Much of the centre of Zafra is c15thC, including 2 arcaded plazas, 3 convents & numerous churches on cobbled streets. There are storks with chicks nesting on most towers. It is on the N/S Santiago Pilgrims route, so we spotted lots of backpackers & a German cyclist. There is a large bullfighting ring & many bars are full of men only, watching live bullfights from the Sevilla festival on the TV.
On the way north we passed through the innocuous looking town of Almendrolejo, where we glanced into the Town Hall, & found it to have the most wonderful tiled arcaded courtyard & staircases. The staff were very happy to let us wander around admiring their building.
As forecast, it rained in the afternoon as we headed N. to Merida. Fortunately an easy cycle on gentle hills, past orchards planted with alternate rows of olive trees & vines. Merida is on the site of the Roman town of Augustus Emerta, the largest Roman city on the Iberian peninsula. It boasts many fine Roman remains. Our favourites were the 60-arch Roman bridge, Milagros aqueduct (with storks nests) & the Temple of Diana. As well-recommended by Ros & Mike, we camped a few miles to the E. in a very friendly campsite where we met a French-Canadian family of 4, on 2 tandems (with a trailer) - their 1st trip to Europe.
In showers & a welcome tailwind, we set off N. following a straight Roman road to Caceres. We passed 2 castles with storks nesting on the battlements. Red kites soared overhead. Stayed 2 nights at a very posh campsite at Caceres, each pitch having its own bathroom - ours usefully doubling as a secure bikeshed! Caceres is the highlight of the trip so far. The old town centre is a pristinely preserved mixture of Roman & Medieval, palaces, convents, plazas, churches, town walls & entrance gates. The narrow cobbled lanes & flights of granite steps make it virtually car-proof. We have never seen such a large number of historic buildings together in one place, & would recommend it to anyone for a visit. The rain has stopped & we finish a lovely evening in 'El Asador', a traditional tapas bar, eating morcilla (black pudding stew) with iberian hams hanging from the bar walls.
Tomorrow plan to head E. for Trujillo, then afterwards N. into Natural Parque Montfrangue & then Plasencia.
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About Us
- Sus and Mike
- In our retirement, cycling Europe (and elsewhere) before we get too old. This blog now has records of our tours of the UK (2007), Western Europe (2007/8), Australia (2008/9), UK to Hungary (2011), the Celtic Tour (spring 2012) and Pacific West Coast tour (Aug to Nov 2012).