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Wednesday 21 November 2012
Tuesday 6 November 2012
Finale: Homeward bound...
Hazy sunshine brings a comfortable temperature to our ride this morning. We are soon heading through San Fernando, passing the station on a superb cycle path (could this be where the 'Last train to San Fernando' was heading?)
We stop at an unspoilt 1950's diner for second breakfast, and who should be inside - the local Sheriffs - who wave at us cheerily through the window as we dismount!
Then we head for the 18thC Mission, beautifully preserved in its extensive grounds.
Now we enter rock strewn canyon country, where the first Western movies were filmed. This is the old road by-passed by a Freeway, so no traffic! There is a steady climb over Susana Pass Road, and a drop into Simi Valley. Another great cycle path by the river provides some traffic-free miles and a birding opportunity - White-faced Ibis and Redwinged Blackbirds.
We are the first cyclists our Warmshowers hosts Bernie and Diana have had, as they are not on any national route. We spend a great evening with them and some of their neighbours.
Next morning we follow Bernie's route onto Mulholland Drive and down Topanga Canyon. As it is Saturday there are Lycra cyclists about and lots of folks heading down to Venice Beach. We meet up with Harriet right on schedule, and in time to celebrate her birthday: lunch at the Tasting Kitchen and retail therapy at Bloomingdales with an evening stroll on the pier at Santa Monica.
The election is happening at last after months of hype, "our" local library is coping as a polling station, with none of the 3hr queues occurring in Florida!
It only remains to package the bikes and fly home tomorrow. Thanks to everyone who helped us on the way.
Total tour miles: 3,217
We stop at an unspoilt 1950's diner for second breakfast, and who should be inside - the local Sheriffs - who wave at us cheerily through the window as we dismount!
Then we head for the 18thC Mission, beautifully preserved in its extensive grounds.
Now we enter rock strewn canyon country, where the first Western movies were filmed. This is the old road by-passed by a Freeway, so no traffic! There is a steady climb over Susana Pass Road, and a drop into Simi Valley. Another great cycle path by the river provides some traffic-free miles and a birding opportunity - White-faced Ibis and Redwinged Blackbirds.
We are the first cyclists our Warmshowers hosts Bernie and Diana have had, as they are not on any national route. We spend a great evening with them and some of their neighbours.
Next morning we follow Bernie's route onto Mulholland Drive and down Topanga Canyon. As it is Saturday there are Lycra cyclists about and lots of folks heading down to Venice Beach. We meet up with Harriet right on schedule, and in time to celebrate her birthday: lunch at the Tasting Kitchen and retail therapy at Bloomingdales with an evening stroll on the pier at Santa Monica.
The election is happening at last after months of hype, "our" local library is coping as a polling station, with none of the 3hr queues occurring in Florida!
It only remains to package the bikes and fly home tomorrow. Thanks to everyone who helped us on the way.
Total tour miles: 3,217
Location:Santa Clarita to Los Angeles
Thursday 1 November 2012
Epilogue Part 5: Sandy roads...
Hesperia is full of shopping malls, with fast food signs taller than the palm trees.
However, the desert is still all around. We take the opportunity to take a ramble on foot as it is so difficult to move across the sand on a bike! Jack Rabbits bounce away from us - they are just like our hares except their ears are translucent, to loose heat.
Tiny lizards nip everywhere and pale crickets hop about.
Back in the hotel, the CNN coverage of Hurricane Sandy shows the east coast weather worsening. The Tall Ship HMS Bounty (a replica vessel built for the film "Bounty") has sunk in the storm. The 16 crew abandoned ship, 14 are saved, one lady crew member drowned and the captain is missing. Eighty-plus homes have burnt down in New Jersey. Devastating.
We look on Google Streetview to see if there is a shoulder to ride on beside the only tarmaced road onwards to Palmdale, but it is impossible to differentiate, in their photos, between sand and tarmac with sand blown over it! As it is, next morning, the road across the desert has a shoulder some of the way, however dozens of red, ready-mix concrete lorries charge past us, just after the shoulder disappears and we really need it!
Then we are passed by a snow plough! Turns out they are used to shove the sand back off the highway.
We cycle across Lake Los Angeles which, like all the "lakes" around here, has evaporated away to a flat salty area. Edwards Air Force Base is nearby, so if one of the test flights misses the runway there is a featureless expanse to land on. The first Space Shuttle landings took place here.
We have been above 3000ft for the last week but after Palmdale the road is mostly down hill. A very enjoyable cycle now along the old, Solidad Canyon Road, empty of traffic as a new Freeway by-passes this valley. The picturesque, desolate San Gabriel Mountains are close by to the south, for miles.
There is one tunnel, but no problem as it is short and traffic free.
Tour miles to date: 3,133
However, the desert is still all around. We take the opportunity to take a ramble on foot as it is so difficult to move across the sand on a bike! Jack Rabbits bounce away from us - they are just like our hares except their ears are translucent, to loose heat.
Tiny lizards nip everywhere and pale crickets hop about.
