Families of coots, with tiny red-headed chicks, feed among the waterlilies. Little humpback bridges have old fashioned bikes piled against the black railings. The enormous tower of the central church is leaning dramatically, and some of the narrow brick houses are a bit wonky too. A large street antiques market displays local old blue pottery and coloured tiles.There are even some lampposts with Delft pottery cladding!
On the way back to Leiden we follow some of the North Sea cycle route through the dunes, but gradually get ensnarled in the heavy traffic of The Haag, eventually escaping the throng by going through a large country estate.
We give the bikes a rest on Sunday, to follow the Leiden walking trail. This takes us through the historic centre, from the ancient university (where Einstein was a professor in the 20s) to St Peters Church.
Here the cross keys symbol of the city originates, St Peter's keys to the gates of heaven. The Pilgrim Fathers, who eventually left for America on the Mayflower via Plymouth, came from this city, and other houses were occupied by famous artists, including Rembrandt and Jan Steen.
The canalside cobbled central square was a cattle and sheep Market for centuries, only the 2002 foot and mouth epidemic finally finishing it off. As we walk back to the apartment on Langebrug (long bridge), we pass the tiny local "coffee" shop. Tobacco smokers are having to puff away outside, but cannabis users are allowed to puff their pot inside!
Miles to date 3,945
Location:LEIDEN
