For anyone wishing to view more photos from the 2014 tour, a selection can be found at this link:-
http://1drv.ms/VPNw0c
Thursday 10 July 2014
Monday 7 July 2014
Finals day...
We leave the camping gear at mum's to make the last leg of the trip a bit easier. An early start, just in case it rains later, sees us up the top of our first steep hill at Hardy's monument at 7.30.
Mike is following a "Bike Hub" quiet route that is mainly Sustrans Route 2. Then we skirt north of Bridport, and into Axminster as we are peckish, stopping at Tesco's garage for a takeaway coffee and buns. A flat bit is followed by a horrible hill that goes on and on, on the east side of Raymond's Hill. This would normally be a quiet farm lane, but a moto-cross event is being held in a field we pass so we meet lots of cars. Now we begin to recognise place names and a sign tells us we are approaching Ottery St Mary. This time it is Sainbury's to the rescue for a comfort break, shelter from a really heavy shower and a chance to buy our supplies for the evening. The so familiar route from here takes us to Tipton St John, over Metcombe Hill, and past Sandy Lane. Tour de France fever has gripped local cyclists, as a little girl on a "tag-a-long" bike shouts "Allez, Allez," to us, and an elderly couple leap off the path cheering us on like a Peleton. Home by 4.00, 67 quiet but hilly miles. Time to catch up with the men's singles final at Wimbledon, as we unpack.
Total tour miles:- 2970
Mike is following a "Bike Hub" quiet route that is mainly Sustrans Route 2. Then we skirt north of Bridport, and into Axminster as we are peckish, stopping at Tesco's garage for a takeaway coffee and buns. A flat bit is followed by a horrible hill that goes on and on, on the east side of Raymond's Hill. This would normally be a quiet farm lane, but a moto-cross event is being held in a field we pass so we meet lots of cars. Now we begin to recognise place names and a sign tells us we are approaching Ottery St Mary. This time it is Sainbury's to the rescue for a comfort break, shelter from a really heavy shower and a chance to buy our supplies for the evening. The so familiar route from here takes us to Tipton St John, over Metcombe Hill, and past Sandy Lane. Tour de France fever has gripped local cyclists, as a little girl on a "tag-a-long" bike shouts "Allez, Allez," to us, and an elderly couple leap off the path cheering us on like a Peleton. Home by 4.00, 67 quiet but hilly miles. Time to catch up with the men's singles final at Wimbledon, as we unpack.
Total tour miles:- 2970
Location:Dorchester to Exeter
Saturday 5 July 2014
Nearly home...
Our last day in Guernsey and sunny again. We check out of the hotel and explore the north of the island. By farm houses there are lots of large derelict glasshouses, which used to grow tomatoes but are abandoned as no longer viable. One or two propagate flowers. There are many tiny little inlets on the north peninsula, most incredibly pretty and undeveloped, but one is the island land fill site! I supposed they have to put the rubbish somewhere. Further on, a disused quarry has the shore side blasted out to form a small marina. As we head clockwise down the east side there is an off-road cycle option beside little moored tenders bobbing on the outgoing tide, then a cycle path into busy St Peter Port. More big marinas stuffed full of yachts and motor boats - if they are not out in this beautiful sunshine, when are they? We take the opportunity to find the oldest Postbox still in daily use in the British Isles.
We queue up for the 16.45 ferry to Weymouth. Just as we leave the shore a few spots of rain fall. At Weymouth the mist is so thick at 20.05 that Portland Bill is barely visible as the boat glides into dock. We are first off and soon pick up the dedicated cycle path by Radipole Lake. We are in Dorchester by 21.00, a bit damp from drizzle. Next morning we visit my mum in a nursing home in Weymouth and my sister nearby. We manage to pick up a lifetime Bird "Tick"as we have good view of a Bearded Tit (Reedling) near the bird observatory on Radipole Lake!
This takes our total bird count this trip to 102.
Miles to date:- 2903
We queue up for the 16.45 ferry to Weymouth. Just as we leave the shore a few spots of rain fall. At Weymouth the mist is so thick at 20.05 that Portland Bill is barely visible as the boat glides into dock. We are first off and soon pick up the dedicated cycle path by Radipole Lake. We are in Dorchester by 21.00, a bit damp from drizzle. Next morning we visit my mum in a nursing home in Weymouth and my sister nearby. We manage to pick up a lifetime Bird "Tick"as we have good view of a Bearded Tit (Reedling) near the bird observatory on Radipole Lake!
This takes our total bird count this trip to 102.
Miles to date:- 2903
Location:Guernsey to Dorchester
Thursday 3 July 2014
"Rest" day...
We have a handy French booklet of cycle routes around this island. The first one takes us near our hotel through the lanes past impossibly pretty cottages and farms of Guernsey cows. Then a tougher route up and down into two valleys and a bit of an off road section through woods. Along the coast road, stunning views, with a low tide, of little rocky islands, a lighthouse and old stone towers. The latter were restored by the occupying Germans as lookout posts.
St Matthews Church, on a hill, has the grave of cyclist John le Tocq. He was a champion cyclist who was killed in an accident when training for the island championship at the end of the 19th C.
