Tuesday 17 May 2016

Mini Tour to Brecon

As our old blog site is proving problematic, we are experimenting with a new one which is available at:

https://steller.co/lifecyclist

Location:Exeter

Monday 25 January 2016

Art Deco....

Miami Beach's Art Deco District is on the National Register of Historic Places, with 800 structures of historical significance, most built between 1923 and 1943. The fanciful pastel buildings, with porthole windows, ship-like railings, sleek curves, glass blocks, shiny chrome, gleaming terrazzo floors and, best of all at night, the neon signs.








Park Central, built in 1937 was the first hotel to be returned to its original splendor. The hotel was a hangout for Hollywood stars, such as Clark Gable, Carole Lombard, and Rita Hayworth. Our favourite, "Haddon Hall", with pink strip lights. Some are sophisticated quiet hotels, whilst at others the revellers are spilling on to the street as very loud Hispanic music blares. A big police presence keeps control, without spoiling the fun.

Tomorrow is our final day here so staying near the pool and Harriet taking us to the airport for the red-eye flight to Heathrow. Should be home Tuesday afternoon.

Location:Miami Beach

Sunday 24 January 2016

Weather....

We wake early and catch the sun rising over the beach from our hotel balcony.


CNN TV reports 40 ins (!!!) of snow in Virginia. All traffic has been banned on the roads of New York (a record breaking 25 ins so far, and still snowing). It is the Miami marathon today, and many participants are missing as snow-bound airports in central USA are shut and folks can't get here. On her way to work, Harriet spots the runners passing Port Miami, with the start just before dawn to avoid the day's heat.


After breakfast we swim a few lengths of the outdoor pool before anyone else thinks of it, then pedal down the beach to watch the surfers. Along the wide estuary path we share with a few other bikes, skate boarders and a very unsteady hover-boarder.
A couple of blocks away is the Holocaust memorial. An uncountable number of victims names, representing so many, many, more, are etched in black marble panels which reflect in the still lily pond.


Harriet is out tonight with work colleagues, to see Madonna on her "Rebel" tour, performing at the BasketBall stadium. She has a VIP ticket, so we are hoping for selfies with celebs!

Saturday 23 January 2016

Sand and Art....

Friday morning, and our last visit to the gym at Harriet's apartment block, where I tackle the on-road Marin County route, on the screen in front of the recumbent bike, whilst Mike samples an off-road, lake route on his bike. We say goodbye to the pussy cats, and pedal the 7 miles, over two bridges, to the Ritz Carlton Hotel on Miami Beach. Harriet ferried our luggage over when she drove to work at 7am, so everything is waiting for us in our room.
Saturday morning 6:30, and already one guest is doing lengths in the outdoor pool 10 storeys below our balcony. Joggers are running up and down the beach and boardwalk.
We stroll along the wide, white beach, photographing the colourful wooden Life Guard stations every 100 yds, and birdspotting. Police drive quad bikes, patrolling on the sand.




At Harriet's suggestion we visit two new stunning beach hotels, No1 has gorgeous tropical plants hanging from the ceilings and walls and drift wood sculptures, Hotel W shows off enormous Andy Warhol pictures throughout the marbled public areas - all incredibly opulent.




A Bentley, a Rolls Royce and a Bugatti are being valet parked as their owners hop out to enter the foyer.





Location:Miami Beach

Fisherfolk....

We take the folding bikes in Harriet's car 100 miles north, first up the 12 laned concrete US Highway 1, then 10 miles west through state nature parks, and past sugar cane farms. Hundreds of vultures follow the machines bringing in the crop.
Lake Okeechobee is the biggest in Florida (110 mile circumference) - so it looks more like a sea. There is a dedicated cycle path along the top of the wide dyke. We meet a couple of other cyclists, and flocks of Cattle Egret. There is water on the other side too as we are beside a wide channel. Every 5 miles or so there is a tunnel under the dyke and a manned (or actually womaned) lock to let small fishing boats pass from the channel into the lake.
At a small bridge we cross to a trailer park, where a very friendly Fishermans bar is run from a wooden shed. A staggeringly drunk couple leave as we enter, and are very interested in us, chatting amiably. Then they support each other to their Utility vehicle and drive off!!! We are glad we are not joining them on the road. It looks like they are following the advice we see in the bar.





