Salamanca to Avila...

Salamanca is a magnificent city of ancient sandstone buildings including a prestiguous university, arcaded Plaza Mayor, cathedrals, convents & palaces. The Casa de las Conchas is decorated externally with the Santiago shell motif, & inside has a 2-tier courtyard. We also enjoyed the 2-storey market, with a staggering array of fresh fish & meat. We were very pleased to bump into a couple of touring cyclists (Jennifer & John from London) who we had previously met at Merida & Caceres. They had taken a different route from the latter place, so we were able to swop info. They fly back from the small Salamanca airport at the weekend. A very blustery day with heavy showers, which the local papers say will set the pattern for the next few days.

However, no rain overnight so happily packed up a dry tent & headed E. on easy roads across the level plains towards Avila. We past flooded rivers & then into rolling countryside, very pretty with poplars lining watercourses, friesian milk herds with young calves, & sandstone villages with sturdy churches & single storey cottages. The last 20 miles was transformed with enormous granite rocks littering the landscape, & smaller fields divided by drystone walls. Very reminiscent of Cornwall & Brittany.

Avila is in the book of '1000 places to visit before you die' & we could see why. The view as you approach is incredible. A hilltop town with a complete city wall incorporating 88 towers, reputedly the best medieval city walls in the world. Entering by any of the gates doesn't disappoint. Many of the streets are pedestrianised & cobbled. Handsome plazas set off the cathedral, churches & convents. It all appears most tastefully restored & maintained. The celebrity of Avila is a Saint Theresa, who transformed the local Carmelite Nun's way of life in the 15C, & many public buidings are dedicated to her.

As we know of no campsite nearby, we resort to hotels recommended in 'Lonely Planet' Guide. We're not disappointed by Hotel San Juan in the centre of the old quarter near the colonaded main square. The view from our tiny balcony includes the cathedral & market. Our bicycles are secured in the basement by a very helpful receptionist.

There is a laid back atmosphere here, allowing us to wander into interesting places unchallenged, such as the College of Architecture where we saw their collection of ancient life-size granite pigs, symbolic of the city & area. We also snuck into Saint Theresa's Convent by the tradesman's entrance, & saw the revolving wooden hatch where goods are delivered to the nuns without them being seen by the delivery man!

Moving on tomorrow towards Segovia, & then N.E. from there.