Out onto the most south westerly peninsula cars are banned, so a quiet pedal past old German gun emplacements overlooking rocky bays under turquoise seas. Oystercatchers "beep beep" as they fly past. The island works to the rhythm of the tide as the ferry comes in with the tide, and cars beetle back and forth to collect passengers, then there is quiet again.
Every time we stop to look at the route an islander will stop and ask if we want help - very kind. We manage to find more than 30 miles of lanes, all of it without any potholes, then back for an evening in the hotel watching exciting mixed-doubles tennis from Wimbledon.
Miles to date:- 2855
St Matthews Church, on a hill, has the grave of cyclist John le Tocq. He was a champion cyclist who was killed in an accident when training for the island championship at the end of the 19th C.
Out onto the most south westerly peninsula cars are banned, so a quiet pedal past old German gun emplacements overlooking rocky bays under turquoise seas. Oystercatchers "beep beep" as they fly past. The island works to the rhythm of the tide as the ferry comes in with the tide, and cars beetle back and forth to collect passengers, then there is quiet again.
Every time we stop to look at the route an islander will stop and ask if we want help - very kind. We manage to find more than 30 miles of lanes, all of it without any potholes, then back for an evening in the hotel watching exciting mixed-doubles tennis from Wimbledon.
Miles to date:- 2855
Location:Guernsey
Island hopping...
An early start so we meet deer and rabbits crossing the farm roads. The Baie cycle route is right beside the shore, often on dykes so for the first 15 miles there are views of Mont St Michel on our right, then on an empty, dedicated cycle route.
Finally into St Malo, with its enormous marina, alongside the city walls to the Ferry port. As usual we have not booked tickets, but the Condor ladies are very helpful, booking us onto the fast afternoon ferry to Jersey, and then onto Guernsey. Mike has never been to the Channel Islands so we are taking advantage of the sunny forecast to spend a couple of days here on the way to Weymouth. We each manage a large helping of Moules Frites whilst waiting for the ferry boarding time.
We have to change boats in Jersey. Our captain comes on the tannoy to apologise for a delayed docking. The weather is very high pressure and it is such a low tide that there is less water that they had hoped for. We wait awhile for the sea level to rise. There is then a bit of a dash as those of us carrying on to Guernsey have to queue to clear Customs, but they hold the onward boat and we soon are enjoying views of the coast and in 1 hour are docking in the very pretty harbour of St Peter Port. The first roundabout confuses us - it feels very strange to be back on the UK side of the road. A 4 mile cycle north across the island to Hotel Hougue de Pommier set in acres of gardens a stones throw from the coast.
Miles to date:- 2822
Finally into St Malo, with its enormous marina, alongside the city walls to the Ferry port. As usual we have not booked tickets, but the Condor ladies are very helpful, booking us onto the fast afternoon ferry to Jersey, and then onto Guernsey. Mike has never been to the Channel Islands so we are taking advantage of the sunny forecast to spend a couple of days here on the way to Weymouth. We each manage a large helping of Moules Frites whilst waiting for the ferry boarding time.
We have to change boats in Jersey. Our captain comes on the tannoy to apologise for a delayed docking. The weather is very high pressure and it is such a low tide that there is less water that they had hoped for. We wait awhile for the sea level to rise. There is then a bit of a dash as those of us carrying on to Guernsey have to queue to clear Customs, but they hold the onward boat and we soon are enjoying views of the coast and in 1 hour are docking in the very pretty harbour of St Peter Port. The first roundabout confuses us - it feels very strange to be back on the UK side of the road. A 4 mile cycle north across the island to Hotel Hougue de Pommier set in acres of gardens a stones throw from the coast.
Miles to date:- 2822
Location:Avranches to Guernsey
Tuesday 1 July 2014
Horses for courses...
We are staying in the village of Saint Laurent de Condel with Bruno and Francoise, who we stayed with as one of our first Warm Showers stop overs in 2011. It is so nice to meet them again and catch up with family news. Bruno is now enjoying retirement and is spending more time looking after their beautiful garden. The climbing roses are heavy with scarlet blooms and the jasmine sweetly scents the table on the patio. They enjoy their trekking holidays, recently returning from the mountains of Corsica.The evening meal starter is very tasty boar sausage, brought back from there. Their village is twinned with Dunsford, near Exeter, so Francoise has visited with school parties many times.
Next day we cycle through "Swiss Normandy'" as the sign describes it. Though actually it is more like Devon, with very hilly farm lanes up and down through some lovely old woods. The sparse traffic is mainly tractors, but also a horse and trap with a red setter enjoying a ride on the back step. The big white horse doesn't mind us at all. The first tourers we have seen since the Loire are resting from the gradient at the side of the road. They are a German couple 1 week into a circumnavigation of France, heading eventually to Corsica. Lunch is a Menu du Jour in a tiny restaurant in Vire, filled with workers, which we only spot because of their vans parked outside on the pavement. We are fairly sure the steak is horse.
