007
Local News
The local papers make interesting reading - there is always some local authority scandal with a mayor being locked up for some misdemeanour or other. This week it was the turn of our neighbouring village of La Herradura - the sports centre has been built on protected land, so the mayor may have to pay for it to be demolished and be banned for life from public office!
The same paper explained the new penalty points system for drivers - amongst one of the more severe offences is "putting a cyclist at risk" - no wonder the drivers are all so careful to avoid us!
There is a general election here in March 2008 - both main parties are hoping to win votes with reduced tax and higher pensions (wonder who is going to pay for that?) Global warming is not high on their agenda. Spain is the EUs worst polluter with regard to carbon emmissions, but the opposition leader seems less than convinced on Global Warming (to quote) - "they can't tell me what the weather will be in Seville tomorrow, so why should I believe their forecast for 300 years time"! (In case you are interested the Spanish PM is the one who looks like Mr Bean).
The Christmas lights are on now in town - though quite a few bulbs have gone out already - electrics are not a Spanish strong point. Poinsettas are planted in all the roundabouts and municipal flower beds, and do look smart.
Our usual mix of cycling & walking this week again, in continued sunny weather. Animals spotted were black squirrel, ibex & a merlin.Walking chum Graham was convinced that every minor ground scraping was evidence of recent activity by wild boar hunting for food, however we have not heard or seen these beasts (yet!) As we near Christmas our local friends are preparing to return to the UK, abandoning us for the holiday. Any excuse for a meal out, we had an "Abandonment Lunch" with them on Monday, in a very Spanish local restaurant - great food, wine & company.
Final word this week goes to our improving Spanish - we learnt the word for "retirement" in Spanish is "Jubilacion" - very appropriate, as we are thoroughly celebrating ours!!!
The same paper explained the new penalty points system for drivers - amongst one of the more severe offences is "putting a cyclist at risk" - no wonder the drivers are all so careful to avoid us!
There is a general election here in March 2008 - both main parties are hoping to win votes with reduced tax and higher pensions (wonder who is going to pay for that?) Global warming is not high on their agenda. Spain is the EUs worst polluter with regard to carbon emmissions, but the opposition leader seems less than convinced on Global Warming (to quote) - "they can't tell me what the weather will be in Seville tomorrow, so why should I believe their forecast for 300 years time"! (In case you are interested the Spanish PM is the one who looks like Mr Bean).
The Christmas lights are on now in town - though quite a few bulbs have gone out already - electrics are not a Spanish strong point. Poinsettas are planted in all the roundabouts and municipal flower beds, and do look smart.
Our usual mix of cycling & walking this week again, in continued sunny weather. Animals spotted were black squirrel, ibex & a merlin.Walking chum Graham was convinced that every minor ground scraping was evidence of recent activity by wild boar hunting for food, however we have not heard or seen these beasts (yet!) As we near Christmas our local friends are preparing to return to the UK, abandoning us for the holiday. Any excuse for a meal out, we had an "Abandonment Lunch" with them on Monday, in a very Spanish local restaurant - great food, wine & company.
Final word this week goes to our improving Spanish - we learnt the word for "retirement" in Spanish is "Jubilacion" - very appropriate, as we are thoroughly celebrating ours!!!
Monday 3 December 2007
Coast & countryside
27/11/07 - cycled N340 east to Herredura & around old coast road, avoiding nasty tunnel. Natural coast park area known as Cerro Gordo. No traffic & wonderful sea views. Lots of sightings of ibex.
28/11 - Gill & Andrew gave us a lift to the hill village of Competa, where we had time to look around the lovely village square & cobbled streets before meeting up with a walking group they have introduced us to. Mike (another one!) & Ros led the 16 strong group up to a local summit with fine views from a Firewatch Hut. John in the group, (recently moved with wife Liz from Poole) is a very keen racing cyclist. He hopes to introduce us to some cycling routes. He has 4 bikes including a carbon fibre one that can be lifted with one finger - just a tad lighter than ours then!!! Hope we can keep up with him!
29/11 - cycled west along N340 to Torrox Costa via short detour into local hills. Then a few blissful hours on the beach promenade people/fishing boat-watching.
Each evening this week we have watched terrific sunsets at around 6pm over the sea, a back-drop to local men fishing off the rocks.
30/11 - took the bus to Frigiliana & walked a well-marked mountain path to the peak known as El Fuerte (The Fort) at 1005metres. Evidence of recent forest fires as all the trees on 2 slopes were burnt & dead. The herb undergrowth, lemon thyme & rosemary, have regrown.
01/12 - cycled our favourite route out north west past Frigiliana to the shrine of "Our Lady of Monserrat". Ate in the evening at the restaurant adjacent to the gates of our apartment block, newly re-opened after a 2-week refurbishment. Very pleasant & friendly staff.
02/12 - cycled out to Cerro Gordo again, & this time took the new road down to the beach. Lots of locals sunbathing in this very sheltered spot. The road up was too steep to cycle, so a long hot push.
03/12 - the tasteful Christmas lights are up in town, but not switched on yet (how sensible). We have splashed out 75cents on a tiny Santa to hang on our patio!!!
Our apartment block is called "Las Fuentes" (The Fountains). One week after our moving in on 01/11/07, the Caretaker drained down the extensive fountains which are the key (only!) feature of the complex. He has since painstakingly cleaned them out & repainted them. At long last today he refilled them & turned them on again, much to our delight & that of all the little birds who inhabit our orange trees. He has now however, taken his chainsaw to the beautifully flowering hibiscus bushes! (Alan Titchmarsh he is not!)
28/11 - Gill & Andrew gave us a lift to the hill village of Competa, where we had time to look around the lovely village square & cobbled streets before meeting up with a walking group they have introduced us to. Mike (another one!) & Ros led the 16 strong group up to a local summit with fine views from a Firewatch Hut. John in the group, (recently moved with wife Liz from Poole) is a very keen racing cyclist. He hopes to introduce us to some cycling routes. He has 4 bikes including a carbon fibre one that can be lifted with one finger - just a tad lighter than ours then!!! Hope we can keep up with him!
29/11 - cycled west along N340 to Torrox Costa via short detour into local hills. Then a few blissful hours on the beach promenade people/fishing boat-watching.
Each evening this week we have watched terrific sunsets at around 6pm over the sea, a back-drop to local men fishing off the rocks.
30/11 - took the bus to Frigiliana & walked a well-marked mountain path to the peak known as El Fuerte (The Fort) at 1005metres. Evidence of recent forest fires as all the trees on 2 slopes were burnt & dead. The herb undergrowth, lemon thyme & rosemary, have regrown.
01/12 - cycled our favourite route out north west past Frigiliana to the shrine of "Our Lady of Monserrat". Ate in the evening at the restaurant adjacent to the gates of our apartment block, newly re-opened after a 2-week refurbishment. Very pleasant & friendly staff.
02/12 - cycled out to Cerro Gordo again, & this time took the new road down to the beach. Lots of locals sunbathing in this very sheltered spot. The road up was too steep to cycle, so a long hot push.
03/12 - the tasteful Christmas lights are up in town, but not switched on yet (how sensible). We have splashed out 75cents on a tiny Santa to hang on our patio!!!
Our apartment block is called "Las Fuentes" (The Fountains). One week after our moving in on 01/11/07, the Caretaker drained down the extensive fountains which are the key (only!) feature of the complex. He has since painstakingly cleaned them out & repainted them. At long last today he refilled them & turned them on again, much to our delight & that of all the little birds who inhabit our orange trees. He has now however, taken his chainsaw to the beautifully flowering hibiscus bushes! (Alan Titchmarsh he is not!)
