Monday 24 December 2007

Papa´ Noel

Commercially sensitive Santa chose Sunday evening to visit the children of Nerja. As the streets were closed to traffic, he would have been too disruptive on a weekday.
He set off with his large entourage from the Town Hall. There were so many elves, that 2 large 'sleighs' were needed, given a helping hand by the local farmers & their tractors. You could tell where Santa had passed, as great heaps of ticker tape littered the pavement. You could tell where he was by the cacophany of the Children's Band leading him back to the Balcon De Europa. The drum section was particularly noisy. Sweets, from bags the size of pillowcases, were thrown to children lining the route (but Sue did not manage to catch any!)
Fortunately it was a mild dry evening as, by the time Santa sat down on his throne in front of the Church of San Salvador, there was an orderly queue of every child in Nerja. It took Santa an hour to 'meet & greet'. He will have to be a bit slicker on his global big night, but it was a good dry run!

We enjoyed our favourite Frigiliana cycle ride again this week, although there were a few more motorcyclists about due to the holidays - Santa needs to bring some of them cycle helmets! Also saw our walking friends Mike & Roz in 'Irish Annies', a local bar where Mike & some chums play folk music & the Guiness is keptwell.

Wonderful to be able to spend Christmas Eve lunch eating a fantastic Paella on the beach in the sun.

As we won't have access to the internet tomorrow, we will take this opportunity to wish everyone a Merry Christmas & Happy New Year.

FELIZ NAVIDAD!!!

Friday 21 December 2007

Local Entertainments

Repeated the walk into the rio Chillar from Capistrano - thought we ought to make sure we know where we are going as we may take visitors there! Just as well as we got lost near the end & ended up on a very slippy steep slope. We promise to take future walkers the right route! Sue was very grateful for the use of a walking pole loaned to her over Christmas by Gill.
We passed the Ox-Man - a local who has a pair of oxen hitched to a plough which he uses instead of a tractor on the inaccessable parts of local fields. They look very smart, with red tassel fringes (just the oxen, not the man).
We went to see the latest Harry Potter film in english with spanish subtitles, in the Cultural Centre in Nerja. Only about 25 in the audience. Great not to have all the dross of adverts before the film, just a little low-budget Spanish film so well made we could understand it without knowing the language. Took in the B&W photo exhibition in the lobby of the Centre - 50's & 60's shots of Nerja & inhabitants. Roads having cobbles laid, women fetching water from the various town communal supply points.
Our Caretaker at the Flats has found other distractions from clearing the leaves out of his beloved fountains. He has installed a string of yellow flashing lights over the access gate, & spent the good part of a day up a ladder trying to coax his cat down from the large tree at the entrance. As usual, in Spain, he soon attracted an audience of local men who seem to have nothing else to do. We wondered how long it would be before he resorted to his trusty chainsaw!
We were fortunate to attend "Luces de Invierno" (Lights of Winter) performed in a small 16thC chapel. A gorgeous church incorporating lots of gold filigree, but not gaudy. The ladies choir sang 16th century songs in English, French, Spanish, Latin and German, accompanied by a cellist, violins and flamenco guitars - very professional. The chapel was packed - and finished with a moving rendition of Silent Night sung by the audience in a variety of languages.
We are getting in the Christmas spirit, & are looking forward to seeing Santa when he visits Nerja on Sunday. We have been told to put sweets & a note at the door of the Church (Sue v hopeful will produce results!) Hopefully his reindeer won't tangle with the oxen, could be messy!!!

Sunday 16 December 2007

Nearing Christmas

12/12 - approximately 20 people on today's walk, including 1 Canadian lady, escaping the wet & cold winter of Nova Scotia. A ridge walk to the viewpoint of Cruz De Pinto. The shrine here built by a grateful sea captain & his crew after their miraculous escape from a ship wreck on these shores. A steep, slippy descent to a country road & the rio Chillar, spotting a Short-toed Eagle on the way.
We are so used to Spanish ways that we no longer remark when a car, delivery van or motorbike drives along the riverbed! It can't do the vehicles any good, but everybody does it. There are numerous properties to which this is the only access.
13/12 - exploring by bicycle country lanes north of Nerja. A few promising routes came to nothing, but all passing interesting little farms. Ate our picnic lunch at a well-tended shrine to the Virgen of Lourdes. Most of the avocado crop now picked, but there are plenty of oranges & lemons still on the trees, & bananas coming on behind.
14/12 - walked up rio Chillar & Hiqueron riverbeds, then by road up to the Castillo above Frigiliana, & back down to the village by wonderful windey cobbled streets.
15/12 - walked to Burriana Beach & up to Maro road, finding a little footpath back via fields. Noticed a few more holidaymakers about including children (school hols already?). Visited the very friendly Spanish lady owner of the Hotel Regina where we stayed when we arrived in Nerja. Joined her in the bar to watch a terrible Spanish soap. It made Eastenders look cheerful. It was obvious to our hostess we were not taking it seriously, so she gave us an old-fashioned look & assured us that the programme was "muy romantica"!
16/12 - 1st cloudy day for weeks! Cycled coast road to La Herredura, trying to spot mountain road turnoff recommended by Gill. Eventually found it obscured by roadworks,but no time to explore it on this trip - will definitely return now we know where it is.
Stopped for usual wonderful sea view at Cerro Gordo - searching with binoculars the natural park cliff slopes below the road for ibex. After spotting none we gave up & turned to our bikes, to see a family group of 6 ibex close by on the slopes above, silently watching us (no doubt wondering what we were looking for!)