The barmaid tells us there are alligators to be seen on the shores, but we don't spot them on our 8 mile return to the car.







Location:Lake Okeechobee

Tuesday 19 January 2016

Robot, Metromover & Basketball....

At Breakfast we keep an eye on the robot vacuum cleaner as it sweeps around us and the cats!







Then a wander through Downtown, and back on the free Metrorail.
This is an unmanned elevated train system that is about 3 storeys above ground, but sometimes sweeping higher, so great views of the city and waterfront, or in the windows of people's apartments!




We are out this evening to watch a basketball match at the nearby enormous American Airlines Arena. The local Miami Heat team are playing the Milwaukee Bucks. Amid the busy evening traffic, we "Uber" our way to the game. Unfortunately, we lose 79 to 91, but we enjoy the cold beer, giant pretzels and all the razzmatazz (including the dancing girls, and "Burnie", the Heat's mascot, who spent all evening either energetically acrobatic or hover-boarding across the pitch!)


















Location:Downtown Miami

Monday 18 January 2016

Icons....

Sunday is spent shopping with Harriet at iconic retail outlets (in the suburb of Kendall) including DSW designer shoes, Trader Joes and Macy's.








The latter is so big we get lost inside. On the plus side, they give us 10% discount just because we are foreign visitors! The mall food court is brilliant with cuisine from Japanese, American, Chinese, Thai and many others, and I love my Stromboli from the Italian counter.
We are in need of a cycle on Monday to counteract the shopping mall experience, and put in 32 miles along US Highway 1, pausing to look at the famous Bacardi Building and the Coppertone advert.

















We reach Oleta State Park where Ospreys are as common as the Buzzards back home. There are many families enjoying bbqs in the park as it is a national holiday for Martin Luther King Day.
Then we return in a circular route over a couple of bridges, where we have to hop onto the sidewalk. Pedestrians never complain at sharing with bikes, and are always so polite.








In a small pond beside the road, we spot a skulking wader, a Green Heron.











Location:US Highway 1

Sunday 17 January 2016

Puerto Rico festival....

It would be easy for this to become a food blog - today is no exception as the three of us walk to the Puerta Rico festival on the Wynwood streets.


There are about 50 stalls, mostly food ones - kebabs, savoury pancakes and lots of other fried goodies that we can't identify.


Other stalls sell piƱa coladas. Then there are the flags, hats and t-shirts, all with the Puertan Rican flag. There is very loud piped Salsa music and then a Salsa stage show.


The streets are absolutely full of people by lunch time, mostly Spanish speakers. The only downside is there is no South American beer, so we nip out to the nearby Wynwood craft brewery, where we buy sampler glasses of various samples - all delicious.



Location:Wynwood

Friday 15 January 2016

Mad cyclists....

We decide to cycle all the way back to Miami, rather than take the bus on the dual carriageway section. American guests at the hotel think we are mad as they wave us off in light rain, with possible thunderstorms forecast!
The dual carriageway section is very busy with lorries and RVs, but there is always a good hard shoulder for us. The first section is a long arching bridge over Surprise Lake, from where we look down onto Pelicans sitting in tree tops. From there the road passes through untouched swamp and mangroves. A warning sign tells us to watch out for crossing crocodiles!!


As we approach Florida City, we wave to a group of 6 American touring cyclists going the other way. So we are not the only mad ones! They don't look so happy, as they are weighed down with 5 panniers each and 2 trailers between them. Also they are heading into our tail wind.
We are amazed to make the 30 miles to Florida City in 2 hours. From there it is cycle path all the way to Downtown Miami, with the rain worsening all the time - about 1 mile from home a large black cloud appears, the wind suddenly increases, and there is a storm! We shelter under a road bridge, everyone runs for cover - the water comes up through drains, flooding the road and paths. We arrive back at the apartment, to form two large puddles on the kitchen floor. Today's 64 miles is the most we have ever done in one day on folding bikes!



Location:The Keys to Miami

Thursday 14 January 2016

Paddles, Pelicans & Lobsters....