Monday 26 November 2007
Malaga & mountains
Took a very comfortable local bus to Malaga this week (great value at Euro 3.5). It has an extensive old quarter with some Roman ruins, a castle, & the Picasso museum (including some fabulous early works showing how talented a conventional artist he was at a very early age). In the basement of the museum were some remnants of Phoenician (6th Century BC) & Roman (2nd Century BC) buildings. At the museum the loos were so high tec Sue could not work out how to get wash or flush water - then it turned out to be all automatic anyway!. The Produce Market was 3 large halls of mouth-watering produce (meat, fish & fruit). Lunched on delicious salads in the Plaza de Merced under sunny skies.
Walks this week included a wonderfully scenic route with Gill,Andrew, Sue & Graham. Set off from a small car park area above Frigiliana village & did a circular walk of 13 miles climbing from 400m at the start to 900m at the highest point. Saw a family group of ibex & a half-metre snake crossed the path immediatley in front of us as we walked. Lunched at a remote hotel & got back to the cars just before dusk. Also walked up the rio Higueron to Frigiliana & back Sunday. People-watched in the sunny square whilst we ate a picnic lunch.
With a full moon & storms across the Med in N. Africa, waves have been crashing onto the Nerja shoreline for the lastfew days. This has not deterred the local shore-fishermen who have been out in force in front of our appartment block (& we actually saw a fish caught as well!)
Walks this week included a wonderfully scenic route with Gill,Andrew, Sue & Graham. Set off from a small car park area above Frigiliana village & did a circular walk of 13 miles climbing from 400m at the start to 900m at the highest point. Saw a family group of ibex & a half-metre snake crossed the path immediatley in front of us as we walked. Lunched at a remote hotel & got back to the cars just before dusk. Also walked up the rio Higueron to Frigiliana & back Sunday. People-watched in the sunny square whilst we ate a picnic lunch.
With a full moon & storms across the Med in N. Africa, waves have been crashing onto the Nerja shoreline for the lastfew days. This has not deterred the local shore-fishermen who have been out in force in front of our appartment block (& we actually saw a fish caught as well!)
Monday 19 November 2007
Walking with friends
Have met local Brit expert walkers & enjoyed a wonderful day led by Gill & Andrew walking the Sierra between Frigiliana & Maro.This included 'river-leaping' & some steep inclines. Saw our first black squirrel & many wheeling vultures. Also the effects of the 21stSept rains washing 2metres of riverbed away from the rambla.
Visited Tuesday street market in Nerja. Streets full of cut price & fake designer goods stalls & great local produce (esp. nuts)
Equally exciting walk with our first visitors (Barbara & Will) took us up an initially dry rambla, but we ended up wading up to our knees in the swift flowing stream in the narrow gorge (Mike managed to keep dry feet as Will provided an obliging piggy-back! Sue's shoes still drying out).This was north of Nerja towards Frigiliana,but we could not reach the village so turned back. With B&W found some great restaurants to take future visitors.
Don't worry,we are still keeping up our cycling, with several trips around the local hills in the last week.
Weather still great, but evenings getting cooler. Little Christmas hype here as yet - what a pleasure to be free of that (bah humbug)!
Visited Tuesday street market in Nerja. Streets full of cut price & fake designer goods stalls & great local produce (esp. nuts)
Equally exciting walk with our first visitors (Barbara & Will) took us up an initially dry rambla, but we ended up wading up to our knees in the swift flowing stream in the narrow gorge (Mike managed to keep dry feet as Will provided an obliging piggy-back! Sue's shoes still drying out).This was north of Nerja towards Frigiliana,but we could not reach the village so turned back. With B&W found some great restaurants to take future visitors.
Don't worry,we are still keeping up our cycling, with several trips around the local hills in the last week.
Weather still great, but evenings getting cooler. Little Christmas hype here as yet - what a pleasure to be free of that (bah humbug)!
Monday 12 November 2007
Sierra de Tejeda
Local exploring within 40miles of Nerja we have been to Competa @ 600m high. Great scenery & weather. Also visited the church at Velez Malaga where annual easter passion processions take place. Upto 120 people needed to carry each religous effigy around the town!!!
Walked from Nerja to the Rio Chillar valley & also from Maro into the foothills of the Sierra de Tejeda, where we saw ibex roaming the slopes.
Looking forward to seeing our friends Barbara & Will who are flying in from London at the weekend for a few days visit - hope the weather holds for them.
Continuing to explore new tapas bars & paella restaurants - it's tough but somebody has to do it!
Have spoken to Chris a few times & he is working hard & playing hard - has got his first rowing competition this week. Apparently apart from the cox he is the shortest one in the boat - god knows how tall the others are.
Walked from Nerja to the Rio Chillar valley & also from Maro into the foothills of the Sierra de Tejeda, where we saw ibex roaming the slopes.
Looking forward to seeing our friends Barbara & Will who are flying in from London at the weekend for a few days visit - hope the weather holds for them.
Continuing to explore new tapas bars & paella restaurants - it's tough but somebody has to do it!
Have spoken to Chris a few times & he is working hard & playing hard - has got his first rowing competition this week. Apparently apart from the cox he is the shortest one in the boat - god knows how tall the others are.
Monday 5 November 2007
Nerja in Andalucia
Reached Nerja on 26/10/08 & booked into charming small town centre hotel as nearby campsite closed for October holidays. Within a few days we have been able to rent a ground floor apartment (easy bike acess) handy to the town centre, beach & tapas bars - ours until the end of March 08.
We are exploring the local hill villages (great to be cycling without the luggage!) Weather has been brilliant since we arrived - big blue skies, sun from 8.00am til 7.00pm (can it last?) Planning longer trips to Malaga, Granada etc by bus.
HAPPY BIRTHDAYS TO HARRIET (4th Nov) & CHRISTOPHER (10th Nov) THIS WEEK - XXX
We are exploring the local hill villages (great to be cycling without the luggage!) Weather has been brilliant since we arrived - big blue skies, sun from 8.00am til 7.00pm (can it last?) Planning longer trips to Malaga, Granada etc by bus.
HAPPY BIRTHDAYS TO HARRIET (4th Nov) & CHRISTOPHER (10th Nov) THIS WEEK - XXX
Thursday 25 October 2007
Provinces of Alicante, Murcia & Andalucia
Now over 1000 miles completed in Spain. Language improving slowly. Heading for Nerja next to try to rent for overwinter in that area. Dennis Bedford (see below 20/10) has risen to the challenge of 1litre of wine by purchasing same at 45cents (our previous best 49) - we will continue research into this!!!
14/10 - fantastic ride over the mountains south of Oliva to Altea. Great views, 638m pass then down to Bullola to find the road completely washed away in the recent floods. Not to be thwarted, we stripped all the luggage from the bikes & carried all piecemeal around the washout, hanging onto the one remaining crash barrier as we went. Great weather.
15/10 - Sunny all day again. Cycled coast road via Benidorm (busy) & Alicante to Santa Pola (really friendly campsite with complete mixture of nationalities). Sue fell off again 50m from the campsite - fortunately going slowly so little damage to her or the bike - she is getting better at falling off with practice!!!. Contacted Chris Slade to arrange to meet him Wednesday night.
16/10 - Checked out Santa Pola & Elche. Heavy rain in Elche (we were in the bar!) caused river to turn from a 1m wide & deep stream to a 10m wide & ?deep torrent in 2 hours.
17/10 - Rest day, walked to shops & cycled only 10 miles!. Great lunch at beach side cafe S of St Pola, 12 Sardinhos each! Met Chris & Jackie Slade in the evening, drinks chez Slade & meal at their favourite local. Great to see them - some reminiscing about the old ECC days!!! Heavy rain overnight.
