We are dodging roller blade users now rather than Nordic walkers as the main Danube route takes you away from the river to a large town.We don't fancy town traffic so cross the border south into Hungary (our 5th country!), to follow the alternative, with very quiet, flat roads through villages. Now out of the eurozone the exchange rate is 1,000 Hungarian forint = £4. At the first village shop we buy lunch supplies. She does not have a till, but can show us the bill on a calculator. The fields are full of ripened corn and sun flowers. After days of hot sunshine and rising humidity, rain is forecast and catches up with us just after lunch. We dive into a large bus shelter (bikes and all) just in time to avoid a sharp thunder storm.
We notice a camping sign on an ordinary house, as we approach the centre of the large town of GYOR. Pushing our bikes around the side we find a rear garden orchard with small kitchen and shower room. We have the place to ourselves so finish the afternoon drinking pots of tea and lounging on their garden furniture.
We pass through the tidy historic centre the next morning, after which tarmac is reserved for main roads only, villages linked only by unmade dirt tracks. We have to negotiate some busy roads, where signs show horse and carts are not welcome (probably as the poor horses would fall into the huge pot holes).
In villages most folk are wearing track suits, and many are on bikes - no one wears helmets. Storks (always 3 to a nest- parents and a large chick) stare down from the tops of telegraph poles.
We reach the large, mostly empty camp site at sizeable ESTREGOM, and wander round the centre, an impressive castle and large churches, but no life about, only one small restaurant in a hotel - a bit depressing.
Our route to Budapest involves two ferry trips as we have to cross to the north bank where the Danube is squeezed once more onto a bendy, picturesque gorge. The ferry is typical of the many we have seen plying the river, but note the decrepit-looking lifeboat hanging on the left - in poor condition, but also only just big enough for the crew!
Ancient castles look down from many peaks, more decayed than the "disneyfied" ones in Austria, but all the more attractive for that. We have a few kilometres of frighteningly very busy road before the first ferry, but a surprise on the north bank where a lovely, brand new, tarmac stretch of cycle path cuts out a busy road.
Approaching Budapest we have marvellous views of their enormous, gorgeous Baroque Parliament on the Pest side, and the castle and ancient citadel tower above us on the Buda side.
We are booked into the Marriott in a central location, just over the concrete Elizabeth Bridge. A local cyclist confirms the only way on is up a big flight of steps. Enjoying a stroll in the evening through the vibrant restaurant area we come to an older metal bridge which would have been much easier, so will use that on our way out.
Sunday is reserved for a tour of the castle area and the opulent streets of Baroque apartments and embassies. We get our fix of Post Impressionist art at the Fine Art Museum, beside the impressive statutes of Hero's Sq. We the love the city! Fabulous Baroque and Art deco architecture on one bank, medieval castle on the other. Acres of faded, formerly, grand facades, and lively streets of pavement restaurants.
Miles to date 2,046
Location:BRATISLAVA to BUDAPEST
