Over the top.....!

There was ice on the tent in the morning. The sun came out & warmed things up as we cycled the last 7 miles to the summit of the pass, & then down hairpin bends through beautiful beech trees towards the border. At Arneguy we crossed the river, which is now the only indication of a border - other than the change of road signs (EU open frontiers!)

St Jean Pied de Port has a very pleasant setting on the river & some fine town walls, but was very touristy so we headed off on country roads. We cycled over 2 more cols over 500metres. We met a French couple on racing bikes who were very pleasant & passed on some useful local knowledge. Many trees are heavy with globes of mistletoe.

We reached the pretty campsite by the River Saison. Here we met the wonderful Henri in his caravan. He generously provided endless cafetierres of coffee, & his home-made chocolate mousse. A 4 star Hotel Concierge, married to an English lady, he spoke perfect english. It was difficult to drag ourselves away the next morning, but we eventually made good progress in the Tarbes direction. Houses here have steep slate roofs & great piles of logs. The skies threatened rain clouds off the Pyrenees at around 6.30pm. We were cycling up a steep hill as we passed a handsome house with a B&B sign. We booked into a lovely room & just avoided the heavy downpour. The owner spoke excellent english, as she had worked in England & Australia. The vast woods behind the house provided us with a beautiful evening walk once the rain had ceased.

Madam`s homemade bread, myrtille jam & gorgeous yoghurt for breakfast set us up well for our morning cycle into Pontacq. Being May 1st it was a holiday, so we cycled through 2 village fetes & a bike race. After a lovely sunny day, we camped on a little farm near the town of Montrejeau. We woke to braying donkeys & crowing cockerels. Now heading E. out of the Pyrenees into the Haute-Garonne region. We cross the swollen Garonne river at several places, & then pick up a green cycle route that takes through quaint villages. This is a cattle farming area, with 2 storey timber-framed barns attached to farmhouses (apparently called "Fermettes"). We camp on a tributary of the river, on a pretty site with lots of lilac trees, near Martres-Tolosane. Unfortunately along this riverbank & others today, we have spotted lots of the dreaded Japanese Knotweed (none seen in Spain - perhaps the Pyrenees has been a barrier to its spread?)

The next morning we were lucky to pick up other green cycle lanes as we crossed into the valleys SW. of Toulouse. Amazing to see Red Kites following the farmers harvester, mouse-hunting? We spend a morning sight-seeing in the attractive town of Cazeres. It is Saturday market, so nicely buzzing. We were so hungry after our Pyrennean travels that we consumed a whole cooked chicken & family portion of sauteed potatoes from the market! We end this evening cycling up a very steep drive to a wooded campsite just short of Pamiers. We sit on the verendah of a nearby empty chalet, using their table to study maps, & watch the sunset.

By lunchtime the next day, we have reached the Canal du Midi towpath at Bram, to cycle to Carcassonne. It is a bit bumpy in places (similar to the Kennet & Avon) but nice to be away from the cars. We meet 3 young touring cyclists (1 Brit, 2 French) who are heading to the Municipal Campsite. As they have directions, we are happy to follow them to this well-placed facility with a view of the Medieval Cité. There are 2 other pairs of touring cyclists on the site. We book in for 2 nights to sightsee Carcassonne (& do the blog!)

We have now pedalled 1,386 miles from Nerja with only 1 puncture! Next heading E. across southern France in the direction of Montpellier & Avignon. We have been in France for a full week, but are still saying "hola" & "gracias"!