18/10 - Rained on & off most of morning. Got to Orihuela for lunch & booked into hotel. Interesting town to walk round - old palaces & churches etc.
19/10 - Cycled fertile valley with mountains either side. Busy as we approached Murcia, but worth a visit for the great Cathedral. Out on increasingly quiet roads to Alhamar & Tohana campsite.
20/10 - Great weather & flat roads most of the day, passing through fields of lettuce & chillies. Passed thru Lorca then Pulpi to Urcal. Last 8kms a climb in mid-pm heat! Rewarded with cold beers at Dennis & Beryl's lovely house overlooking the valley & surrounding mountain scenery. Great to see them enjoying their new life in Spain. Very impressed with Dennis' mastery of Spanish. Also they had managed to arrange a local fiesta in Huercal Overa for us, with all 10,000 inhabitants attending in our honour!!!. Fantastic firework display at midnight. Chicken & chips Spanish style followed by a waffle like sticky substance to die for - full of sugar, covered in sweet sauce & cream - felt your teeth rotting with every bite! Saw Hoopoe & Little Owl.
21/10 - Wonderful breakfast to set us on our way - smoked salmon & scrambled eggs! Straightforward run to Los Gallardos except for 2km off road to avoid Autovia.
22/10 - Sunny all day. Back roads 1st, then climbing into the foothills of the Sierra to 'Little Hollywood' where Spag Westerns were filmed. On thru fantastic desert landscape to Alhamar de Almeria. Stopped for coffee at garage here & were entertained with flamenco music by 3 men in a van filling with petrol! Spa hotel with wonderful balcony view from our room. - recommended by the local tourist office lady who spoke no English but could understand our french!
23/10 - Climbing most of the day thru wonderful mountain scenery of the Sierra Nevada. Pass at 1015m high with 30 vultures circling above & a Golden Eagle soaring south. Stayed at Berja for the night (valley full of plastic greenhouses!). 2 lovely ladies running the hotel spoke no English but explained everything by miming - very amusing.
24/10 - Down main road to Adra, then busy N340 coast road via 3 tunnels to Motril! Quiet campsite by Med. Checked out Salobrena then had tapas in Puerto Del Motril bar.
25/10 - Cycled without luggage to Almunecar. Flood damage still apparent. Pleasant seaside resort.
14/10 - fantastic ride over the mountains south of Oliva to Altea. Great views, 638m pass then down to Bullola to find the road completely washed away in the recent floods. Not to be thwarted, we stripped all the luggage from the bikes & carried all piecemeal around the washout, hanging onto the one remaining crash barrier as we went. Great weather.
15/10 - Sunny all day again. Cycled coast road via Benidorm (busy) & Alicante to Santa Pola (really friendly campsite with complete mixture of nationalities). Sue fell off again 50m from the campsite - fortunately going slowly so little damage to her or the bike - she is getting better at falling off with practice!!!. Contacted Chris Slade to arrange to meet him Wednesday night.
16/10 - Checked out Santa Pola & Elche. Heavy rain in Elche (we were in the bar!) caused river to turn from a 1m wide & deep stream to a 10m wide & ?deep torrent in 2 hours.
17/10 - Rest day, walked to shops & cycled only 10 miles!. Great lunch at beach side cafe S of St Pola, 12 Sardinhos each! Met Chris & Jackie Slade in the evening, drinks chez Slade & meal at their favourite local. Great to see them - some reminiscing about the old ECC days!!! Heavy rain overnight.
18/10 - Rained on & off most of morning. Got to Orihuela for lunch & booked into hotel. Interesting town to walk round - old palaces & churches etc.
19/10 - Cycled fertile valley with mountains either side. Busy as we approached Murcia, but worth a visit for the great Cathedral. Out on increasingly quiet roads to Alhamar & Tohana campsite.
20/10 - Great weather & flat roads most of the day, passing through fields of lettuce & chillies. Passed thru Lorca then Pulpi to Urcal. Last 8kms a climb in mid-pm heat! Rewarded with cold beers at Dennis & Beryl's lovely house overlooking the valley & surrounding mountain scenery. Great to see them enjoying their new life in Spain. Very impressed with Dennis' mastery of Spanish. Also they had managed to arrange a local fiesta in Huercal Overa for us, with all 10,000 inhabitants attending in our honour!!!. Fantastic firework display at midnight. Chicken & chips Spanish style followed by a waffle like sticky substance to die for - full of sugar, covered in sweet sauce & cream - felt your teeth rotting with every bite! Saw Hoopoe & Little Owl.
21/10 - Wonderful breakfast to set us on our way - smoked salmon & scrambled eggs! Straightforward run to Los Gallardos except for 2km off road to avoid Autovia.
22/10 - Sunny all day. Back roads 1st, then climbing into the foothills of the Sierra to 'Little Hollywood' where Spag Westerns were filmed. On thru fantastic desert landscape to Alhamar de Almeria. Stopped for coffee at garage here & were entertained with flamenco music by 3 men in a van filling with petrol! Spa hotel with wonderful balcony view from our room. - recommended by the local tourist office lady who spoke no English but could understand our french!
23/10 - Climbing most of the day thru wonderful mountain scenery of the Sierra Nevada. Pass at 1015m high with 30 vultures circling above & a Golden Eagle soaring south. Stayed at Berja for the night (valley full of plastic greenhouses!). 2 lovely ladies running the hotel spoke no English but explained everything by miming - very amusing.
24/10 - Down main road to Adra, then busy N340 coast road via 3 tunnels to Motril! Quiet campsite by Med. Checked out Salobrena then had tapas in Puerto Del Motril bar.
25/10 - Cycled without luggage to Almunecar. Flood damage still apparent. Pleasant seaside resort.
Saturday 13 October 2007
Orange Blossom Coast
Over 650 miles completed in Spain so far, camped versus hotels roughly 50/50 (all due to campsite availability). Record drinkable red wine price now 49cents/litre!!! Bullrunning season here & many towns seem to have their version of this with great iron fences protecting shop fronts & crowds.
09/10 - Main & coast roads to Vinaros & Peniscola. Camped at Benacassim.
10/10 - Back roads thru Castellon, then lovely orange grove roads to the old town of Sagunto. Oranges just ripening now for harvest. Great sunny weather. Camped at Pucol, rainstorm at night.
11/10 - Dry in the morning. Found good cycle route in to Valencia City. Lunched in the old centre, then out on another good cycle route down the Albufera coast to El Saler to camp. Met American cyclists Rob & Alice at the site. Very heavy storms overnight but our tent & pitch ok - Rob & Alice wet!
12/10 - Parts of the site heavily flooded. Decided to stay another night here to let weather settle a bit. Cycled out around the Alburfera nature reserve area - thousands of herons & egrets on paddy rice fields. Had great lunch in El Saler.
13/10 - Early start, down the coast to Cellura (nice clean place), & on to Gandia & overnight at Oliva. Saturday so many lycra-clad groups of cyclists out today! Fab weather again - 24 degs.
09/10 - Main & coast roads to Vinaros & Peniscola. Camped at Benacassim.
10/10 - Back roads thru Castellon, then lovely orange grove roads to the old town of Sagunto. Oranges just ripening now for harvest. Great sunny weather. Camped at Pucol, rainstorm at night.
11/10 - Dry in the morning. Found good cycle route in to Valencia City. Lunched in the old centre, then out on another good cycle route down the Albufera coast to El Saler to camp. Met American cyclists Rob & Alice at the site. Very heavy storms overnight but our tent & pitch ok - Rob & Alice wet!
12/10 - Parts of the site heavily flooded. Decided to stay another night here to let weather settle a bit. Cycled out around the Alburfera nature reserve area - thousands of herons & egrets on paddy rice fields. Had great lunch in El Saler.