We are the first Warm Shower guests our host Martine has welcomed in Avaranches. She has to go out for the evening, but very kindly arranges for her son to make us comfortable in our own self contained flat on the ground floor of her house. The late evening temperature is comfortably warm after a rather stifling afternoon cycle, so we enjoy a stroll in the historic centre and up onto the castle ramparts for a panoramic view west across north Brittany with the iconic profile of Mont St Michel outlined against the evening sky.
We hope to pass near it tomorrow. On wifi we look at options for the return trip to England from St Malo. Our adventure is drawing to a close!
Miles to date:- 2765
Next day we cycle through "Swiss Normandy'" as the sign describes it. Though actually it is more like Devon, with very hilly farm lanes up and down through some lovely old woods. The sparse traffic is mainly tractors, but also a horse and trap with a red setter enjoying a ride on the back step. The big white horse doesn't mind us at all. The first tourers we have seen since the Loire are resting from the gradient at the side of the road. They are a German couple 1 week into a circumnavigation of France, heading eventually to Corsica. Lunch is a Menu du Jour in a tiny restaurant in Vire, filled with workers, which we only spot because of their vans parked outside on the pavement. We are fairly sure the steak is horse.
We are the first Warm Shower guests our host Martine has welcomed in Avaranches. She has to go out for the evening, but very kindly arranges for her son to make us comfortable in our own self contained flat on the ground floor of her house. The late evening temperature is comfortably warm after a rather stifling afternoon cycle, so we enjoy a stroll in the historic centre and up onto the castle ramparts for a panoramic view west across north Brittany with the iconic profile of Mont St Michel outlined against the evening sky.
We hope to pass near it tomorrow. On wifi we look at options for the return trip to England from St Malo. Our adventure is drawing to a close!
Miles to date:- 2765
Location:Saint Laurent de Condel to Avranches
Monday 30 June 2014
D-Day...
Our WS hosts fill jars with redcurrant jam, and then Gilles makes a Far Cake, a creamy conception, a speciality of Brittany. Helene has 2 more years to work as a social worker, but Gilles has already retired, and as a former motor bike mechanic he now fills his time restoring old classic British bikes. Gilles's father was 18 at the time of the D-Day landings, living only 4 kms from Omaha beach. His family home was destroyed, apart from the basement, in which they then had to continue living. My own father (25 yrs old), I believe, made it ashore near Bayeaux that day. The town of Lisieux was mainly destroyed in the ensuing battle.
They are a lovely couple so it is difficult to drag ourselves away from their company after breakfast on Tuesday. Mike had planned another brilliant route through quite farm lanes and beautiful Normandy farms. We stop to take a photo of one, and a pony and trap pass by. The horse is startled by passing traffic, but the driver gets it under control and we let it get out of sight before we continue.
The delicate linseed oil crop has been flattened by the recent rain, but the cereals are upright, golden in the sun and almost ready to harvest. A Canadian Second World War cemetery, as beautifully maintained as always, is on the outskirts of the village of Brettville sur Laize.
The avenue leading to it is not named after some bigwig general, but Gerard, a Canadian boy who volunteered at the age of 15 and died here 70 years ago, aged 16.
Miles to date:- 2702
They are a lovely couple so it is difficult to drag ourselves away from their company after breakfast on Tuesday. Mike had planned another brilliant route through quite farm lanes and beautiful Normandy farms. We stop to take a photo of one, and a pony and trap pass by. The horse is startled by passing traffic, but the driver gets it under control and we let it get out of sight before we continue.
The delicate linseed oil crop has been flattened by the recent rain, but the cereals are upright, golden in the sun and almost ready to harvest. A Canadian Second World War cemetery, as beautifully maintained as always, is on the outskirts of the village of Brettville sur Laize.
The avenue leading to it is not named after some bigwig general, but Gerard, a Canadian boy who volunteered at the age of 15 and died here 70 years ago, aged 16.
Miles to date:- 2702
Location:Lisieux to St Lauren de Condel
Sunday 29 June 2014
Busy bees...
We pass the showery evening watching the televised match between Chile and Brazil. Rather a lot of fouls and diving, but exciting until the end and Brazil winning the penalty shoot out. Still showery in the morning but we aren't complaining as the news tells us that there are storms and hailstones in the south east part of France! A quiet Sunday cycle heading west for the first time since the Douro, so on main roads as no cars, then after lunch as clear blue skies reappear we follow tiny farm roads through typical Normandy countryside, cereal crops and apple trees, dotted with neat timber framed houses, barns and even a church. The traditional building method carried on with new houses of similar construction. Some thatch too, where the ridge is planted with flowers!
Our Warm Shower hosts at Lisieux have a big "English cottage" garden where they keep 10 bee hives for their own honey.
They are making lots of blackcurrent jam from their own fruit trees. Our friends in Paris had a problem in their flat with bees living in the chimney flue, with them appearing on the living room occasionally, so we are used to them.
Miles to date:- 2661
Our Warm Shower hosts at Lisieux have a big "English cottage" garden where they keep 10 bee hives for their own honey.
They are making lots of blackcurrent jam from their own fruit trees. Our friends in Paris had a problem in their flat with bees living in the chimney flue, with them appearing on the living room occasionally, so we are used to them.