Our last day on the Keys, and it is overcast with a few drops of rain! However, it is warm rain, so we hop on the bikes to explore locally, taking the Old Highway and quiet residential roads. Older houses are the traditional wooden bungalows of pastel shades with wooden shutters. In fact the oldest surviving house on the Keys is nearby - a restored, pastel blue, wooden structure with an enormous water barrel alongside that was used to collect rain water for drinking - a well was also used but only for flushing toilets etc as the only ground water is salty. Now all drinking water is piped from the mainland. Newer houses are hurricane-proof, supported on high concrete stilts, with cars and canoes stored underneath.
By lunchtime it is dry and the bay flat calm. Included in our hotel price is the use of kayaks so we take two out for a leisurely paddle. We have the entire bay to ourselves. Exploring up a channel, overhanging mangrove branches support groups of enormous coloured lizards (4 to 5 ft long). Ibises stand around on a small sandy beach. Then we spot a newish sign warning of recent crocodile sightings! We paddle back out to the bay rather quickly. Here the water is clear, with shoals of tiny fish darting through weed, and it's possible to approach very close to Pelicans without them minding.


After a hot shower we pedal off down a back road, through stacks of wooden lobster pots, to a marina full of small commercial fishing boats. At "The Fisheries", where lobster is off-loaded and sold, we order lobster and salad from the adjacent kitchen and eat the meal of the trip.


The customer on the next table to us is a fisherman, still wearing his wellies. More lobster is off-loaded from a small boat to the rear of the kitchen, and we notice a Pelican sitting in the boat! Other pelicans watch from the wooden jetties, hopeful of titbits.



Location:Key Largo

The Keys to history....

Dawn chorus is like waking in an
an aviary - so we take our coffee and wander through all the trees that are on our hotel site - spotting birds everywhere! My favourites are the red Northern Cardinals.


A 40 mile circular cycle south and back today - we weren't sure there is a cycle path all the way, but there is - always paved, sometimes in a park, other times right by the main road. There are views of mangrove covered islands from the concrete bridges. Second breakfast is taken at "Mangrove Mikes" cafe in Islamodura. A fantastic place, started by a local fishing guide and very popular with locals, especially fishermen. We bag the last table. Photos on the walls show "Mike" with famous visitors - including the Bushs. I have pancakes the size of a dinner plate with a whole punet of blueberries - I don't use the 1/4 pint of maple syrup. Mike has steak.


Alongside the cycle path are historical markers telling of the terrible hurricane in 1935 that killed many, and the disastrous rescue attempt by a train that was washed away.


There is also a memorial to the "Rafters", Cubans who tried to reach Florida on any craft they could find. Many perished.



Location:Islamorada

Tuesday 12 January 2016

Birds & beer....

Breakfast isn't included at our hotel, but they do provide free bananas, muffins, and good coffee all morning so we make do with that!
We pedal off to the nearest State Park, John Pennekamp - where the visitor centre has an enormous fish tank to show what the local coral reef and fish look like. We have their beach to ourselves, where we spot the tiny yellow and brown Palm Warbler and, further on, have really close views of Red-bellied Woodpeckers.




Back at "our" beach, red Northern Cardinals hop around the trees, and a Brown Pelican has a snooze on a boat mooring. Then an Osprey comes over very low, dangling an eel from his talons.
We are recommended a nearby restaurant that is just a couple of very large shacks on the waters edge. The seating is outside under a yellow tarpaulin. A good place for a couple of beers and a burger, followed of course by Key Lime pie.







Location:John Pennekamp State Park, Key Largo

Monday 11 January 2016

Bike & Bus....




We pack light bags for 5 days away as we head south on our Bromptons - passing Vizcaya Estate, a beautiful historic house and gardens, to pick up the Bike route "The East Coast Greenway". This follows the linear park under the overhead metro rail. After about 25 miles the elevated rail stops and we parallel Highway 1 on the lightly trafficked Old Dixie Highway, another 10 miles to Florida City. From here there is only the busy dual carriageway to Key Largo. Online info discourages cycling this part, so we hop on the express bus. A comfy fast coach, about a quarter full of passengers, and costing us totally just $5 for a 30 mile trip! We are the only non black passengers. The height of the coach means we get a panoramic view across the south Everglades and the eastern Keys as we travel, and bonus views of both Osprey and Belted Kingfisher adjacent to the road.