13/10 - Early start, down the coast to Cellura (nice clean place), & on to Gandia & overnight at Oliva. Saturday so many lycra-clad groups of cyclists out today! Fab weather again - 24 degs.
Monday 8 October 2007
Down the Rio Ebro
A great weeks cycling (321 miles) to get to the Med. In Tortosa now (08/10/2007), about to head down the Med coast towards Valencia. Diary below :-
02/10 - quiet roads to Mendavia, then main road to Calahorra. Met young German touring cyclist doing the Pilgrims Way.He reported terrible storms coming through the Pyrennes!
03/10 - great back roads to Rincon Somo, then onto Cordella & Tudela. Harvesting vines on the way,using immigrant workers -hard manual labour. Also chillies drying from many balconies.
04/10 - Sue front puncture (glass) delayed start. Wonderful quiet roads in Ebro valley to Añagon, then awful main road into Zaragoza, equivalent of cycling 18 miles down the hard shoulder of M1! Saw vultures on roadside cliffs near Remolinos. Olive groves replacing vines now. Good Tapas in the evening.
05/10 - Better effort at getting out of Zaragoza alongside main road rather than on it! Even went "off road" at one point! Turned south into the hills via Azalia to Pueblo de la Hijar. No vegetation in the hills but shepherds with large flocks of sheep, eating what?
06/10 - Great weather all day, & good roads. Found local shop in Estacion De La Pueblo de la Hijar - looked like an ordinary house, had to ask local! Camped at Lake Caspe.
07/10 - Again great roads & weather. Some wonderful mountain views & rides down gorges to the Ebro fertile plains. Stayed in Tortosa-great Tapas and fantastic fresh food Mercado.
02/10 - quiet roads to Mendavia, then main road to Calahorra. Met young German touring cyclist doing the Pilgrims Way.He reported terrible storms coming through the Pyrennes!
03/10 - great back roads to Rincon Somo, then onto Cordella & Tudela. Harvesting vines on the way,using immigrant workers -hard manual labour. Also chillies drying from many balconies.
04/10 - Sue front puncture (glass) delayed start. Wonderful quiet roads in Ebro valley to Añagon, then awful main road into Zaragoza, equivalent of cycling 18 miles down the hard shoulder of M1! Saw vultures on roadside cliffs near Remolinos. Olive groves replacing vines now. Good Tapas in the evening.
05/10 - Better effort at getting out of Zaragoza alongside main road rather than on it! Even went "off road" at one point! Turned south into the hills via Azalia to Pueblo de la Hijar. No vegetation in the hills but shepherds with large flocks of sheep, eating what?
06/10 - Great weather all day, & good roads. Found local shop in Estacion De La Pueblo de la Hijar - looked like an ordinary house, had to ask local! Camped at Lake Caspe.
07/10 - Again great roads & weather. Some wonderful mountain views & rides down gorges to the Ebro fertile plains. Stayed in Tortosa-great Tapas and fantastic fresh food Mercado.
Monday 1 October 2007
Head for the Med
Had an eventful ride down from Dorchester to Plymouth on 24th & 25th Sept. Lovely stay as always with Ian & Janet at Exeter, then a memorable ride over Haldon via Exeter Racecourse to Ashburton. Coffee courtesy of Glendinnings, lunch courtesy of Julia & Clive at the Cafe. Then to Jeannie & Roly in Plymouth & a lovely steak.The cyclimg glasses and camera box are invaluable so thanks Jeannie and good luck Roly in S America
Great ferry crossing to Santander 26th pm & overnight, arriving 8.30am Thursday 27th.
Since then we have been acclimatising to Spain. Progress slower than planned as we are spending more time stopping & enjoying the country. Less campsites available due to the lateness in the season, so we have stayed a couple of nights in "Pensions", in mainly lisyed buildings. Have finally worked out how to ask for grass in the few campsites there are, so a softer pitch than first few nights. We are roughly following a medieval route so fantastic castles and churches.
Weather generally good, little rain, some sun, great temperatures. Have seen some eagles/vultures (not sure which) & are gradually picking up some lingo!
Currently in Logrono (fine University town) on the Ebro River in Rioja country (wine sampling a must from 12euro = mikes birthday, to everday 65 cents)
Carrying on down the Ebro valley for the next few days.
Great ferry crossing to Santander 26th pm & overnight, arriving 8.30am Thursday 27th.
Since then we have been acclimatising to Spain. Progress slower than planned as we are spending more time stopping & enjoying the country. Less campsites available due to the lateness in the season, so we have stayed a couple of nights in "Pensions", in mainly lisyed buildings. Have finally worked out how to ask for grass in the few campsites there are, so a softer pitch than first few nights. We are roughly following a medieval route so fantastic castles and churches.
Weather generally good, little rain, some sun, great temperatures. Have seen some eagles/vultures (not sure which) & are gradually picking up some lingo!
Currently in Logrono (fine University town) on the Ebro River in Rioja country (wine sampling a must from 12euro = mikes birthday, to everday 65 cents)
Carrying on down the Ebro valley for the next few days.
Saturday 15 September 2007
Mansfield to Dorchester
Travels Phase 1 now completed. Good shakedown tour for the bikes & equipement (& us!!!) Busy planning Phase 2 - into mainland Europe - expect we'll set out around 23rd Sept. Watch the blog!
2 Sept. Left Mansfield by cycle paths for short hop to Loughborough to stay in Jenny and Richards empty student let - we must be going soft! Used National Cycle Network (NCN) route through Newstead Abbey & were charged 50p each for the pleasure - first road toll in nearly 3000 miles!!!
3 Sept .69 miles in sunshine - long day as kept off roads, on canals through Nuneaton and Coventry.
4 Sept.Wonderful run through Cotswold villages. Saw some flood damage from earlier in the year. 48miles & 3000 miles so far!!!
5 Sept Again lovely villages and got on Avon and Kennet canal at Devizes, to just near Trowbridge - canal heaving with narrow boats. Camped in rural site near Westbury, with fine views of Westbury cement works ! Saw 3 White Horses today! 56miles.
6 Sept .Very misty start but sunshine soon burnt through. Lovely quiet back roads to Dorchester. Pint at the 'Fox Inn' at Ansty very welcome.
During our rest in Dorchester we have taken the bikes to the suppliers at Bridgewater for service & repairs, ready for next journey.
2 Sept. Left Mansfield by cycle paths for short hop to Loughborough to stay in Jenny and Richards empty student let - we must be going soft! Used National Cycle Network (NCN) route through Newstead Abbey & were charged 50p each for the pleasure - first road toll in nearly 3000 miles!!!
3 Sept .69 miles in sunshine - long day as kept off roads, on canals through Nuneaton and Coventry.
4 Sept.Wonderful run through Cotswold villages. Saw some flood damage from earlier in the year. 48miles & 3000 miles so far!!!
5 Sept Again lovely villages and got on Avon and Kennet canal at Devizes, to just near Trowbridge - canal heaving with narrow boats. Camped in rural site near Westbury, with fine views of Westbury cement works ! Saw 3 White Horses today! 56miles.
6 Sept .Very misty start but sunshine soon burnt through. Lovely quiet back roads to Dorchester. Pint at the 'Fox Inn' at Ansty very welcome.
During our rest in Dorchester we have taken the bikes to the suppliers at Bridgewater for service & repairs, ready for next journey.
Saturday 1 September 2007
Borders & Blighty
Catch up from 20th Aug below. Setting off from Mansfield 2nd Sep heading S & W to Sue's Mum's in Dorchester & to see Chris (back from Oz soon). Will also get to see our friends Anne & Mike on the way.