Back in the hotel, the CNN coverage of Hurricane Sandy shows the east coast weather worsening. The Tall Ship HMS Bounty (a replica vessel built for the film "Bounty") has sunk in the storm. The 16 crew abandoned ship, 14 are saved, one lady crew member drowned and the captain is missing. Eighty-plus homes have burnt down in New Jersey. Devastating.
We look on Google Streetview to see if there is a shoulder to ride on beside the only tarmaced road onwards to Palmdale, but it is impossible to differentiate, in their photos, between sand and tarmac with sand blown over it! As it is, next morning, the road across the desert has a shoulder some of the way, however dozens of red, ready-mix concrete lorries charge past us, just after the shoulder disappears and we really need it!
Then we are passed by a snow plough! Turns out they are used to shove the sand back off the highway.
We cycle across Lake Los Angeles which, like all the "lakes" around here, has evaporated away to a flat salty area. Edwards Air Force Base is nearby, so if one of the test flights misses the runway there is a featureless expanse to land on. The first Space Shuttle landings took place here.
We have been above 3000ft for the last week but after Palmdale the road is mostly down hill. A very enjoyable cycle now along the old, Solidad Canyon Road, empty of traffic as a new Freeway by-passes this valley. The picturesque, desolate San Gabriel Mountains are close by to the south, for miles.
There is one tunnel, but no problem as it is short and traffic free.
Tour miles to date: 3,133
Location:Hesperia to Santa Clarita
Sunday 28 October 2012
Epilogue Part 4: Birding...
Our last morning in Yucca Valley we join the local birding group at Morongo valley reserve where they help us spot several firsts - Cedar Waxwings and American Pipit, we even spot the familiar Barn Owl.
After a second breakfast of blueberry pancakes at a local cafe, we drive our loaned jeep across the desert to nearby Black Rock and find a Cactus Wren before we are out of the car park.
Following a walking sand trail through the Joshua Trees to the top of the mountain gives us a view miles back down the sand valley. In the evening, sitting outside the cottage watching the sun go down, Gambels Quail run past, chattering away.
Just after dark a fire engine and ambulance, lights and sirens on, come flying past, over the sand into the hills. They come bouncing back minutes later, looking lost! We can't see flames anyway on the horizon.
In the morning, we push our bikes down the sandy road (alongside fresh coyote tracks) feeling so privileged to have been able to stay in the very heart of the desert.
Most villages have similar street names, eg Buena Vista, but around here they are more imaginative, we notice a Kickapoo Road and set out north on Old Woman Springs Road. There is sparse Sunday traffic so we can enjoy the desolate desert scenery. We complete 50 miles by lunch time but then the desert ends and we are slowed the next 27 miles by heavy traffic and too many traffic lights. Very tired , dusty and thirsty we gratefully book into a very friendly hotel at Hesperia. The top floor room gives panoramic views of the sun sinking over the desert hills we have just left (and is big enough to take our bikes as well!).
CNN are reporting non-stop on Hurricane Sandy which is battering the East coast USA.
They are predicting destruction as far north as NewYork. All flights on that coast are cancelled for tomorrow.
Tour miles to date: 3,029
After a second breakfast of blueberry pancakes at a local cafe, we drive our loaned jeep across the desert to nearby Black Rock and find a Cactus Wren before we are out of the car park.
Following a walking sand trail through the Joshua Trees to the top of the mountain gives us a view miles back down the sand valley. In the evening, sitting outside the cottage watching the sun go down, Gambels Quail run past, chattering away.
Just after dark a fire engine and ambulance, lights and sirens on, come flying past, over the sand into the hills. They come bouncing back minutes later, looking lost! We can't see flames anyway on the horizon.
In the morning, we push our bikes down the sandy road (alongside fresh coyote tracks) feeling so privileged to have been able to stay in the very heart of the desert.
Most villages have similar street names, eg Buena Vista, but around here they are more imaginative, we notice a Kickapoo Road and set out north on Old Woman Springs Road. There is sparse Sunday traffic so we can enjoy the desolate desert scenery. We complete 50 miles by lunch time but then the desert ends and we are slowed the next 27 miles by heavy traffic and too many traffic lights. Very tired , dusty and thirsty we gratefully book into a very friendly hotel at Hesperia. The top floor room gives panoramic views of the sun sinking over the desert hills we have just left (and is big enough to take our bikes as well!).
CNN are reporting non-stop on Hurricane Sandy which is battering the East coast USA.
They are predicting destruction as far north as NewYork. All flights on that coast are cancelled for tomorrow.
Tour miles to date: 3,029
Location:Yucca Valley to Hesperia
Friday 26 October 2012
Epilogue Part 3: Joshua Trees...
I forgot to mention in the last blog that we had stocked up on food to survive the remote Salton Sea area, but stopped gratefully at the only shop we had seen for 24 hrs, to buy a cold drink. Apart from a few cans of coke the shop sold mainly booze, & we were rather startled to see the "lady" owner was armed with a large pistol in a holster! You don't get that in Devon!
The cycle north out of Palm Springs is easy using the concrete paths laid everywhere for golf buggies! Finally we are back out in the desert heading past an enormous wind farm and then on up and up through bare stony mountains, to the small town of Morongo Valley. We have a picnic lunch in their Canyon Preserve, alive with birds.
