We had intended to cycle over the Col d'Aubisque but the road is closed due to the unseasonably late snow. So we head in a loop to the north of the snow line, past swollen torrents and roaring weirs. The main road is awash with water so we take a quieter side road, and then an unsurfaced woodland track.
Stopping in Lourdes for our picnic lunch, soaked through to the skin, we shelter under shop awnings then are made very welcome in a cafe for a hot drink. Lourdes is full of tourists, large bland hotels and shops selling water from the shrine.
From here a very welcome smooth cycle path gradually winds up the river valley. The typical local shaggy sheep, each with a tinkling bell, look bedraggled in the flowery meadows.
Argeles-Gazost clings to the steep, forested mountain slopes. Our hotel, aptly named "Beau Site", is tucked away down a steep, cobbled road near the town square.
Marianne (Kirby's daughter) joins us for our 2 night stay here. Evening meal in the restaurant is 5 courses(!) shared with a supported cycle group from England, celebrating their last night and their success at nearing the summit of the Col du Tourmalet. They stopped a little short in the snow and -2 degs., to get a lift back in their van.
Location:Laruns to Argeles Gazost