23rd Aug - Canal path from Jane's into Edinburgh. Great weather. Walked thru the 'Fringe' events in the city. Picked up a cycle route at Portobello E of the city down to Innerleithen
24th Aug - Along the Tweed valley to Coldstream.
25th Aug - Great early morning ride over causeway to Holy Island & Lindisfarne before all the tourists arrived & the tide came in! Then down to Bamburgh (brill castle).
26th Aug - Quiet roads to Alnwick (another super castle), although busy in opp direction as people driving north to start the Great North Bike Ride (we gave that a miss!) Then to Bellingham to camp.
27th Aug - Bank hol Monday. Over desolate moors on Nat. Cycle Network route 68 to Hadrian's Wall - impressive. Good weather holding. Over Harstide Summit (1877ft - highest yet on bikes) & down hairpin bends to camp at Ousby - 'Sid' the campsite owner & pub landlord - great combination. Met 2 young lads on 1st touring cycle trip doing shakedown for planned N to S Africa trip in 18 months!
28th Aug - Carried on NCN route 68 with splendid views of ~Howgill Fells to Dent, campsite in fantastic scenery.
29th Aug - Stiff climb am adjacent to Whernside, met group of youngsters from Rutland cycling 80 miles/day to Berwick-on-Tweed. Looking for campsite N of Heptonstall, local gave us directions to 'Mays' in Slack, an old listed farmhouse with general mstore in a stone outbuilding. May made us very welcome including free camp & morning coffee. Spring water supply delicious! Earth Closet in cobbled farmyard the main facility!
30th Aug - set off thru quaint cobbled streets of Heptonstall, then tough day of several ardous climbs took us to Penistone (on Trans Pennine Trail - a national cycle path on an old railway).
31st Aug - Fine weather & tail wind. O TPT again to Mexborough, then to Worksop to pick up NCN 6 to Clipstone, Notts. Cycle path into Mansfield to Mike's sister's.
23rd Aug - Canal path from Jane's into Edinburgh. Great weather. Walked thru the 'Fringe' events in the city. Picked up a cycle route at Portobello E of the city down to Innerleithen
24th Aug - Along the Tweed valley to Coldstream.
25th Aug - Great early morning ride over causeway to Holy Island & Lindisfarne before all the tourists arrived & the tide came in! Then down to Bamburgh (brill castle).
26th Aug - Quiet roads to Alnwick (another super castle), although busy in opp direction as people driving north to start the Great North Bike Ride (we gave that a miss!) Then to Bellingham to camp.
27th Aug - Bank hol Monday. Over desolate moors on Nat. Cycle Network route 68 to Hadrian's Wall - impressive. Good weather holding. Over Harstide Summit (1877ft - highest yet on bikes) & down hairpin bends to camp at Ousby - 'Sid' the campsite owner & pub landlord - great combination. Met 2 young lads on 1st touring cycle trip doing shakedown for planned N to S Africa trip in 18 months!
28th Aug - Carried on NCN route 68 with splendid views of ~Howgill Fells to Dent, campsite in fantastic scenery.
29th Aug - Stiff climb am adjacent to Whernside, met group of youngsters from Rutland cycling 80 miles/day to Berwick-on-Tweed. Looking for campsite N of Heptonstall, local gave us directions to 'Mays' in Slack, an old listed farmhouse with general mstore in a stone outbuilding. May made us very welcome including free camp & morning coffee. Spring water supply delicious! Earth Closet in cobbled farmyard the main facility!
30th Aug - set off thru quaint cobbled streets of Heptonstall, then tough day of several ardous climbs took us to Penistone (on Trans Pennine Trail - a national cycle path on an old railway).
31st Aug - Fine weather & tail wind. O TPT again to Mexborough, then to Worksop to pick up NCN 6 to Clipstone, Notts. Cycle path into Mansfield to Mike's sister's.
Monday 20 August 2007
Scotland - coast to coast
We forgot to mention we reached our 2000 milestone 11th August.
Afternoon ferry to Ullapool.Great views of water falls on either side of the Loch as we approached port.As we disembarked the heavens opened and a very strong head wind -fortunately only had a few hundred yards to cycle to Ullapool campsite
14th.When we emerged in the morning sunshine we could see what a fab setting surrounded by mountains and estuary views.The glorious weather continued as we cycled towards Inverness through wonderful mountain scenery.Camped at Beauly on the river.
15th.Another sunny day -went down South side of Loch Ness to lovely unspoilt village of Fort Augustus ,where there is an opening road bridge to allow yachts through to 4 locks at the Caledonian canal.
16th.Cycled the tow path and off road through private estates and forest.Met a very interesting lock keeper who was busy letting yachts ,holiday barges and all sorts through Gairlochy Lock and operating an opening swing road bridge.There were quite a lot of touring cyclists following this Great Glen cycling route.We paid our respects at the Spean bridge Commando memorial -magnificent with the back drop of Nevis.The summit was hidden in cloud.
17th The cloud lifted from Nevis as we left Roybridge campsite ;glorious view of the summit and snow patches on this North side.Cycled through the Drumocther pass to Blair Atholl on wonderful cycle route beside the railway and river,surrounded by the Cairngorms.The highest railway in UK.Camped in the Blair estate by the castle .A 5 star enormous site .The village is still all estate owned and very quaint.
18th .We knew it couldn't last -the weather deteriorated and rained all day -so we decided to keep on cycling past Perth -67 miles to camp near pleasant village of Kinross .The rain continued all night !
19th Fine in the morning and all day as we headed for the Forth Rd bridge ,pausing to take photos of the railbridge-then a puddley trip along the canal to Linlithgow and up the hill to Jane and Mikes where a feast of lamb and sampling of Mikes famous wine cellar sustained us.We are now drying out as everything got wet when we had to wade through a flooded section of cycle route near Dunfermeline -even deeper than in Wales -keeping Jane's washing machine busy .
20th To spend pm in Edinburgh sampling the Fringe.
Plan to head south thru the Borders from Wednesday, to call at Mike's sister's in Mansfield.
Afternoon ferry to Ullapool.Great views of water falls on either side of the Loch as we approached port.As we disembarked the heavens opened and a very strong head wind -fortunately only had a few hundred yards to cycle to Ullapool campsite
14th.When we emerged in the morning sunshine we could see what a fab setting surrounded by mountains and estuary views.The glorious weather continued as we cycled towards Inverness through wonderful mountain scenery.Camped at Beauly on the river.
15th.Another sunny day -went down South side of Loch Ness to lovely unspoilt village of Fort Augustus ,where there is an opening road bridge to allow yachts through to 4 locks at the Caledonian canal.
16th.Cycled the tow path and off road through private estates and forest.Met a very interesting lock keeper who was busy letting yachts ,holiday barges and all sorts through Gairlochy Lock and operating an opening swing road bridge.There were quite a lot of touring cyclists following this Great Glen cycling route.We paid our respects at the Spean bridge Commando memorial -magnificent with the back drop of Nevis.The summit was hidden in cloud.
17th The cloud lifted from Nevis as we left Roybridge campsite ;glorious view of the summit and snow patches on this North side.Cycled through the Drumocther pass to Blair Atholl on wonderful cycle route beside the railway and river,surrounded by the Cairngorms.The highest railway in UK.Camped in the Blair estate by the castle .A 5 star enormous site .The village is still all estate owned and very quaint.
18th .We knew it couldn't last -the weather deteriorated and rained all day -so we decided to keep on cycling past Perth -67 miles to camp near pleasant village of Kinross .The rain continued all night !