The road today is generally a good tarmac surface, but in places sand has blown across the carriageway.
Onwards and upwards through a lunar sand, rock and Joshua Tree landscape until around 3200 feet we reach the town of Yucca Valley. Another 500 ft up a steep road, and out onto a sand desert track to the our hosts' wooden holiday cottage, high on a ridge, with breathtaking views of the desert all around.
Hummingbirds, Jays , Phainopepla & hawks abound in the native trees and shrubs around the house. There are coyote paw prints in the sand around the house, and next morning we sit outside watching a coyote walk across the opposite hillside.
Our host Craig is a keen birder, taking us birdwatching locally, and then he lends us his jeep for a side trip into the Mojave desert at Joshua Tree National Park.
One of the highlights of the entire trip, this beautiful high desert area is full of granite stones in giant heaps, interspersed with Joshua Trees and other native plants. At 5000ft the view back down, over the San Andreas fault and Coachella valley, to Palm Springs, is breathtaking.
We mostly have the park to ourselves, especially the sand roads, apart from climbers tackling shear rock-faces.
Tour miles to date: 2,958
The cycle north out of Palm Springs is easy using the concrete paths laid everywhere for golf buggies! Finally we are back out in the desert heading past an enormous wind farm and then on up and up through bare stony mountains, to the small town of Morongo Valley. We have a picnic lunch in their Canyon Preserve, alive with birds.
The road today is generally a good tarmac surface, but in places sand has blown across the carriageway.
Onwards and upwards through a lunar sand, rock and Joshua Tree landscape until around 3200 feet we reach the town of Yucca Valley. Another 500 ft up a steep road, and out onto a sand desert track to the our hosts' wooden holiday cottage, high on a ridge, with breathtaking views of the desert all around.
Hummingbirds, Jays , Phainopepla & hawks abound in the native trees and shrubs around the house. There are coyote paw prints in the sand around the house, and next morning we sit outside watching a coyote walk across the opposite hillside.
Our host Craig is a keen birder, taking us birdwatching locally, and then he lends us his jeep for a side trip into the Mojave desert at Joshua Tree National Park.
One of the highlights of the entire trip, this beautiful high desert area is full of granite stones in giant heaps, interspersed with Joshua Trees and other native plants. At 5000ft the view back down, over the San Andreas fault and Coachella valley, to Palm Springs, is breathtaking.
We mostly have the park to ourselves, especially the sand roads, apart from climbers tackling shear rock-faces.
Tour miles to date: 2,958
Location:Palm Springs to Yucca Valley
Wednesday 24 October 2012
Epilogue Part 2: Salton Sea...
After miles of flat desert, El Centro appears as an oasis with little farms around, irrigated to produce hay and straw. Employment in the area is provided also by a nearby prison and airforce base. However our "Warmshowers" host, Jon, is one of the border guards we have seen driving up and down! It is very interesting to hear about his job and to watch the last presidential debate with him on his enormous TV.
We set off north, to Salton Sea, for some birdwatching. This salty lake was formed in 1906 when the Colarado River burst its banks and an enormous area was submerged. It is gradually evaporating, and increasing in salinity as it does so.
We had two of our best bird ticks ever here - Burrowing Owl and Roadrunner!
The lake attracts enormous flocks of both white and brown pelicans. Although our route is flat, it is a tough 75 miles up to Bombay Beach,on the eastern shore, as the roads in places are terribly potholed, or just compacted sand or even worse - uncompacted sand! We are rewarded by the most fabulous sunset over the sea with the Choclate Mountains turning pink and the sky bright orange. We are camped 200 ft below sea level. It is almost impossible to get tent pegs to grip in the sand, so secure the tent to our bikes, which amazingly is enough to withstand the strong winds in the night.
Next morning we are on desert until lunchtime, then suddenly irrigation produces massive areas of farmed date palms, lemon orchards and vineyards.
Palm Springs is almost entirely golf resorts and gated communities, set in pristine irrigated gardens. Bob Hope Boulevard is one road that catches our eye.
Tour miles to date: 2,917
We set off north, to Salton Sea, for some birdwatching. This salty lake was formed in 1906 when the Colarado River burst its banks and an enormous area was submerged. It is gradually evaporating, and increasing in salinity as it does so.
We had two of our best bird ticks ever here - Burrowing Owl and Roadrunner!
The lake attracts enormous flocks of both white and brown pelicans. Although our route is flat, it is a tough 75 miles up to Bombay Beach,on the eastern shore, as the roads in places are terribly potholed, or just compacted sand or even worse - uncompacted sand! We are rewarded by the most fabulous sunset over the sea with the Choclate Mountains turning pink and the sky bright orange. We are camped 200 ft below sea level. It is almost impossible to get tent pegs to grip in the sand, so secure the tent to our bikes, which amazingly is enough to withstand the strong winds in the night.
Next morning we are on desert until lunchtime, then suddenly irrigation produces massive areas of farmed date palms, lemon orchards and vineyards.
Palm Springs is almost entirely golf resorts and gated communities, set in pristine irrigated gardens. Bob Hope Boulevard is one road that catches our eye.