Tuesday 11 December 2007

Local News

The local papers make interesting reading - there is always some local authority scandal with a mayor being locked up for some misdemeanour or other. This week it was the turn of our neighbouring village of La Herradura - the sports centre has been built on protected land, so the mayor may have to pay for it to be demolished and be banned for life from public office!

The same paper explained the new penalty points system for drivers - amongst one of the more severe offences is "putting a cyclist at risk" - no wonder the drivers are all so careful to avoid us!

There is a general election here in March 2008 - both main parties are hoping to win votes with reduced tax and higher pensions (wonder who is going to pay for that?) Global warming is not high on their agenda. Spain is the EUs worst polluter with regard to carbon emmissions, but the opposition leader seems less than convinced on Global Warming (to quote) - "they can't tell me what the weather will be in Seville tomorrow, so why should I believe their forecast for 300 years time"! (In case you are interested the Spanish PM is the one who looks like Mr Bean).

The Christmas lights are on now in town - though quite a few bulbs have gone out already - electrics are not a Spanish strong point. Poinsettas are planted in all the roundabouts and municipal flower beds, and do look smart.

Our usual mix of cycling & walking this week again, in continued sunny weather. Animals spotted were black squirrel, ibex & a merlin.Walking chum Graham was convinced that every minor ground scraping was evidence of recent activity by wild boar hunting for food, however we have not heard or seen these beasts (yet!) As we near Christmas our local friends are preparing to return to the UK, abandoning us for the holiday. Any excuse for a meal out, we had an "Abandonment Lunch" with them on Monday, in a very Spanish local restaurant - great food, wine & company.

Final word this week goes to our improving Spanish - we learnt the word for "retirement" in Spanish is "Jubilacion" - very appropriate, as we are thoroughly celebrating ours!!!

Monday 3 December 2007

Coast & countryside

27/11/07 - cycled N340 east to Herredura & around old coast road, avoiding nasty tunnel. Natural coast park area known as Cerro Gordo. No traffic & wonderful sea views. Lots of sightings of ibex.
28/11 - Gill & Andrew gave us a lift to the hill village of Competa, where we had time to look around the lovely village square & cobbled streets before meeting up with a walking group they have introduced us to. Mike (another one!) & Ros led the 16 strong group up to a local summit with fine views from a Firewatch Hut. John in the group, (recently moved with wife Liz from Poole) is a very keen racing cyclist. He hopes to introduce us to some cycling routes. He has 4 bikes including a carbon fibre one that can be lifted with one finger - just a tad lighter than ours then!!! Hope we can keep up with him!
29/11 - cycled west along N340 to Torrox Costa via short detour into local hills. Then a few blissful hours on the beach promenade people/fishing boat-watching.
Each evening this week we have watched terrific sunsets at around 6pm over the sea, a back-drop to local men fishing off the rocks.
30/11 - took the bus to Frigiliana & walked a well-marked mountain path to the peak known as El Fuerte (The Fort) at 1005metres. Evidence of recent forest fires as all the trees on 2 slopes were burnt & dead. The herb undergrowth, lemon thyme & rosemary, have regrown.
01/12 - cycled our favourite route out north west past Frigiliana to the shrine of "Our Lady of Monserrat". Ate in the evening at the restaurant adjacent to the gates of our apartment block, newly re-opened after a 2-week refurbishment. Very pleasant & friendly staff.
02/12 - cycled out to Cerro Gordo again, & this time took the new road down to the beach. Lots of locals sunbathing in this very sheltered spot. The road up was too steep to cycle, so a long hot push.
03/12 - the tasteful Christmas lights are up in town, but not switched on yet (how sensible). We have splashed out 75cents on a tiny Santa to hang on our patio!!!
Our apartment block is called "Las Fuentes" (The Fountains). One week after our moving in on 01/11/07, the Caretaker drained down the extensive fountains which are the key (only!) feature of the complex. He has since painstakingly cleaned them out & repainted them. At long last today he refilled them & turned them on again, much to our delight & that of all the little birds who inhabit our orange trees. He has now however, taken his chainsaw to the beautifully flowering hibiscus bushes! (Alan Titchmarsh he is not!)