19th Fine in the morning and all day as we headed for the Forth Rd bridge ,pausing to take photos of the railbridge-then a puddley trip along the canal to Linlithgow and up the hill to Jane and Mikes where a feast of lamb and sampling of Mikes famous wine cellar sustained us.We are now drying out as everything got wet when we had to wade through a flooded section of cycle route near Dunfermeline -even deeper than in Wales -keeping Jane's washing machine busy .
20th To spend pm in Edinburgh sampling the Fringe.
Plan to head south thru the Borders from Wednesday, to call at Mike's sister's in Mansfield.
Monday 13 August 2007
Further Islands
8th Aug - Ferry from Tobermory to Kilchoan on Ardnamurchan Peninsula (mainland). Great ride from Kilchoan thru Peninsula & Miodart area to Arisaig.
9th - Arisaig to Mallaig then ferry to Skye. Good weather all day for ride to Sligochan. Wonderful views of the Red & Black Cuillin. Good off main drag routes.
10th - Portree then to Staffin via 'Old Man of Storr'. Great coast & mountian views & waterfall to sea at Kilt Rock.
11th - Wonderful ride over the Quiraing rode to Uig. Saw Hen Harrier close to road. Ferry from Uig to Tarbert on Harris. Amazing 'lunar landscape scenery of south Harris.
12th - Steady days ride from south Harris to Stornoway on Lewis. Poor visibility, but some good coastal loch views.
13th - Stornoway Library internet while waiting for 1345 ferry to Ullapool
Will spend next few days cycling down thru Scotland (Great Glen etc) to Edinburgh to see Sue's sister Jane & family. Weather forecast not brilliant - might get wet!
9th - Arisaig to Mallaig then ferry to Skye. Good weather all day for ride to Sligochan. Wonderful views of the Red & Black Cuillin. Good off main drag routes.
10th - Portree then to Staffin via 'Old Man of Storr'. Great coast & mountian views & waterfall to sea at Kilt Rock.
11th - Wonderful ride over the Quiraing rode to Uig. Saw Hen Harrier close to road. Ferry from Uig to Tarbert on Harris. Amazing 'lunar landscape scenery of south Harris.
12th - Steady days ride from south Harris to Stornoway on Lewis. Poor visibility, but some good coastal loch views.
13th - Stornoway Library internet while waiting for 1345 ferry to Ullapool
Will spend next few days cycling down thru Scotland (Great Glen etc) to Edinburgh to see Sue's sister Jane & family. Weather forecast not brilliant - might get wet!
Tuesday 7 August 2007
West Scotland - Islands
Spent lovely weekend in NI withLiz and family ,Great to be chauffered us up beautiful Antrim coast rd in brilliant sun .
30th. Road past Slemish mountain to pm ferry from Larne to Troon. Met LA cyclist with trailer ,
31st ferry to Arran ,Mini Scotland -mountains lakes .2 beautiful days -Golden eagles ,seals red deer. Geologists dream -huttons unconcormity!
2nd ferry to Isla .Fab weather camped in dunes -views of Gigha.
4th mainland route ( to Oban to catch ferry to Mull.Great views of Osprey family.
20mins off ferry on Mull saw white tailed sea eagle .
7th Camping Tobermory -off north to mainland and Skye tomorrow.
30th. Road past Slemish mountain to pm ferry from Larne to Troon. Met LA cyclist with trailer ,
31st ferry to Arran ,Mini Scotland -mountains lakes .2 beautiful days -Golden eagles ,seals red deer. Geologists dream -huttons unconcormity!
2nd ferry to Isla .Fab weather camped in dunes -views of Gigha.
4th mainland route ( to Oban to catch ferry to Mull.Great views of Osprey family.
20mins off ferry on Mull saw white tailed sea eagle .
7th Camping Tobermory -off north to mainland and Skye tomorrow.
Friday 27 July 2007
Sligo, Mayo then North
Friday. Westpoint.Very grateful for stay with inspirational touring cyclist Mike Murphy and his lovely wife, Sheila (who cooked us a feast). A chance meeting with Mike whilst we looked for a campsite in the rain led to a dry night for us in great company
Sat. Mike M. led us on our way North via very quiet roads past lovely lakes and mountains. Camped Insihcrone-very hot and sunny .
Sun. Sligo -bought mike a new rear tyre as a spate of punctures -trying a `Continental`.Camped @Rosses Point.View from tent of lovely `Oyster` island with its tiny lighthouse.View ,brill weather and Guiness so good we stayed 2 nights -our 1st rest day since Rosslare!.
Tuesday. Carney -hamlet just north of Rosses. Ancestral home of Kevin Davenport.The other famous son is WB Yeats ,after whom everthing is named ,including local football team -Yeats UTD.
Fabulous queit ride past breathtaking montains..Camped on shore of Lough Erne.
Sorry to be leaving Eire as shall miss staggering scenery ,sunshine ,beaches etc but mainly the lovely people-especially the many little old ladies who insisted on giving us complex detailed routes to places ,even if we werent going there!
Wed. Lovely back roads through bigger fields -cows now Charalei and Chocolate. Lots of donkeys.Farm dogs have often rushed out -if you are going 12 mph or more they cant keep up -all right down hill or on flat -difficult up hill !Camped by lake in park south of Dungannon.
Thurs. 71 miles today(got a bit lost ) -longest yet -its great to be so fit now -we couldn`t have done 1/2 that a mounth ago .Camped on shore of river Bann .Next tent a cyclist from Holland -he had such dreadful weather crossing England -he gave up and took train to Liverpool.Has just rung his Mum in Holland who is flooded too! We met many fellow touring cyclist in SW -mainly French -much fewer now.
Friday in Ballymena to meet Liz and stay a while -Then off to Scotland. Total 310mils since last blog update - just under 1,500 miles so far!
Sat. Mike M. led us on our way North via very quiet roads past lovely lakes and mountains. Camped Insihcrone-very hot and sunny .
Sun. Sligo -bought mike a new rear tyre as a spate of punctures -trying a `Continental`.Camped @Rosses Point.View from tent of lovely `Oyster` island with its tiny lighthouse.View ,brill weather and Guiness so good we stayed 2 nights -our 1st rest day since Rosslare!.
Tuesday. Carney -hamlet just north of Rosses. Ancestral home of Kevin Davenport.The other famous son is WB Yeats ,after whom everthing is named ,including local football team -Yeats UTD.
Fabulous queit ride past breathtaking montains..Camped on shore of Lough Erne.
Sorry to be leaving Eire as shall miss staggering scenery ,sunshine ,beaches etc but mainly the lovely people-especially the many little old ladies who insisted on giving us complex detailed routes to places ,even if we werent going there!
Wed. Lovely back roads through bigger fields -cows now Charalei and Chocolate. Lots of donkeys.Farm dogs have often rushed out -if you are going 12 mph or more they cant keep up -all right down hill or on flat -difficult up hill !Camped by lake in park south of Dungannon.
Thurs. 71 miles today(got a bit lost ) -longest yet -its great to be so fit now -we couldn`t have done 1/2 that a mounth ago .Camped on shore of river Bann .Next tent a cyclist from Holland -he had such dreadful weather crossing England -he gave up and took train to Liverpool.Has just rung his Mum in Holland who is flooded too! We met many fellow touring cyclist in SW -mainly French -much fewer now.
Friday in Ballymena to meet Liz and stay a while -Then off to Scotland. Total 310mils since last blog update - just under 1,500 miles so far!
Friday 20 July 2007
Moher, the Burren, Galway & Connemara
Friday .Westport,pased lakesMask and Corrib down little roads with grass down middle -hares everywhere -brilliant sushine.
Thursday, Connemara mountains and enormous lakes full of little islands and bobbinng fishing boats.
Wednesday, Peatbogs,tiny fields with limestone walls -honey coloured cows with calves,blackfaced /socked sheep and thoroughbreed horses and foals.