The helpful lady driver drops us right outside our hotel - mid afternoon. The tiny hotel has only 10 rooms, little bungalows with a private white sand beach - we test drive the hammocks, easier to get into than out of.


Our next door neighbours are a retired couple from Bolton - he is an avid road cyclist! We chat and drink cold beer at outside tables until the sun goes down.



Location:Key Largo

Saturday 9 January 2016

Manatees and yoga....

"The Daily" customers this Saturday morning are runners with tiny shorts and enormous watches (to record their statistics), celebrating their mileage with high-fives and hearty cooked breakfasts.





The park is also full of fitness folks before the sun gets too hot, with yoga classes the most popular.
A homeless man points out a large manatee, silently grazing the seaweed a few feet from shore. These mammals are protected, with signs everywhere warning fishermen and boats to give them space.




Harriet has the day off, so we go out to lunch, choosing a cuisine we have never tried before - Peruvian! At a waterside restaurant, Grackles (a bit like long tailed blackbirds) make a nuisance of themselves around the tables, hoping for titbits. The fish courses including octopus and skate are great, but the chocolate puddings are incredible!



Location:Margaret Pace Park, Miami

Friday 8 January 2016

Arts and Craft....

We are joined at our breakfast in The Daily cafe by several tables of policemen, their belts heavy with all manner of gadgets; radios, truncheons, handcuffs, and of course, guns. Not what we're used to, but here, the norm.
We stroll along the waterfront to the beautifully manicured Museums Park, dotted with Palm tres and marble seating. The Perez Art Museum building itself is hung outside with exotic creepers. Inside are contemporary art exhibitions - not all to our taste or comprehension (one was an aviary of 4 live parrots!?), but some ceramics and giant colourful gauches of ladies were stunning.





Another wander along the waters edge where dolphins are milling around near the shore, and in the distance a red cruise ship backs slowly into dock. Alongside the park is moored the gleaming 87m long Motor Yacht "Fountainhead", the size of a small hotel. With a web search we find the amazing coincidence that it is owned by Mark Cuban. We hadn't heard of him until last week, when we became hooked on the brilliant TV programme "Shark Tank". This is the US equivalent of "The Dragons Den", but sooo much better. We are watching 3 episodes a night! Mark is a very successful genius entrepreneur on the panel, and the current owner of the Dallas Basketball
Team.



Location:Miami

Thursday 7 January 2016

Swanky houses & cigars...

No wind and clear blue skies are the perfect conditions to cycle south to Key Biscayne. We take a cycle path beneath the elevated railway, then cross steep Rickenbacker Causeway. A detour winds through pristine neighbourhoods, where homes front the water with some of the priciest addresses in the USA. The houses are individually designed from gaudy copies of Venetian palaces to modern glass boxes. One has its own waterfall pouring down the front elevation. At the end of Key Biscayne is Bill Baggs State park. A dedicated cycle path follows the waters edge, and through lush vegetation of palms and mangroves, to the lighthouse at the point.


We know this time not to stop here for a picnic as chubby racoons pester anyone pausing for a snack. Over the ocean squadrons of brown or white pelicans stream past. The occasional sea plane or helicopter buzzes overhead.
On the return pedal we detour west in the city suburbs to visit " Little Havanna" where folks of more modest income live in old style bungalows and narrow shops sell cigars to tourists - the whole area has that Cuban feeling.






Location:Key Biscayne & Little Havanna

Freedom...

The Freedom Tower in Downtown Miami stands out as one of the few historic buildings.


Originally built in the 1920s for a media baron, it eventually became the Miami equivalent of Ellis Island. It was here, in the early 1960s, that 14,000 unaccompanied children from Cuba were processed as emigrants escaping communism. Their parents did not want them raised as communists following Castro's coup, so sent them to the US, hoping they too could join them later. For some, this happened, but alas, not for all. Their poignant stories are recalled in the museum here, some eventually reunited with families, others never to see their parents again. The building also houses a small gallery, with a few Salvador Dalis, and an iconic Marilyn Monroe screen print by Andy Warhol.



Location:Downtown Miami