Tour miles to date: 2,917
Location:El Centro to Palm Springs
Monday 22 October 2012
The Epilogue part 1:Desert...
We consider we have now earned a day off and so pedal locally, taking in fabulous Balboa Park. Not just pretty gardens but museums of all sorts, with the star of the show the buildings. These were nearly all built for a big exposition in 1915, in a grandiose Spanish style, with plenty of shady colonnades and fountains.
The best of the attractions for us are the Desert Garden, Timkin Art Museum and the Botanic Building, a shaded pavilion full of exotic ferns.
With almost 2 weeks before we are due back in LA, we head off east into the desert. At 4000 feet we camp in the tiny village of Live Oak Springs, spooked by the coyotes calling in the night. We spot our first White-breasted Nuthatch near the tent.
Next morning we are alongside the Mexican border fence at Jacumba, with border patrol vehicles nearly the only cars. We stop frequently to photo the granite craggy mountains.
The owners of the cafe at tiny Jacumba photo us to put on their website! We cycle through Plaster City, and find it to be just a large plaster-of-Paris factory.
Tour miles to date: 2,796
The best of the attractions for us are the Desert Garden, Timkin Art Museum and the Botanic Building, a shaded pavilion full of exotic ferns.
With almost 2 weeks before we are due back in LA, we head off east into the desert. At 4000 feet we camp in the tiny village of Live Oak Springs, spooked by the coyotes calling in the night. We spot our first White-breasted Nuthatch near the tent.
Next morning we are alongside the Mexican border fence at Jacumba, with border patrol vehicles nearly the only cars. We stop frequently to photo the granite craggy mountains.
The owners of the cafe at tiny Jacumba photo us to put on their website! We cycle through Plaster City, and find it to be just a large plaster-of-Paris factory.
Tour miles to date: 2,796
Location:San Diego to El Centro
Friday 19 October 2012
Journey's end...
From Carlsbad our trail is all along the seashore where there is good surf so every bay is full of (mainly) chaps running in and out of the waves with a board under their arms. One bloke on a bike whizzes past us. He has fitted a petrol motor, which half way up the next hill emits an acrid burning smell, heralding the end of his speed and he pushes the bike & board the rest of the way.
Surprisingly smelly Elephant Seals share the beach with locals at the pretty seaside town of La Jolla, then we are up near Balboa Park, San Diego, where the detached houses have all been built in a Spanish style. Linda and Dom welcome us into their home and help plan our route to the border.
Next morning we follow the Bay cycle route down the bay to the Tijuana River, overlooked by Mexican houses high on a bluff. A very substantial metal fence winds away into the interior hills and across the beach out to sea. Five American helicopters buzz overhead continually. Border patrol vehicles move alongside the fence. There is an enormous concrete bull ring and a lighthouse just beyond the fence. A Mexican fisherman mends his net on the beach, but we have our side to ourselves.
After taking photos to prove we made it, a bike path takes up the Caronada Peninsula to a bicycle ferry. Two cyclists we had spotted heading to the border introduce themselves. They have just finished their trip too and are returning home to Denmark - one has a new Thorn bike!
By lucky coincidence Darren (married to niece Claire) is on a big Motor Yacht in a marina in San Diego, so we can celebrate achieving our border to border goal with him over a few beers before negotiating Downtown in the dark and back up the hill to Linda and Dom.
Tour miles to date: 2,657
Surprisingly smelly Elephant Seals share the beach with locals at the pretty seaside town of La Jolla, then we are up near Balboa Park, San Diego, where the detached houses have all been built in a Spanish style. Linda and Dom welcome us into their home and help plan our route to the border.
Next morning we follow the Bay cycle route down the bay to the Tijuana River, overlooked by Mexican houses high on a bluff. A very substantial metal fence winds away into the interior hills and across the beach out to sea. Five American helicopters buzz overhead continually. Border patrol vehicles move alongside the fence. There is an enormous concrete bull ring and a lighthouse just beyond the fence. A Mexican fisherman mends his net on the beach, but we have our side to ourselves.
After taking photos to prove we made it, a bike path takes up the Caronada Peninsula to a bicycle ferry. Two cyclists we had spotted heading to the border introduce themselves. They have just finished their trip too and are returning home to Denmark - one has a new Thorn bike!
By lucky coincidence Darren (married to niece Claire) is on a big Motor Yacht in a marina in San Diego, so we can celebrate achieving our border to border goal with him over a few beers before negotiating Downtown in the dark and back up the hill to Linda and Dom.
Tour miles to date: 2,657
Location:Carlsbad to Mexican border
Wednesday 17 October 2012
Oil rigs and a ghost...
As we walk home, on our last evening out at Venice Beach, we disturb a large raccoon showing too much interest on the trash bins, on the street for the morning collection.
Harriet is away earlier than us next day, 6.30!, as she has a delegation of 800 people to shepherd at the hotel. We have a more leisurely start, weaving along the dead level beach cycle-path to Redondo Beach. There is an old wooden pier here for rod fisherman, and fish stalls, one selling piles of live crabs.
We had cycled here on the hotel bikes last year and are pleased to see again the brown pelicans sitting on the railings.