Tues ,Banna,fantastic limestone landscape -cliffs and lakes ,completely unspoilt.
Monday,1000miles in total !Early start in sunshine along the Atlantic road on the north side of the Loop -wonderful Basalt cliffs almost as good as cliffs of Moher which we saw later in day . Camped by the sea at Doolin and had guiness in good pub recommended by Mo spent evening talking to a very interesting Ozcouple.
Sun. Heading north to the Magnificent Shannon estuary -crossed by car ferry in a shower .Camped on the shore overlooking colonies of Sandwich terns and blackheaed gulls.
Sat.Visited Inch beach where `Ryans Daughter` filmed sat out in sun to eat Full Irish. Beautiful setting with mountains behind but spoilt by parking -litter on beach and quadbiking in dunes!
Cycled over wonderful Connor pass to Dingle.Fab camp site with views of Dingle BaY.25 Mile cycle without gear round caost of Dingle peninsula in sun ,great views of the Blaskett islands .
The papers here are full of the housing market as values dropping and negative equity.
Last 2 weeks no signs /directions have been in English .I soon discovered fìr is gents not ladies.
Thursday, Connemara mountains and enormous lakes full of little islands and bobbinng fishing boats.
Wednesday, Peatbogs,tiny fields with limestone walls -honey coloured cows with calves,blackfaced /socked sheep and thoroughbreed horses and foals.
Tues ,Banna,fantastic limestone landscape -cliffs and lakes ,completely unspoilt.
Monday,1000miles in total !Early start in sunshine along the Atlantic road on the north side of the Loop -wonderful Basalt cliffs almost as good as cliffs of Moher which we saw later in day . Camped by the sea at Doolin and had guiness in good pub recommended by Mo spent evening talking to a very interesting Ozcouple.
Sun. Heading north to the Magnificent Shannon estuary -crossed by car ferry in a shower .Camped on the shore overlooking colonies of Sandwich terns and blackheaed gulls.
Sat.Visited Inch beach where `Ryans Daughter` filmed sat out in sun to eat Full Irish. Beautiful setting with mountains behind but spoilt by parking -litter on beach and quadbiking in dunes!
Cycled over wonderful Connor pass to Dingle.Fab camp site with views of Dingle BaY.25 Mile cycle without gear round caost of Dingle peninsula in sun ,great views of the Blaskett islands .
The papers here are full of the housing market as values dropping and negative equity.
Last 2 weeks no signs /directions have been in English .I soon discovered fìr is gents not ladies.
Friday 13 July 2007
On to the Peninsulas
Off to the Dingle Peninsula today, then continuing across the Shannon heading north up th west coast. Mileage since last blog entry 270.
Killarney. Reached here early 8.30am so avoiding traffic. Charming town a bit like Bath ,well preserved, quite posh hotels -worth a visit.
Thursday was best days cycling ever. The mist lifted and the road went high round the coast wqith views of bays and farms. Then the road through the centre of the peninsula was quiet as no HGV .Went through two high passes with stunning mountain views on 3 sides Maccilycuddies Reeks the highest mountains in Ireland -,plus flower meadows and hanging lakes -clear views and sunshine all day .10 miles from Kilarney found beautiful little campsite -1 other tent only ,behaind a shop on a river -dried out all gear and had evening walk to look at mountains.
Wednesday Ring of Kerry road going West clockwise,some views ,lots of traffic including at least 20 tourist coaches going opposite way -dangerous speed -by afternnon heavy rain and mist ,camped at end of peninsula on sea edge -but could see little.
Monday /Tuesday Beara Peninsula -The most beautiful place we have seen yet -views all round of Bays ,distant islands and The Ring of Kerry in distance .Had Veronicas guiness fruit cake and tea in bruilliant sunshine before cycling on clockwise East to wild camp just over a high pass om the warmest night so far -very early start next day so beat all the traffic
Bantry Bay area wonderful views, sunshine all day .Curlews, oyster catchers shelduck and
ducklings.
Blarney - despite big tourist attraction of castle still a charming village centre with colourful cottages. Mike thought I didn`t need to kiss the stone! Great campsite with views for miles -
sunshine all day.
Cork much like anyother large congested town ,but the suburbs very Irish little terrace houses and corner shops.
Kinsale a disappointment as stuffed full of queuing traffic,tourists and carparks -prettier and quiet was Glandore -lovely yachty bays and fab scenery. Campsite "The Meadsow" in a quiet country garden.
Killarney. Reached here early 8.30am so avoiding traffic. Charming town a bit like Bath ,well preserved, quite posh hotels -worth a visit.
Thursday was best days cycling ever. The mist lifted and the road went high round the coast wqith views of bays and farms. Then the road through the centre of the peninsula was quiet as no HGV .Went through two high passes with stunning mountain views on 3 sides Maccilycuddies Reeks the highest mountains in Ireland -,plus flower meadows and hanging lakes -clear views and sunshine all day .10 miles from Kilarney found beautiful little campsite -1 other tent only ,behaind a shop on a river -dried out all gear and had evening walk to look at mountains.
Wednesday Ring of Kerry road going West clockwise,some views ,lots of traffic including at least 20 tourist coaches going opposite way -dangerous speed -by afternnon heavy rain and mist ,camped at end of peninsula on sea edge -but could see little.
Monday /Tuesday Beara Peninsula -The most beautiful place we have seen yet -views all round of Bays ,distant islands and The Ring of Kerry in distance .Had Veronicas guiness fruit cake and tea in bruilliant sunshine before cycling on clockwise East to wild camp just over a high pass om the warmest night so far -very early start next day so beat all the traffic
Bantry Bay area wonderful views, sunshine all day .Curlews, oyster catchers shelduck and
ducklings.
Blarney - despite big tourist attraction of castle still a charming village centre with colourful cottages. Mike thought I didn`t need to kiss the stone! Great campsite with views for miles -
sunshine all day.
Cork much like anyother large congested town ,but the suburbs very Irish little terrace houses and corner shops.
Kinsale a disappointment as stuffed full of queuing traffic,tourists and carparks -prettier and quiet was Glandore -lovely yachty bays and fab scenery. Campsite "The Meadsow" in a quiet country garden.
Friday 6 July 2007
South East Ireland
Have arrived Cork this morning in sunshine !150 miles since Rosslare.Thursday rained from taking down tent @7.30 until 1.30 then force 8 gusting 9 headwinds -Oh Joy. N25 road from from hell including roadworks and blocked exit to field campsite. Highlights -Irish breakfasts at Dungarven and outskirts of Cork,beautiful coastal views. Japanese knotweed along roads and canals. Mike growing beard. To camp at Blarney tonight then on to Kinsale and West to Dingle.
Are taking photos but can't attach presently.
Are taking photos but can't attach presently.
Saturday 30 June 2007
South West Wales
In summary, Castles 4, punctures 0, bottle of Moet 1Japanese cyclists 1, Japanese Knotweed trillions, weekly miles 180, miles so far 391.
Friday 29/06/07 - short ride (12 miles) to Pembroke Dock via Pembroke & Castle. All day breakfast waiting for ferry to Rosslare (Eire). Smooth crossing, coachload of Japanese tourists on ferry, 7.00pm arrival at Maureen & Sean's, fabulous fish pie, invited to stay til Monday. Forecast very wet.
Thursday 28/06/07 - Wonderful Pembokeshire coastline. Weather glorious am. Picnic lunch pretty village St Florence. Camped on exposed farm site above Freshwater Bay. 26 miles.
Wednesday 2706/07 - 30 miles. Camarthen Castle. Met Japanese cyclist. Acres of Japanese Knotweed. Beatiful Laugharne village & castle. Dylan Thomas's home. Another sunny evening. Fab modern campsite.