Miles to date:- 2661
Location:Louviers to Lisieux
Saturday 28 June 2014
Monet makes the world go round...
Only a short cycle planned today as we are visiting Giverny. The village is a long ribbon of cottages, set along a contour just above the flood plain of the River Epte. It turns out to be a perfect place to visit on a bike as there is a very strict speed limit on the road passing Monet's famous garden, and visitor's cars are completely banned from the entire length of the village. The famous lily pond, formed in the river, is on the far side of the road from the village, opposite Monet's charming, typically French, shuttered house, in a garden of rambling roses.
The whole village has been preserved by money from the Monet Trust, and it is very pretty, with rose gardens, cottages and boutique hotels.
From here a dedicated cycle path by-passes the traffic for miles, then, just after lunch and back alongside the Seine, the promised showers arrive. Our first rain since Portugal! We shelter under an enormous tree, with a wide view of fields, then make our way to Louviers, where, as we are so used to dry weather, we wimp out and stay in a central hotel instead of using their campsite. When the rain eases in the late afternoon we walk across to the Cathedral just in time to watch a beautiful bride and her new husband emerge, bells peeling. It starts to rain but there is plenty of room for them under the enormous portico. The wedding party cars drive around the main roundabout several times, honking horns. We are in the wedding mood as we had viewed the wedding album at Nichola and Paul's, of their twin son Jonathan who had a beautiful wedding last year, (and Nichola is to become a Granny in November!)
Miles to date:- 2605
The whole village has been preserved by money from the Monet Trust, and it is very pretty, with rose gardens, cottages and boutique hotels.
From here a dedicated cycle path by-passes the traffic for miles, then, just after lunch and back alongside the Seine, the promised showers arrive. Our first rain since Portugal! We shelter under an enormous tree, with a wide view of fields, then make our way to Louviers, where, as we are so used to dry weather, we wimp out and stay in a central hotel instead of using their campsite. When the rain eases in the late afternoon we walk across to the Cathedral just in time to watch a beautiful bride and her new husband emerge, bells peeling. It starts to rain but there is plenty of room for them under the enormous portico. The wedding party cars drive around the main roundabout several times, honking horns. We are in the wedding mood as we had viewed the wedding album at Nichola and Paul's, of their twin son Jonathan who had a beautiful wedding last year, (and Nichola is to become a Granny in November!)
Miles to date:- 2605
Location:Near Giverny to Louvriers
Friday 27 June 2014
Le Moulin...
We leave Paris, northwest over the Seine, passing concierges chatting outside their blocks of Art Deco apartments, up to the Trocadero roundabout where a dedicated cycle path takes us out through a large park. Commuters pass us, one on a Segway, others on little scooters, and stylish ladies cycling in high heels. A postman on a heavy yellow bike joins us. The Seine loops a lot in the wide valley, so we cross it at least 6 times today. St Germains is smart stone-built suburb with a very long high street of trendy shops, culminating in a square hosting lots of market stalls. Later we have to share a busy road with homeward bound commuters alongside the river until we turn off into tidy little villages. We pause at a Bed and Breakfast sign and ring the tel number. The chap answering says he is full, but that a lady nearby in the village has a room. We ring her, and she offers to come and guide us to her house, so we wait for her to arrive in her little blue car and follow half a mile into the most fabulous gardens of "Le Moulin". Elderly madam lives in the main house, but gives us the adjoining mill for the night.
In the ground floor living room a glass wall shows off the water mill whooshing around. It supplies all the electricity for the house.
On our first floor is an enormous bedroom and bathroom. We wander the gardens taking photos of the ivy covered stone walls, the water wheel and the river and then enjoy a beer at a table on the lawn. A green woodpecker laughs as it flies from an oak. What a place to find! We are very lucky.
Miles to date:- 2575
In the ground floor living room a glass wall shows off the water mill whooshing around. It supplies all the electricity for the house.
On our first floor is an enormous bedroom and bathroom. We wander the gardens taking photos of the ivy covered stone walls, the water wheel and the river and then enjoy a beer at a table on the lawn. A green woodpecker laughs as it flies from an oak. What a place to find! We are very lucky.
Miles to date:- 2575
Location:Paris to near Giverny
Thursday 26 June 2014
Getting an Eiffel...
Breakfast croissants from one of the many local little boulangeries, followed by a stroll through street markets to the Eiffel Tower. Lots of visitors, parties of French school kids and bus tours of Asian visitors. A mini Eiffel Tower about 20 ft high constructed of red metal chairs, makes an interesting photo in front of the main thing.
A posse of cycling police chase after illegal street vendors who disperse rapidly, running off, dodging the traffic. A jolly evening birthday celebration meal in a restaurant near N and P's place.
The dining areas are set around an atrium on three floors with the central roof open to the sky, as it is a warm clear evening. After, we dash across to the Eiffel Tower to just catch the 11.00 illuminations.