Then our only climb of the day and down to Wilmington, an industrial area dominated by an oil refinery. No provision for cyclists on a busy potholed road so a relief to turn off at Long Beach, pretty much as it says on the label, a beautiful clean long sandy beach for miles.
All day the slight sea breeze, swaying the rows of palm trees, keeps the temperature bearable. Next, Seal Beach is familiar as we drove here in H's car earlier this year, and then cycled up the San Gabriel River cycle-path on our folders. This time we cross the river to carry on south. Bolso Chico Beach is also "deja vu"as we visited it last time too, to bird watch on the lake.
The pier at Huntington beach is picturesque, oil rigs are anchored on the horizon and silent nodding donkeys pull up oil on our left. There are even three squeezed in among the cars in the civic centre car park! The lovely family we stay with are surfers and sailors primarily, as to be expected in such a lovely seaside location, but Brian and his mum are keen to do more bike touring when they can.
Next morning there is a little mist along the beachside route. A bit further on Laguna Beach is disappointing as the road is very busy and the shoulder used for parking. At the coffee stop at Crystal Cove, we spot our first California Thasher, foraging in the chaparral alongside.
The route improves as we enter the state park at San Onofre, where we are rewarded with miles of quiet road by the shore, with hardly any cars.
We pass our first "ghost" bike, a white painted bike attached to a fence to mark where a cyclist has been killed in a road accident. The next ten miles are through a large military base so we have to show our passports. It's a quiet ride apart from helicopters constantly overhead, including one apparently keeping a really close eye on us!
Not far from the beach at Carlsbad is the gorgeous home of Gary and Lee (and their two retriever crosses). Last week they had a very heavy rain storm! As a result 4 little frogs have been washed into their swimming pool. They seem very happy swimming around.
We all watch the 2nd presidential debate on TV. To us it seems the president is more proactive and feisty than at the previous match.
Their next door neighbour is hosting a native American drumming/chanting evening which provides an atmospheric background (it reminds us of an Exeter "Chiefs" rugby match)!
Tour miles to date: 2,560
Harriet is away earlier than us next day, 6.30!, as she has a delegation of 800 people to shepherd at the hotel. We have a more leisurely start, weaving along the dead level beach cycle-path to Redondo Beach. There is an old wooden pier here for rod fisherman, and fish stalls, one selling piles of live crabs.
We had cycled here on the hotel bikes last year and are pleased to see again the brown pelicans sitting on the railings.
Then our only climb of the day and down to Wilmington, an industrial area dominated by an oil refinery. No provision for cyclists on a busy potholed road so a relief to turn off at Long Beach, pretty much as it says on the label, a beautiful clean long sandy beach for miles.
All day the slight sea breeze, swaying the rows of palm trees, keeps the temperature bearable. Next, Seal Beach is familiar as we drove here in H's car earlier this year, and then cycled up the San Gabriel River cycle-path on our folders. This time we cross the river to carry on south. Bolso Chico Beach is also "deja vu"as we visited it last time too, to bird watch on the lake.
The pier at Huntington beach is picturesque, oil rigs are anchored on the horizon and silent nodding donkeys pull up oil on our left. There are even three squeezed in among the cars in the civic centre car park! The lovely family we stay with are surfers and sailors primarily, as to be expected in such a lovely seaside location, but Brian and his mum are keen to do more bike touring when they can.
Next morning there is a little mist along the beachside route. A bit further on Laguna Beach is disappointing as the road is very busy and the shoulder used for parking. At the coffee stop at Crystal Cove, we spot our first California Thasher, foraging in the chaparral alongside.
The route improves as we enter the state park at San Onofre, where we are rewarded with miles of quiet road by the shore, with hardly any cars.
We pass our first "ghost" bike, a white painted bike attached to a fence to mark where a cyclist has been killed in a road accident. The next ten miles are through a large military base so we have to show our passports. It's a quiet ride apart from helicopters constantly overhead, including one apparently keeping a really close eye on us!
Not far from the beach at Carlsbad is the gorgeous home of Gary and Lee (and their two retriever crosses). Last week they had a very heavy rain storm! As a result 4 little frogs have been washed into their swimming pool. They seem very happy swimming around.
We all watch the 2nd presidential debate on TV. To us it seems the president is more proactive and feisty than at the previous match.
Their next door neighbour is hosting a native American drumming/chanting evening which provides an atmospheric background (it reminds us of an Exeter "Chiefs" rugby match)!
Tour miles to date: 2,560
Location:Venice beach to Carlsbad
Sunday 14 October 2012
Four days in LA...
We are happily ensconced in a neighbouring apartment to Harriet, one street back from Venice Beach. After a bit of personal grooming and clothes washing, we wander to the end of Washington Boulevard for breakfast of blueberry pancakes, endless coffee refills and an even bigger portion of people watching. Folks whizz past on skateboards (Mike says I can't have a go as I would probably break a leg), cyclists pedal along on high handle-barred beach-cruisers & the early rising homeless search through bins for returnable bottles and cans.
