We retrace some of last week's trip from Prague, pausing to pick up emails outside an unsuspecting restaurant in Pribram, then head in a new direction as we pass to the west of Prague. This side too is dominated by colourful blocks of high-rise flats. We lunch in a bus shelter as a sudden shower turns to heavy rain with thunder and lightening. It does not feel safe, being essentially a metal box on top of a hill! Waiting for the rain to clear, we read Ted and Sue's Norwegian trip blog, which we had down loaded earlier - ferries, fjords and magnificent views. Then we bypass the airport to reach the small town of KRALUPY NAD VLATAVOU, where our Warmshower host is Kamil. He is a young man who has treked and cycled the world, fascinating to hear his tales of China and Mongolia in particular. He has a small flat so has arranged for us to stay at his family home instead, where they happily give us the keys whilst they all go off south for a long weekend. Kamil takes us on a wander round town, showing us tomorrow's cycle route and introducing us to a very smokey traditional pub doing a great line in local beer and dumplings.
In the morning we return the keys to Kamil's Granny, who lives in a nearby flat. There are many blocks of Soviet grey flats, but they are gradually being modernised with coloured insulating panelling attached externally.
We have to cross the local river. The first bridge is up 3 flights of narrow metal steps, so we give that a miss. It is alongside large pipes, part of the communal hot water system that many towns still have. The heat losses from these must be excessive. The next bridge is an old metal
road bridge but unfortunately 2 cars have become entangled in the middle and the fire brigade have shut it while they sort it out. We have to take a very busy modern road bridge instead, flattening ourselves against the barriers as a Wide Load passes. After this we are on and off road through farm land, where cabbages and new potatoes are being picked by women in aprons, and ripe pears are falling from roadside trees.
ROUDNICE NAD LABEM is a lovely old town with a massive central cobbled square, and for us it is the start of the River Elbe cycle route. We see the large river barges again; the first time since the Danube. There are quite a number of touring cyclists now we are on an official path. The route is mostly alongside the railway and car free as the river enters a narrow gorge. In some places it is only very rough gravel. We camp in the little riverside village of BRNA, in a waterski club grounds, 30 miles from the border with Germany. The owner tells us he is a former national water-ski champion, and has photos on the walls of himself in action. He and the premises have seen better days, but are fine for 1 night. Anyway, he gives us a free bottle of ice-cold beer, so he was ok by us! The other few tents are all German touring cyclists.
It started to rain as we went to sleep and was still raining when we set off next morning. By the time we reach the border and cross into Germany, it has rained non stop and we are like drowned rats.
The river is still in a narrow gorge so the road is restricted and in 2 places rock chunks the size of elephants have recently fallen from the shear cliff bringing the traffic to single file. There is a lot of deep surface water covering nasty potholes so all in all this is not fun!
We do not have a cycle route map up the Elbe, and although you would think it easy to just follow the river, there are confusing rough tracks and dead ends. There are quite a lot of tourers around so we wait until a very competent looking pair of Germans pass us and follow them. It was a good choice as they take us along a dedicated woodland route, and then onto a ferry. The riverside towns and the cliff formations are very photogenic but it is raining too hard to risk taking out the camera. They wave goodbye at the historic town of PIRNA and we proceed into the suburbs of DRESDEN, by early pm, to book into the first apartment we find. We hang all our gear around to dry and have a long soak in the bath. With our own kitchen we need not venture out again.
Miles to date 2,906
Location:NESTRASOVICE to DRESDEN