Tuesday 26/06/07 - 24 miles. Estuary cyclin. Sunny. Chris rang from Oz, working 40 miles up dirt track for Co prospecting for tungsten. Lovely evening on beach watching RAF Fighter practise bombing run.
Monday 25/06/07 - 39 miles. Sue's 50th!
Mike splashed out, treating Sue to an all-day breakfast at Jerry's Transport Cafe in Tarmac's South Cornelly Quarry. Jerry says there is a severe weather warning for Wales today! Soggy campsite by Kenfig nature reserve. Champagne, smoked salmon, scrambled eggs & stuffed olives cooked in tent out of rain. Brilliant.
Sunday 24/06/07 - 48 miles around Caerphilly Castle & Taff Trail. Hill route Pontpridd to Tonyrefail. Very exciting in heavy rain & floods. Water half way up panniers! Mike's waterproof cycling jacket isn't, so ditched - using spare 'kag-in-a-bag' .
Friday 29/06/07 - short ride (12 miles) to Pembroke Dock via Pembroke & Castle. All day breakfast waiting for ferry to Rosslare (Eire). Smooth crossing, coachload of Japanese tourists on ferry, 7.00pm arrival at Maureen & Sean's, fabulous fish pie, invited to stay til Monday. Forecast very wet.
Thursday 28/06/07 - Wonderful Pembokeshire coastline. Weather glorious am. Picnic lunch pretty village St Florence. Camped on exposed farm site above Freshwater Bay. 26 miles.
Wednesday 2706/07 - 30 miles. Camarthen Castle. Met Japanese cyclist. Acres of Japanese Knotweed. Beatiful Laugharne village & castle. Dylan Thomas's home. Another sunny evening. Fab modern campsite.
Tuesday 26/06/07 - 24 miles. Estuary cyclin. Sunny. Chris rang from Oz, working 40 miles up dirt track for Co prospecting for tungsten. Lovely evening on beach watching RAF Fighter practise bombing run.
Monday 25/06/07 - 39 miles. Sue's 50th!
Mike splashed out, treating Sue to an all-day breakfast at Jerry's Transport Cafe in Tarmac's South Cornelly Quarry. Jerry says there is a severe weather warning for Wales today! Soggy campsite by Kenfig nature reserve. Champagne, smoked salmon, scrambled eggs & stuffed olives cooked in tent out of rain. Brilliant.
Sunday 24/06/07 - 48 miles around Caerphilly Castle & Taff Trail. Hill route Pontpridd to Tonyrefail. Very exciting in heavy rain & floods. Water half way up panniers! Mike's waterproof cycling jacket isn't, so ditched - using spare 'kag-in-a-bag' .
Saturday 23/06/07 - 56 miles.
A day of bridges. Avon, Severn, & famous Newport Transporter Bridge.
Friday 22 June 2007
Setting out - Devon & Somerset
A selection of our first few pictures
Not marathon stuff, but 155 miles so far!!! To summarise, 1 cycle helmet, 1 puncture & a bottle of Champagne to date.
Friday 22/06/07 – Dry start to break camp. Lovely ride over Somerset levels, saw deer, herons & egrets. Sheltered from heavy storm in Morrisons Weston-Super-Mare (all day breakfast!) Found Strawberry Line Cycle Path to Yatton Station. Stayed the night with Mike & Alison Kacher in Clevedon – fabulous dinner cooked by Alison.
Thursday 21/06/07 – Wet packing up camp & until lunchtime. Canal path from Taunton to Bridgwater (Mike 1st puncture). Campsite at Bawdrip on the Polden Hills – lots of bunnies.
Wednesday 20/06/07 – Set off 7.30. Tiverton canal path, then north into the Brendon Hills. Wonderful campsite at Waterrow.
Tuesday 19/06/07 – Recovering at Janet & Ian’s. Replanned route to reduce daily mileage.
Monday 18/06/07 – Back roads via Totnes to Ashburton. Unfortunately 5 minutes from Ashburton we met a car on a narrow muddy back road & Sue’s emergency stop ended with her head –butting the tarmac. Thanks to all at Glendinning’s who helped to get us sorted. Replacement helmet purchased! Happy Anniversary!
Sunday 17/06/07 – Left 1 Durham Avenue Plymouth to Barbara & Mike’s at Loddiswell via wonderful lunch courtesy of the Paul & Hannah at the Miners Arms Hemerdon.
Friday 22/06/07 – Dry start to break camp. Lovely ride over Somerset levels, saw deer, herons & egrets. Sheltered from heavy storm in Morrisons Weston-Super-Mare (all day breakfast!) Found Strawberry Line Cycle Path to Yatton Station. Stayed the night with Mike & Alison Kacher in Clevedon – fabulous dinner cooked by Alison.
Thursday 21/06/07 – Wet packing up camp & until lunchtime. Canal path from Taunton to Bridgwater (Mike 1st puncture). Campsite at Bawdrip on the Polden Hills – lots of bunnies.
Wednesday 20/06/07 – Set off 7.30. Tiverton canal path, then north into the Brendon Hills. Wonderful campsite at Waterrow.
Tuesday 19/06/07 – Recovering at Janet & Ian’s. Replanned route to reduce daily mileage.
Monday 18/06/07 – Back roads via Totnes to Ashburton. Unfortunately 5 minutes from Ashburton we met a car on a narrow muddy back road & Sue’s emergency stop ended with her head –butting the tarmac. Thanks to all at Glendinning’s who helped to get us sorted. Replacement helmet purchased! Happy Anniversary!
Sunday 17/06/07 – Left 1 Durham Avenue Plymouth to Barbara & Mike’s at Loddiswell via wonderful lunch courtesy of the Paul & Hannah at the Miners Arms Hemerdon.
Wednesday 13 June 2007
Final countdown
We are now trying to remember to do all the things we said we must do before we go! Made our last visit to the tip yesterday evening & will do our last trip to the furniture storage unit this evening, as Sue's car goes tomorrow.
What's left at the rented house tonight will have to go on the bikes with us (or in the dustbin)!
What's left at the rented house tonight will have to go on the bikes with us (or in the dustbin)!
Thursday 31 May 2007
Training continues!
Sue had a day off work last week so we managed two trips onto Dartmoor (Thurs & Sat). Tough climbing up to Princetown, but wonderful views & easy riding back down. Sue managed 40mph on the second trip (but my extra weight got me to 44!).
Plans still progressing well for the start on 17/06/07.
Monday 21 May 2007
Progress update
As Sue will finish work on Friday 15th June 2007, we are planning to set out Sunday 17th. The currrent plan is to cycle from Plymouth to Pembroke Dock in South Wales, then ferry to Rosslare in Ireland.
The itinery will be touring Ireland in July, followed by Scotland in August to mid-September. We will then cycle down through England to meet Chris in Oxford in early October.
After that it will be back to Plymouth to catch the Plymouth-Santander ferry to northern Spain, & head south for the winter!
The itinery will be touring Ireland in July, followed by Scotland in August to mid-September. We will then cycle down through England to meet Chris in Oxford in early October.
After that it will be back to Plymouth to catch the Plymouth-Santander ferry to northern Spain, & head south for the winter!
Tuesday 27 March 2007
Bridgwater bikes
Progress being made. Sue picked up her new bike from SJS Cycles in Bridgewater last Saturday. I took my old Thorn Ventura & we went for a ride to Taunton & back down the canal towpath - the new bike went well. Now we both have Thorn ExpR's with Rohloffs (for the techies). As the weather improves we will be able to get more miles in the legs ready for D(eparture) day.
Tuesday 13 February 2007
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