Next on our easy agenda is a spot of tourist strolling as we wander the back streets of this Venice like area where high value houses set in trendy gardens front narrow canals interspersed with charming little bridges.
In the evening we wander along the wide pale sands watching the surfers enjoy the last few hours of sunshine.
Friday morning, BJ a local expert birder, picks us up and takes us bird watching at the Playa del Rey area, helping us identify, gulls, divers, waders and one of our favourites, White-crowned Sparrows.
A stroll along Venice beach photographing the murals , getting offered marijuana and admiring the bodybuilders, is a must do.
Saturday morning finds us spectating at the paddle tennis courts just along the beach. Played with bats like table tennis on concrete 2/3rd size tennis courts its a fast moving, entertaining game. We "Skype " Chris in London for the first time this trip so it is great to catch up on news. He shows us his flat by taking the laptop into each room and Harriet does the same with her flat as she has moved to this address since he visited. After this we grabbed another few hours on the beach.
Sunday we join the LA Audubon (birding group), driving Harriets car up through Santa Monica, pass the famous pier, through the luxurious mansions of Beverly Hills to the State Park of Franklin Canyon. As we have found before this is a very friendly group who help us see 7 species new to us. Coyotes call to each other near by.
Coopers Hawk
Next on our easy agenda is a spot of tourist strolling as we wander the back streets of this Venice like area where high value houses set in trendy gardens front narrow canals interspersed with charming little bridges.
In the evening we wander along the wide pale sands watching the surfers enjoy the last few hours of sunshine.
Friday morning, BJ a local expert birder, picks us up and takes us bird watching at the Playa del Rey area, helping us identify, gulls, divers, waders and one of our favourites, White-crowned Sparrows.
A stroll along Venice beach photographing the murals , getting offered marijuana and admiring the bodybuilders, is a must do.
Saturday morning finds us spectating at the paddle tennis courts just along the beach. Played with bats like table tennis on concrete 2/3rd size tennis courts its a fast moving, entertaining game. We "Skype " Chris in London for the first time this trip so it is great to catch up on news. He shows us his flat by taking the laptop into each room and Harriet does the same with her flat as she has moved to this address since he visited. After this we grabbed another few hours on the beach.
Sunday we join the LA Audubon (birding group), driving Harriets car up through Santa Monica, pass the famous pier, through the luxurious mansions of Beverly Hills to the State Park of Franklin Canyon. As we have found before this is a very friendly group who help us see 7 species new to us. Coyotes call to each other near by.
Coopers Hawk
Location:Los Angeles
Thursday 11 October 2012
Cycling legends...
Candy leaves early in the morning to teach a class of local 5 and 6 year olds. The excitement of our visit is too much for their miniature dachshund who hides under his blanket. Bill makes us a heap of blueberry pancakes before hobbling off to the doc with his injured knee. As we depart he recalls one intrepid warm-shower guest they recently had stay; an American lady who cycled 50 miles to them, on a Brompton folder, in heavy rain, on her 74th birthday!
In the fields to the south, cauliflowers are being picked by hand and there are vineyards and olive groves. Two big hills in the morning of 900ft and 1000ft with a welcome tail wind are a bit wearing, but it is flat then by the ocean to Santa Barbara. Four oil rigs are parked on the horizon.
The city is backed by dramatic sandy coloured mountains. Palm trees and orange groves replace the eucalyptus (at last) giving us a holiday feel.
Curtis lives in a wood & glass house blending into his natural garden in the foothills, with oranges trees by the driveway. He is a touring cyclist legend, with newspaper clippings of his first long USA tour in the late 1950s. His latest trip,this summer, was to mountainous Glacier State Park, with breathtaking photos to prove it.
We have a day sightseeing in Santa Barbara, where the historic centre has been tastefully retained including the magnificent courthouse, where there is a panoramic city/mountain/sea view from the tower top.
There are beautiful blue and white Spanish tiles throughout the corridors of this moorish-style building.
Santa Barbara Mission was founded by the Spanish in the early 1800s and again beautifully preserved.
The best place to bird watch in the area is Curtis's back garden! Hawks, Jays, Mourning Doves, Hummingbirds and American Robins are all at home here.
The next day we pedal off early , and Curtis is off to breakfast on his Vespa! The first rain of our trip is forecast so there is a cloudy start but the showers don't materialise. We do get wet passing a turf farm with the sprinklers on! Lunch by turquoise sea after 50 miles at a great fast food fish restaurant and then we are in familiar territory as we reach Malibu and finally Venice Beach at 5 o'clock, after 95 miles, the longest day of this trip.
Harriet's lovely neighbour, chef Lisa, invites us in for tea and chocolate brownies as she spots us waiting for Harriet.
It is so good to catch up with Harriet who is soon home from work.
Tour miles to date: 2,355
In the fields to the south, cauliflowers are being picked by hand and there are vineyards and olive groves. Two big hills in the morning of 900ft and 1000ft with a welcome tail wind are a bit wearing, but it is flat then by the ocean to Santa Barbara. Four oil rigs are parked on the horizon.
The city is backed by dramatic sandy coloured mountains. Palm trees and orange groves replace the eucalyptus (at last) giving us a holiday feel.