Next morning we follow a walk around the neighbouring 14th Arrondisement, passing ubiquitous 19th century ornate green water fountains, the boulangerie that came second in the best baguette in Paris competion, and down a side street a 19thC church dedicated to workers and constructed on a steel frame. A bit like a small railway station, there are murals to Carpenters, painters and steel workers, but no quarry men! The cemetery at Montparnasse is a shady quiet haven, with tombstones marking graves of Samuel Beckett, Sartre, various generals, and lots of other famous French.
Finally The Palais de Luxembourg set in gardens busy with joggers and pétanque players. On the way back to the apartment we inspect the stands of hire bikes and note that quite a lot are in need of repairs. There are also ranks of little electric cars plugged in, waiting to be hired. Water is discharged down the gutters each morning to clean them.
A posse of cycling police chase after illegal street vendors who disperse rapidly, running off, dodging the traffic. A jolly evening birthday celebration meal in a restaurant near N and P's place.
The dining areas are set around an atrium on three floors with the central roof open to the sky, as it is a warm clear evening. After, we dash across to the Eiffel Tower to just catch the 11.00 illuminations.
Next morning we follow a walk around the neighbouring 14th Arrondisement, passing ubiquitous 19th century ornate green water fountains, the boulangerie that came second in the best baguette in Paris competion, and down a side street a 19thC church dedicated to workers and constructed on a steel frame. A bit like a small railway station, there are murals to Carpenters, painters and steel workers, but no quarry men! The cemetery at Montparnasse is a shady quiet haven, with tombstones marking graves of Samuel Beckett, Sartre, various generals, and lots of other famous French.
Finally The Palais de Luxembourg set in gardens busy with joggers and pétanque players. On the way back to the apartment we inspect the stands of hire bikes and note that quite a lot are in need of repairs. There are also ranks of little electric cars plugged in, waiting to be hired. Water is discharged down the gutters each morning to clean them.
Location:Paris
Tuesday 24 June 2014
À Paris...
We exit the camp straight onto a car-free cycle route through more woods. The trees are well spaced, letting sunlight through. Then a bit of scary peddling on a fast road before a new cycle path rescues us and brings us to the ornamental lake beside Versailles Palace. What a great place for a picnic, and we have the view to ourselves.
We then venture around to the front of the palace, where the gold leaf is glinting in the sun, but there are big crowds of tourists, so we pedal off towards the Seine. Lots of roadworks make it an uncomfortable ride along the river, so we go along parallel quiet back roads, heading vaguely towards the Eiffel Tower, always visible on the skyline, arriving early afternoon at Paul and Nichola's apartment, on Place du Commerce about 1/2 mile south west of the Eiffel Tower.
Miles to date:- 2521
We then venture around to the front of the palace, where the gold leaf is glinting in the sun, but there are big crowds of tourists, so we pedal off towards the Seine. Lots of roadworks make it an uncomfortable ride along the river, so we go along parallel quiet back roads, heading vaguely towards the Eiffel Tower, always visible on the skyline, arriving early afternoon at Paul and Nichola's apartment, on Place du Commerce about 1/2 mile south west of the Eiffel Tower.
Miles to date:- 2521
Location:Rambouillet to Paris
Chartres Cathedral...
We enjoy an evening stroll around Beaugency on the shortest night of the year, visiting each of the music venues, a Jazz Band outside a restaurant, a Swing singer in the market place, disco on the main square and Susan's choir in front of the post office, (which has the biggest audience). We also discovered Rue de Rû, a pretty street with a flower-edged river down the middle. A whole roast pig is soon demolished by families seated at long trestle tables. We bump into a French couple on a tandem, who we had camped next to at Amboise!
Next morning is a Sunday quiet cycle on farm roads through an undulating plain of cereal crops. Our WS hosts are in the small village of Amilly. After dinner, Florence so kindly drives us to Chartres to see the floodlighting of the city, not just the Cathedral, but other principal buildings, including the old Post office, theatre and several ancient bridges have moving film or pictures illuminating them. We are so impressed, having never seen anything like it and would't have known about it without Florence. Next morning , after waving goodbye to F, P and their 4 small boys (and the puppy), the pedal is virtually flat on a quiet route route into the middle of Chartres that Patrice helped us plan. We loved Chartres and its Cathedral, visiting it before tourist parties arrived.
The stained glass is amazingly detailed and colourful. Apparently it was removed and stored safety during WW2 to preserve it.
Then we pedal through very narrow old streets that are mostly car free, over the many little old stone bridges and out onto the countryside on a river route to Rambouillet. The campsite here is in a massive old wood. A walk in the evening takes us around a small lake.
Miles to date:- 2483
Next morning is a Sunday quiet cycle on farm roads through an undulating plain of cereal crops. Our WS hosts are in the small village of Amilly. After dinner, Florence so kindly drives us to Chartres to see the floodlighting of the city, not just the Cathedral, but other principal buildings, including the old Post office, theatre and several ancient bridges have moving film or pictures illuminating them. We are so impressed, having never seen anything like it and would't have known about it without Florence. Next morning , after waving goodbye to F, P and their 4 small boys (and the puppy), the pedal is virtually flat on a quiet route route into the middle of Chartres that Patrice helped us plan. We loved Chartres and its Cathedral, visiting it before tourist parties arrived.
