The next morning we soon encounter 10 miles of very rough, forest track, especially tricky over slippy roots. We had wondered why a whole gaggle of cyclists had taken the ferry across to the other side just before this section!
Then we are back to the typical flat dyke path, with thousands of geese and lapwing feeding alongside cattle on the partially flooded meadows.
The weather deteriorates, with driving rain slowing us for the last couple of hours, so it is 7.30 by the time we complete 70 miles and reach HAMBURG. A recumbent cyclist hails us to warn that the cycle track is blocked by roadworks. We ask for directions to a hotel and he points out we are only round the corner from a Holiday Inn. Despite 2 coach loads of excitable Italians and Spaniards booking in just as we arrive, there is room for us, on the 10th floor with a fantastic view northwest down the estuary.
We marvel at the enormous busy docks and the church towers of the old district. Our luck holds as we secure the last table in their restaurant.
The World News channel headlines are shocking pictures of London burning and looted shops.
Free wifi at StarBucks next morning brings a cheery email from Kirby and his photo of "our" cygnets from back home.
Despite the intensive battering of Hamburg in the war there are a surprising number of fine Art Nouveaux office blocks, quaint old bridges and churches. One burnt out church remains as a memorial, as in Plymouth. By the huge statue of Bismarck lots of homeless people are sleeping under a bridge.
The cycle route takes us along the cobbled quay in front of the old Fish Market, restored as a function venue, then past the current Fish Market and little restaurants specialising in caviar and crab. The long estuary side parkland path leads us northwest for miles. The very strong wind on tide is causing floods across lawns and beach, to the edge of the path. Cyclists coming the other way assure us it is passable (just!). The majority of park cafes are boarded up as the very strong winds and rain drive away all their customers - only determined touring cyclists are out in these very unseasonal conditions.
There is a lot to see, though, with huge Chinese freighters pulled along by tugs, water taxis battling the waves past a striped lighthouse, and in dock 'The World' cruise liner.
We have to cross a wide canal near Kronsnest or there will be a 20 mile detour. Our map shows a ferry but there is no sign of it! A farming granny confirms it no longer exists but we can cross a swing bridge 5 miles away. The only trouble is it can only be crossed at certain times of the day, and she doesn't know when. We pass through 2 seriously engineered dykes to find the bridge in our favour but a closed red gate. With relief we open the gate and the control tower let us through. We had not seen another soul on this route so had not been hopeful. Now we reach the Elbe estuary car ferry at GLUCKSTADT. There are some benefits to being on a bike as we cycle to the front of a very long vehicle queue to get straight on. At least 50 of the cars we passed will have to wait for the next ferry. The estuary is very wide and choppy here with a strong wind blowing from the north sea. On the other side another dyke cycle path is blissfully free of cars but into a relentless head wind and showers. We give up at OTTERNDORF (the village of otters), just short of the coast, as the rain becomes torrential.
Next morning, under threatening skies and drizzle, we reach CUXHAVEN at the North Sea. There are many windfarms here, so blowy must be the norm. Sorry for the lack of photos but this is not the weather for getting out the phone!
Miles to date 3,480
Location:BOIZENBURG to CUXHAVEN