Curtis lives in a wood & glass house blending into his natural garden in the foothills, with oranges trees by the driveway. He is a touring cyclist legend, with newspaper clippings of his first long USA tour in the late 1950s. His latest trip,this summer, was to mountainous Glacier State Park, with breathtaking photos to prove it.
We have a day sightseeing in Santa Barbara, where the historic centre has been tastefully retained including the magnificent courthouse, where there is a panoramic city/mountain/sea view from the tower top.
There are beautiful blue and white Spanish tiles throughout the corridors of this moorish-style building.
Santa Barbara Mission was founded by the Spanish in the early 1800s and again beautifully preserved.
The best place to bird watch in the area is Curtis's back garden! Hawks, Jays, Mourning Doves, Hummingbirds and American Robins are all at home here.
The next day we pedal off early , and Curtis is off to breakfast on his Vespa! The first rain of our trip is forecast so there is a cloudy start but the showers don't materialise. We do get wet passing a turf farm with the sprinklers on! Lunch by turquoise sea after 50 miles at a great fast food fish restaurant and then we are in familiar territory as we reach Malibu and finally Venice Beach at 5 o'clock, after 95 miles, the longest day of this trip.
Harriet's lovely neighbour, chef Lisa, invites us in for tea and chocolate brownies as she spots us waiting for Harriet.
It is so good to catch up with Harriet who is soon home from work.
Tour miles to date: 2,355
Location:Orcutt to Venice Beach
Monday 8 October 2012
Cactus & Cyclists...
Soon after San Simeon the road heads inland into real cowboy country, arid hilly farms of black cattle with big cacti growing at their wooden gates. There is a wide shoulder and light Saturday traffic. We pass a parked black and white traffic Highway Patrol car, who becomes surprisingly busy whizzing up and down with lights flashing and sirens blazing.
A detour takes us through tidy Cambria, a one street town of traditional wooden buildings, nearly all converted to holiday accommodation. The next settlement, Harmony, boasts "population 18" and seems to be one farm. Then there are still, burnt plains and farms on the left, but beautiful turquoise Estero Bay alongside on the right. A few surfers catch small waves.
At Morro Bay we camp in the State Park in a eucalyptus grove. These trees non-native trees were introduced as windbreaks everywhere, making some places look like outback Oz. The stringy bark and tough banana-shaped leaves are everywhere underfoot.
A natural history museum, perched on the headland, explains the flora and fauna and with a birds eye view of the Bay and across to Morro Rock, a granite volcanic plug rising high from the water.
Brown Pelicans fly feet away just outside the observatory glass and below 6 seals arch together out of the still waters. In the evening we follow a bird watching board- walk around the estuary and marvel as thousands of waders and pelicans circle and land nearby.
We recognise the other 3 American cyclists at our camp, one couple on their first tour, with a Bob trailer (Janet and Ian will remember, as we met them in a lay-by and we were impressed by their telescopic bike-stands!?) The other is a younger chap who has been beating us up all the hills.
Next day, more arid cattle and horse ranches inland and then the valley widens out to fertile farm land, raising strawberries, pumpkins, vines and flowers. "Nodding donkeys" are silently pumping up oil.
Pismo Beach is a holiday destination with the miles of sand dunes backed by dozens of motels and crowded RV Sites.
Back in the countryside, at Guadalope, the one street is of single storey traditional buildings, with Spanish signs.All the customers at the village shop are speaking Spanish. One poster is in English, with a picture of a lady bullfighter, advertising a 4 bull "bloodless bullfight"? Not sure how that works.
The wind is at our backs as we follow the straight rail line into historic Orcutt, an oil town established in 1910. Pastel painted wooden houses line the centre of town. In the modern outskirts we are welcomed by Bill, an avid cyclist who has just returned from cycling British Columbia (where we started back in August). He injured his knee mountain biking today and so is hobbling around, but this doesn't stop him barbecuing us a lovely beef supper.
Tour miles to date: 2,178
A detour takes us through tidy Cambria, a one street town of traditional wooden buildings, nearly all converted to holiday accommodation. The next settlement, Harmony, boasts "population 18" and seems to be one farm. Then there are still, burnt plains and farms on the left, but beautiful turquoise Estero Bay alongside on the right. A few surfers catch small waves.
At Morro Bay we camp in the State Park in a eucalyptus grove. These trees non-native trees were introduced as windbreaks everywhere, making some places look like outback Oz. The stringy bark and tough banana-shaped leaves are everywhere underfoot.
A natural history museum, perched on the headland, explains the flora and fauna and with a birds eye view of the Bay and across to Morro Rock, a granite volcanic plug rising high from the water.
Brown Pelicans fly feet away just outside the observatory glass and below 6 seals arch together out of the still waters. In the evening we follow a bird watching board- walk around the estuary and marvel as thousands of waders and pelicans circle and land nearby.
We recognise the other 3 American cyclists at our camp, one couple on their first tour, with a Bob trailer (Janet and Ian will remember, as we met them in a lay-by and we were impressed by their telescopic bike-stands!?) The other is a younger chap who has been beating us up all the hills.