The stained glass is amazingly detailed and colourful. Apparently it was removed and stored safety during WW2 to preserve it.
Then we pedal through very narrow old streets that are mostly car free, over the many little old stone bridges and out onto the countryside on a river route to Rambouillet. The campsite here is in a massive old wood. A walk in the evening takes us around a small lake.
Miles to date:- 2483
Location:Beaugency to Rambouillet
Saturday 21 June 2014
All sorts of bikes...
The Loire cycle route east now is right beside the river, with views, as it is either on top of the dyke or on the river side of it. Mostly cycle-only, it is very relaxing not to think about traffic and we meet lots of other tourers, quite a few tandems, some trailers and we are a bit indignant to be overtaken by several electric bikes! For variety we take an off road option along some sections which is even nearer the river and a firm surface. At the town of Blois we do not cross the bridge to the town, and so avoid mingling with the cars, but still enjoy great views of all of the main sights, cathedral, chateau and lots of the traditional wooden, sailing fishing boats moored alongside or sweeping past with the flow. Our destination is Beaugency for a Warm Shower stay with English Susan. What a beautiful town she lives in - we would have cycled past and missed a gem, if not visiting her. Lots of little squares, a wedding emerging from the ornate town hall, a covered market and a Saturday street market. Susan lives in a lovely house and big garden that she has recently completely renovated. We are camping on the lawn.
It is a music festival this evening in town, with 10 bands, and Susan starring on drums and in the choir! She is also a complete bike enthusiast, with day, road, mountain, tourer and tandem.
Miles to date:- 2374
It is a music festival this evening in town, with 10 bands, and Susan starring on drums and in the choir! She is also a complete bike enthusiast, with day, road, mountain, tourer and tandem.
Miles to date:- 2374
Location:Amboise to Beaugency
Cavemen...
On our day off in Amboise we pedal without the bags on a circular route of 30 miles to the west, taking in a couple of minor Chateaux and lots of vineyards. It is not easy to see the Loire as it is behind dykes and walls to resist flooding, but we get views as we cross it and climb onto the high banks. It is very wide but the water level is low, with sandbanks exposed. One village, Chancay, backs onto a limestone cliff so every house has a cave as a garage store or rooms. Back in Amboise, for a stroll around the sights in the afternoon, we discover back streets the same here, and also whole small cave houses still occupied.
The other sights of Amboise include the best Chateau yet, which grandly dominates the river, and the final home of Leonardi da Vinci, Clos Luce. This is an enormous stone manor house set in grand gardens. He spent the last 3 years of his life here. Back at camp some of our fellow cyclists have pedalled on and been replaced by two sets of English couples on tandems (one a Thorn), three young French ladies in one tent, and a French retired couple (with a tent each!)
Miles to date:- 2324
The other sights of Amboise include the best Chateau yet, which grandly dominates the river, and the final home of Leonardi da Vinci, Clos Luce. This is an enormous stone manor house set in grand gardens. He spent the last 3 years of his life here. Back at camp some of our fellow cyclists have pedalled on and been replaced by two sets of English couples on tandems (one a Thorn), three young French ladies in one tent, and a French retired couple (with a tent each!)
Miles to date:- 2324
Location:Amboise and the Loire
Thursday 19 June 2014
Other travellers...
We eventually drag ourselves away from the comforts of the country house hotel, ambling along empty farm lanes that mostly go right through farmyards. A chance to mingle with hens, friendly dogs (collies and Pyrenean mountain doggies) and "Bonjour" farmers, now knee deep in the sunflower crop.
Again I have highlighted a little town on the map for an unknown reason, so we find ourselves in Loches. Every town now has a either castle, Chateau, Cathedral or monastery.
Loches has all, impossibly pretty limestone houses, and a town wall with gates. There are consequently some tourists, but not overwhelming. From here there is marked a cycle route to the Loire, mostly along side a busy road. We notice lots of fresh horse manure on the road (either one horse with an upset tummy or a lot of horses!) It turns out to be Gypsies with traditional horse drawn caravans, camped across the cycle path and taking their beautiful brown horses to the local village pond for water. One family of gypsies are also enjoying swimming, washing and fishing in the pond.
After 66 miles, ending in a lovely shady road through woods, we are at the gorgeous historic town of Amboise on the Loire. Standing looking a little lost, a New Zealand tourist comes up and gives us her town map! We find we are right beside the bridge we need to an island in the river where our campsite is located. It is beautiful, river and trees all around, plenty of grassy plots and fellow touring cyclists to chat to, mostly ladies! Two lady couples (one young pair English as we spot from their Waitrose bag), and a single lady with one lone chap with a trailer. As we cook our evening meal a whooshing noise attracts everyone's attention. Then 4 enormous, colourful hot-air balloons fill up behind some trees, and set of in the sunset down the river!
Miles to date:- 2294
Again I have highlighted a little town on the map for an unknown reason, so we find ourselves in Loches. Every town now has a either castle, Chateau, Cathedral or monastery.
