Also there, a VC holder, a 21 year old Captain from Kent, killed by a sniper only days after almost singlehandedly taking out 2 German machine gun posts.
Then the unmistakable, enormous pale stone arch that is the Menin Gate, through the moat around Ypres, enscribed with thousands of names of fallen soldiers whose remains were never found. "They are not lost, they are here" declared General Fuller when he officially opened the Memorial. The 'Last Post' is played by a bugler here every evening at 8pm.
YPRES is a testimony to revival as the centre was rebuilt exactly as it had been, complete with the enormous cloth trading hall and cathedral.
There is a dedicated cycle path to PASSENDAELE following the train line that was a battle front heroically held by Australians, with remains of bunkers and a farm that somehow survived and still farms today.
Nearby is the enormous Tyn Cot Memorial to the commonwealth soldiers, on a hill with views over the wide battle area.
Warm Showers hosts are Flemish Caroline and David at POELKEPELLE. David has cycled in Canada and all the way down to S. America. Dinner was a delicious typical Flemish meal of ham and Chicory in a cheese sauce with mashed potato spiced with nutmeg.
After only 15 miles next morning we are back in France with our bikes once more referred to as Velos instead of Fiets. The minor roads we take undulate through cattle, potato and fruit farms. We camp at a very pretty farm at VERCHIN. Wandering around the village in the evening we discover the church has a tall twisted spire, as if it is growing towards the sun!
The weather has been fine for days now and is forecast to stay the same for the last few days of our trip. Next morning we start off road on farm tracks then quiet roads for 5pm to the village of AZINCOURT. We search out the famous battle site, now corn fields. A leaflet provided by the tourist office is completely devoid of facts, even omitting to mention that the French were defeated.
At the coast we skirt a large bird reserve. There is a dedicated cycle path down the Somme estuary until we cross to the other bank at the seaside town of ST VALERY SUR SOMME. We have completed the circle now, having first reached the Somme back in June.
Miles to date 4,390
Location:MENIN to ST VALERY