Next day, more arid cattle and horse ranches inland and then the valley widens out to fertile farm land, raising strawberries, pumpkins, vines and flowers. "Nodding donkeys" are silently pumping up oil.
Pismo Beach is a holiday destination with the miles of sand dunes backed by dozens of motels and crowded RV Sites.
Back in the countryside, at Guadalope, the one street is of single storey traditional buildings, with Spanish signs.All the customers at the village shop are speaking Spanish. One poster is in English, with a picture of a lady bullfighter, advertising a 4 bull "bloodless bullfight"? Not sure how that works.
The wind is at our backs as we follow the straight rail line into historic Orcutt, an oil town established in 1910. Pastel painted wooden houses line the centre of town. In the modern outskirts we are welcomed by Bill, an avid cyclist who has just returned from cycling British Columbia (where we started back in August). He injured his knee mountain biking today and so is hobbling around, but this doesn't stop him barbecuing us a lovely beef supper.
Tour miles to date: 2,178
Location:San Simeon to Orcutt
Friday 5 October 2012
Seals & red mountains...
The good thing about a camp site up the top of the hill is that it is an easy downhill next morning! Monterey has a brilliant dedicated cycle path all through the historic Cannery Row waterfront, with Steinbeck quotes interspersed with murals, reminding us of the sardine canning days.
Just past the old wooden jetty, Harbour Seals are asleep on rocks, right by the path. One particularly plump one on his back, snoring!
"17 mile drive" State park has very little traffic and takes us around a wonderful rocky headland, where Sea-lions bark like dogs on offshore rock outcrops. Then comes Pebble Beach Championship golf course and large expensive houses, all in big plots, protected by security gates. They favour faux-Chateau or Hispanic "style", and red Ferraris! In the equally prosperous small town of Carmel we only spot it's famous ex-mayor (Clint Eastwood) on a film festival poster. The hotels are all "bijou" and the shops full of luxury goods. We admire the faultless white sand beach and carry on to a coast-hugging road of stunning bridges and views. Our home for the night is a camp spot amongst the trees of Pffeifer Big Sur State Park. At dusk a "pesky" raccoon has a sniff round our camp table, but we know better, and have not left him any encouraging morsels.
The steep road out of Big Sur is surrounded by red mountains as the low covering bushes take on a warm autumn colour. Then, spectacularly, the road emerges on the mountain side, high above the sea and then continues for another 50miles, all the while clinging to the cliff edge. At one point we are looking from bright sunlight down through mist to the waves.
The road is the star today, as we don't dive down into valleys but instead cross high bridges. There are roadworks where a new bridge is being built with a roof over to shelter the traffic from rock falls. The surface is pitted from boulders in lots of places and a few recent falls litter the tarmac. The traffic is light and there are lots of places to pull over and gawp. Sea-lions can be heard barking in most coves.
10 miles from San Simeon we can see the famous disneyish Hearst "Castle", high on the hillside, but we are more interested in the beach. Here a colony of enormous Elephant Seals are lying on the sand, the bigger black males standing upright on the surf, posturing.
These seals were all but wiped out by hunters, and only returned in the 1990s, with the colony now 1000s strong. They don't seem to mind humans watching them from only feet away.
Tour miles to date: 2,126
Just past the old wooden jetty, Harbour Seals are asleep on rocks, right by the path. One particularly plump one on his back, snoring!
"17 mile drive" State park has very little traffic and takes us around a wonderful rocky headland, where Sea-lions bark like dogs on offshore rock outcrops. Then comes Pebble Beach Championship golf course and large expensive houses, all in big plots, protected by security gates. They favour faux-Chateau or Hispanic "style", and red Ferraris! In the equally prosperous small town of Carmel we only spot it's famous ex-mayor (Clint Eastwood) on a film festival poster. The hotels are all "bijou" and the shops full of luxury goods. We admire the faultless white sand beach and carry on to a coast-hugging road of stunning bridges and views. Our home for the night is a camp spot amongst the trees of Pffeifer Big Sur State Park. At dusk a "pesky" raccoon has a sniff round our camp table, but we know better, and have not left him any encouraging morsels.
The steep road out of Big Sur is surrounded by red mountains as the low covering bushes take on a warm autumn colour. Then, spectacularly, the road emerges on the mountain side, high above the sea and then continues for another 50miles, all the while clinging to the cliff edge. At one point we are looking from bright sunlight down through mist to the waves.
The road is the star today, as we don't dive down into valleys but instead cross high bridges. There are roadworks where a new bridge is being built with a roof over to shelter the traffic from rock falls. The surface is pitted from boulders in lots of places and a few recent falls litter the tarmac. The traffic is light and there are lots of places to pull over and gawp. Sea-lions can be heard barking in most coves.
10 miles from San Simeon we can see the famous disneyish Hearst "Castle", high on the hillside, but we are more interested in the beach. Here a colony of enormous Elephant Seals are lying on the sand, the bigger black males standing upright on the surf, posturing.
These seals were all but wiped out by hunters, and only returned in the 1990s, with the colony now 1000s strong. They don't seem to mind humans watching them from only feet away.
Tour miles to date: 2,126
Location:Monterey to San Simeon
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