Loches has all, impossibly pretty limestone houses, and a town wall with gates. There are consequently some tourists, but not overwhelming. From here there is marked a cycle route to the Loire, mostly along side a busy road. We notice lots of fresh horse manure on the road (either one horse with an upset tummy or a lot of horses!) It turns out to be Gypsies with traditional horse drawn caravans, camped across the cycle path and taking their beautiful brown horses to the local village pond for water. One family of gypsies are also enjoying swimming, washing and fishing in the pond.
After 66 miles, ending in a lovely shady road through woods, we are at the gorgeous historic town of Amboise on the Loire. Standing looking a little lost, a New Zealand tourist comes up and gives us her town map! We find we are right beside the bridge we need to an island in the river where our campsite is located. It is beautiful, river and trees all around, plenty of grassy plots and fellow touring cyclists to chat to, mostly ladies! Two lady couples (one young pair English as we spot from their Waitrose bag), and a single lady with one lone chap with a trailer. As we cook our evening meal a whooshing noise attracts everyone's attention. Then 4 enormous, colourful hot-air balloons fill up behind some trees, and set of in the sunset down the river!
Miles to date:- 2294
Location:Availles-le-Chatellerault to Amboise
Wednesday 18 June 2014
Anniversaire...
An undulating pedal next day takes us to a town I had highlighted on the map but could not remember why! In fact on my map it is called St Savin and on the GPS St Germain, so we are intrigued. It turns out to be a small town split by the river.
It is supremely pretty with an ancient stone bridge and an enormous monastery with old towers, carvings and all sorts of interesting detail.
Now we are on a very straight but quiet road ( well apart from the occasional logging lorry and milk tanker). We are heading for a little village where Mike has played a blinder booking us into a fabulous country house hotel. As it is our wedding anniversary he felt I would not be impressed at spending the evening in a small tent. The hotel is perfect, set in gorgeous walled gardens with views for miles over unspoilt countryside, and it was once the home of Descartes!
Being cyclists we obviously took advantage of the lovely bathroom to do lots of washing before an afternoon stroll through the gardens and back in time for a dinner majoring on pungent lamb, local cheeses and tarts washed down by Cahors wine. Bliss.
Miles to date:- 2228
It is supremely pretty with an ancient stone bridge and an enormous monastery with old towers, carvings and all sorts of interesting detail.
Now we are on a very straight but quiet road ( well apart from the occasional logging lorry and milk tanker). We are heading for a little village where Mike has played a blinder booking us into a fabulous country house hotel. As it is our wedding anniversary he felt I would not be impressed at spending the evening in a small tent. The hotel is perfect, set in gorgeous walled gardens with views for miles over unspoilt countryside, and it was once the home of Descartes!
Being cyclists we obviously took advantage of the lovely bathroom to do lots of washing before an afternoon stroll through the gardens and back in time for a dinner majoring on pungent lamb, local cheeses and tarts washed down by Cahors wine. Bliss.
Miles to date:- 2228
Location:Bellac to Availles- le- chatellereut
Memorial village...
An evening stroll in the countryside around the farm campsite is along a small ridge road with views of the extensive deciduous woods, interspersed with small farms. Honey coloured brown cows look very content in their meadows. A hedgehog takes a stroll across the tarmac. We notice English names on a letterbox at a drive to a converted barn. Next morning camping means we can get a very early start so we are up and down the hills whilst deer are still feeding in the fields, and a red squirrel scampers up a tree. Our aim today is to visit the memorial village of Oradour-sur-Glane. This is the famous village that the retreating German army slaughtered on 10th June 1944. We approach from a quiet back road and come upon the village houses and church, with a very simple wooden cross. Only six out of a population of 600 escaped, with most locked in the church that was incinerated.
All that remains are the stone walls of building with roofs razed. It has all been preserved just as it was found and the replacement village constructed separately across the road. At the main entrance many coaches of sightseers are parked so we are glad that by bike we could see the scene more peacefully off the main road.
We stop this evening at the municipal campsite in the town of Bellac. Perfectly good with trees , lots of grass and space, but opposite the abattoir! Our worst fears do not materialise, as there is no noise or pong from here, in fact there are pink climbing roses around the entrance as there are everywhere around here.
Miles to date :- 2169
All that remains are the stone walls of building with roofs razed. It has all been preserved just as it was found and the replacement village constructed separately across the road. At the main entrance many coaches of sightseers are parked so we are glad that by bike we could see the scene more peacefully off the main road.
We stop this evening at the municipal campsite in the town of Bellac. Perfectly good with trees , lots of grass and space, but opposite the abattoir! Our worst fears do not materialise, as there is no noise or pong from here, in fact there are pink climbing roses around the entrance as there are everywhere around here.
Miles to date :- 2169
Location:St Yrieix-la-Perche to Bellac
Monday 16 June 2014
Plums and chateaux...
After breakfast (including tasty home made jams of fig and strawberry) Benoit leads us safely through the rush hour traffic on his way to work. The first village we take a detour through is Varetz, where every building is made of a local stone of a very attractive red colour.
All the village churches now have very pointy slate roofs like witches hats. Arnac-Pompadour has the most magnificent chateau, with great curved walls next to the entrance arch. Opposite is an equally fine equestrian centre from which a very smart lady on a very fine horse emerged and trotted past. We cannot resist the Plat de Jour at the Cafe alongside. Suitably nourished with local enormous sausages, we pass acres of plums, grown on big wooden trellises. Tractors are busy in the fields, turning the new-mown hay to dry in the sunshine.
Two minutes after we decide to look for a place to camp, we spot a sign for Les Vigeres campsite, 1/2 mile off our road. It is a former farm with lovely rural views, run by a British couple. It is still early afternoon so an opportunity to wash and dry our cycle gear, and get up to date on our blog!
Miles to date:- 2116
All the village churches now have very pointy slate roofs like witches hats. Arnac-Pompadour has the most magnificent chateau, with great curved walls next to the entrance arch. Opposite is an equally fine equestrian centre from which a very smart lady on a very fine horse emerged and trotted past. We cannot resist the Plat de Jour at the Cafe alongside. Suitably nourished with local enormous sausages, we pass acres of plums, grown on big wooden trellises. Tractors are busy in the fields, turning the new-mown hay to dry in the sunshine.
Two minutes after we decide to look for a place to camp, we spot a sign for Les Vigeres campsite, 1/2 mile off our road. It is a former farm with lovely rural views, run by a British couple. It is still early afternoon so an opportunity to wash and dry our cycle gear, and get up to date on our blog!
Miles to date:- 2116
Location:Brive to near St-Yrieix- la -Peche
Crossing the Dordogne...
After a very convivial evening, Bob and Mary next morning lead a lovely country route to a favourite spot of theirs, the charming little town of Domme, sitting on a hill top, houses all of matching honey coloured stone.
We then are on our way, over the Dordogne and on to the gorgeous ancient town of Sarlat, rather busy this Sunday morning with sightseers.The weather has now settled comfortably into the 20s with a light breeze. Our destination is Brive-la-Gaillarde, a very big town, so we are so glad to be navigating our way through on a Sunday. Our WS hosts live in the older area, their large, 3 storey house, typically French with its high ceilings and shuttered windows, set in a big garden with room for their fruit trees and veggie patch as well as shady patio and bike store. There is even a wine cellar. Next door is an enormous handsome church, the bells peeling for evening mass when we arrive.
We are greeted by son Octave and daughter Matilde, with Mum Frederique (a surprising name to us for a lady) and Dad Benoit, soon returning from a bike ride. They are both great cooks so we enjoy a lovely evening meal outside. When first married they were living and working in Senegal a former French colony, so it was interesting to learn about their time there.
Miles to date:- 2069
We then are on our way, over the Dordogne and on to the gorgeous ancient town of Sarlat, rather busy this Sunday morning with sightseers.The weather has now settled comfortably into the 20s with a light breeze. Our destination is Brive-la-Gaillarde, a very big town, so we are so glad to be navigating our way through on a Sunday. Our WS hosts live in the older area, their large, 3 storey house, typically French with its high ceilings and shuttered windows, set in a big garden with room for their fruit trees and veggie patch as well as shady patio and bike store. There is even a wine cellar. Next door is an enormous handsome church, the bells peeling for evening mass when we arrive.
We are greeted by son Octave and daughter Matilde, with Mum Frederique (a surprising name to us for a lady) and Dad Benoit, soon returning from a bike ride. They are both great cooks so we enjoy a lovely evening meal outside. When first married they were living and working in Senegal a former French colony, so it was interesting to learn about their time there.
Miles to date:- 2069
Location:Salviac to Brive-la-Gaillarde
Sunday 15 June 2014
Markets...
Saturday morning we are able to visit old Cahors centre with little traffic, but the bustle of the street market and the covered market busy as well, too many local cheeses to count.
Mike navigates us a great route out, that provides a view point at the top, looking down on a big bend in the River Lot and the city.
Soon we are along narrow, car-less valley roads through meadows, heading north. The top temperature today is a more moderate 26 deg. Our next hosts are retired Americans, Mary and Bob, who live in a restored chapel, tucked down a little lane right in the centre of the village of Salviac, opposite the church, Mairie and the Boulangerie. Their garden is a very tranquil spot overlooking fields at the rear. Mary and Bob know the area very well, and are leading lights in the local touring club. They also have one of the few tandems in the region. They have cycled all over the world, including Thailand and Kerala in India.
Miles to date:- 2018
Mike navigates us a great route out, that provides a view point at the top, looking down on a big bend in the River Lot and the city.
Soon we are along narrow, car-less valley roads through meadows, heading north. The top temperature today is a more moderate 26 deg. Our next hosts are retired Americans, Mary and Bob, who live in a restored chapel, tucked down a little lane right in the centre of the village of Salviac, opposite the church, Mairie and the Boulangerie. Their garden is a very tranquil spot overlooking fields at the rear. Mary and Bob know the area very well, and are leading lights in the local touring club. They also have one of the few tandems in the region. They have cycled all over the world, including Thailand and Kerala in India.
Miles to date:- 2018
Location:Cahors to Salviac
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